Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK Guys Im a Subaru RS driver and have been saving for my dream car, the GTR32.

I live on the east side of melbourne and am hoping that a generous GTR owner can take me for a drive to reassure me that they really are my dream car.

Id be happy to pay (say a $20) for someone to take me for a quick drive and give me a quick run down on what I should be looking out for when I go to buy one.

No Im not going to ask for a drive or carjack you I just want 20 minutes with someone who knows there sh1t.

Call me 0403 894438

or email me [email protected]

or PM me

Thanks

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325883-wanted-joyride-in-eastside-gtr-paid/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No one is going to be cheap enough to chase after your $20, no offence...just come along to a meet and ask someone nicely, people are almost always happy to show off their vehicles to other people.

Forget a R32 GTR! Get a 33 or a 34!

Thats the best thing youve said all day el presidente.

For the cost difference...a 33 is far more worth it...newer, dumps etc are stronger and dont need to be replaced...and all for like 3 grand more than a 32.

Get whatever you want! Just make sure if you get one of the older ones you have the $$$ to maintain it... not that people really want to prepare for that when they are thinking of getting a GTR. But I love my R34 because there's 50 thou k's on the clock and I know it's never going to do anything unexpected.

But I love my R34 because there's 50 thou k's on the clock and I know it's never going to do anything unexpected.

LOL. A very naive comment. Firstly, a lot of grey imports have had their clocks spun. Secondly, I had an R34 and ruined a gearbox. A very costly experience. FYI - I bought a 34 as they were the newest and I hoped for a trouble-free ownership... not to be. Still wish I had one tho.

LOL. A very naive comment. Firstly, a lot of grey imports have had their clocks spun. Secondly, I had an R34 and ruined a gearbox. A very costly experience. FYI - I bought a 34 as they were the newest and I hoped for a trouble-free ownership... not to be. Still wish I had one tho.

I suspected someone would say that. I said on the clock. It would have definitely have been wound back, as we can assume that most imports are. The reason why I used this measurement is because it's relative. If you know how to read a motor then you will be able to work out the approximate k's without looking at the clock. Sucks about the gear box though, fortunately I haven't had any problems with mine yet.

I suspected someone would say that. I said on the clock. It would have definitely have been wound back, as we can assume that most imports are. The reason why I used this measurement is because it's relative. If you know how to read a motor then you will be able to work out the approximate k's without looking at the clock. Sucks about the gear box though, fortunately I haven't had any problems with mine yet.

*touch wood*

you dont want to jinx yourself.

Thats the best thing youve said all day el presidente.

For the cost difference...a 33 is far more worth it...newer, dumps etc are stronger and dont need to be replaced...and all for like 3 grand more than a 32.

True

lol, sounds like Skylines have a pretty bad reputation! I thought Nissan made reliable cars??

performance cars wear. The stress they're place under due solely to their nature makes parts wear quicker than say... A pulsar. Depends how u treat ur car. If u fang it... It's gonna wear out quicker.

A gtr wears even quicker again :bunny: only replacement parts are more expensive :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...