Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys did a little searching and heaps of reading, but just want to know where is a good place to get my m35 serviced, i live in the northern beaches area but dont mind driving for the peace of mind it will be done properly.

I do the minor stuff myself I.E fluids, filters, belts, brakes etc.. but i wouldnt mind knowing a workshop that is familar with this model for plus would like to be getting the book stamped for resale purposes.

thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329397-need-some-advice-for-servicing-m35/
Share on other sites

Personally, do it yourself! that way you always know its done well!

Otherwise i would go to Envy imports or Good Spanner on the northern beaches. Im not sure if Northshore prestige service, but I have heard good things about them too. They know their M35s

thanks for the reply.. i do want to do most of it myself, but the stuff i cant i want someone who knows the car model rather then charging me heaps in labour cost while they are researching how to work on it.

Im new to nissans i have crossed over from many a toyota 4AGE.

can vouch for Northshore Prestige for servicing. They have been very helpful with my car.

Nissan Brookavle parts are also very good for any parts. Just tell them your VIN and that it is an import and they will find the part number for you and order it in. Always been really good to me.

Cheers

Andy

+1 for servicing yourself.....It's an easy job and you can use all the premium product's and still have a lot of change in you pocket.

P.S You can also ask me every now and again to get you prices on Genuine NISSAN products....I'll try to beet what you are paying....please keep it down to the larger more expensive things and I should be able to beat the price's given.....OH and PM me because I am not a trader more of a Nissan associate ;) .

when ordering parts from me I will need the part number

If only i was good with engines and mechanics, atm i look at my engine and am totally confused. its just as bad as looking at a japanese manual lol...

all i am trained in is metal fabrication. so most of the shit on the car i can make (exhausts, piping, brackets) but like i said, im shyt at engine stuff so i can only stick to basic things. its so frustrating. alot of ppl know the mechanical thigns but cant fabricate. but im the opposite lol. just a never ending challenge trying to be someone who can do both lol

lol when we start having meets, maybe someone who is good can give us lil tutorials?

or someone maybe someone is generous enough to do a m35 service tutorial!

As I am on a 5 year warranty with mine I get all my servicing done at Hornsby Nissan.

So far no hassles, they should know the car well because I've had 4 services done there so far :D

thanks guys i do enjoy(well most of the time) working on the car, as i said i can do all the regular service things, brakes, fluids, belts etc. and when it comes to the more difficult stuff i dont mind having a go rebuilding internals and so on. however since im not a mechanic that doesnt get me any receipts, so like all my other cars the resale can be up the shit coz wheres the proof.

But i think i will just keep going with the simple things and take it to northshore prestige or goodspanner for the bigger things (which i hope is not for a long time.)

did the oil yesterday. gotta do the brakepads, rotors, gearbox fluid next weekend

i was more talking about changing the plugs... looks like its going to be a f**kin pain!

That's the least of your problems. :D

I swear every part of the car was designed and engineered to be a pain in the ass to repair (or modify)

Thanks again for the replies.. The plugs can't be as of a pain as my j31 maxima that was a

real pain replacing the plugs..

Pretty much the same.

J31 has a VQ35de, so the plugs are in the same position as our cars, it is just that the oversized J31 plenum is in the way of everything and can be an annoyance to remove.

Plus the j31 is fwd which just made matters worse removing the plenum near the firewall.. And the bolts are always so bloody tight!! Anyway gonna do the rotors and pads soon prob next weekend am I right in saying the rears are xtrail and fronts are maxima?? But what year??

Plus the j31 is fwd which just made matters worse removing the plenum near the firewall.. And the bolts are always so bloody tight!! Anyway gonna do the rotors and pads soon prob next weekend am I right in saying the rears are xtrail and fronts are maxima?? But what year??

You are correct in saying that... or you could just ask for pads & rotors for a 350z (non-brembo of course)

Ok will do that 350z touring they don't up the price coz it's a performance car do they?? They just go off the part number?? And what are ppl experiences with brands I was just gonna go DBA rotors coz I can get cost price!! And I was gonna start researching pads now!!

Ok will do that 350z touring they don't up the price coz it's a performance car do they?? They just go off the part number?? And what are ppl experiences with brands I was just gonna go DBA rotors coz I can get cost price!! And I was gonna start researching pads now!!

Hey buddy pal, how you going mate?? :(

I could be investing a bit of money in DBA at some point :P to the tune of 2 x 14" & 2 x 13.8" 5000 series slotted's :mad:

Ok will do that 350z touring they don't up the price coz it's a performance car do they?? They just go off the part number?? And what are ppl experiences with brands I was just gonna go DBA rotors coz I can get cost price!! And I was gonna start researching pads now!!

I am using Hawk pads and they are very good, low dust and great performance with little fade. But I do have R32 calipers and rotors.

Have a spare set of front pads if anyone is interested.

Cheers

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...