Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I saw this kit a while ago but what put me off was that you need to have the assembly balanced so more than just a bit of DIY is involved.

There is someone on the who is selling rebuilt stell wheel turbos for about $1250 exchange which also seemed reasonable.

I ended up buying some new Garretts but those guys on ebay had some good feedback. Let us know how it all goes. Would be very interested to find out results.

If it's too good to be true - It probably is.

Stay WELL clear of that.

Add to the fact you cannot just "bolt" it together. To be done properly you would need to have it balanced and so on adding on additional costs.

Meaning you might as well pay somewhere more reasonable to do it.

Add to the fact R32 N1's are horribly laggy turbos for bugger all power.

makes me laugh sometimes.... has anyone here actually rebuilt a turbo in their backyard without balancing and actually testing?

Balancing is overated.. whats the worste thats going to happen?

Try it. I have. One turbo i did is still alive on the car 6 years later. No balancing done at all.

makes me laugh sometimes.... has anyone here actually rebuilt a turbo in their backyard without balancing and actually testing?

Well I don't have any experience, but this is the interwebz so that wont stop me from shooting my mouth off.

Balancing is overated.. whats the worste thats going to happen?

Bearings chew out quickly and turbo dies

Try it. I have. One turbo i did is still alive on the car 6 years later. No balancing done at all.

Sample size of one is statistically meaningless. The balancing process can merely involve verification and no actual modification.

Well your call but for the effort to R&R turbos on an RB26 I'd be using ball bearing bolt on ones . The reasons being that they are more reliable and longer lasting - often the wheels in them are later aero tech too . Don't forget with R32 GTRs Nissan was doing their R&D back in about 1988 and a LOT of water has been under the bridge turbo wise since then .

Yes the old N1's were really laggy and only seemed to work with the boost screwed right up .

Then when the old bush/plate thrust bearings lunch themselves , all that work and money to spend again .

Really I think the OE R34 BB turbos should be seen as a practical base line .

You time money patience , cheers A .

First of these are just steel wheels for the stock turbos, doesnt make them N1s.Second if the bearings already lasted almost 20 yrs whats to say new ones wont? So these will just be stock turbos with steel wheels which should spool the same and will have 360* thrust bearings and i also have a divided TT pipe to decrease spool time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...