Jump to content
SAU Community

Any1 Instald Gas Injection, Wat R Pros & Cons Please

RS444

By RS444,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

got mine LiLPG setup on my 03.. love it. $4700 - $1500 from the rebate. took a week to install.. went from approx 14L per 100 to 17L per 100.. power gains of about 10%.. (would be much better with a tune) i run factory ECU.. and dump pipe thats it.. and runs even better on pure propane. :)

got it installed at Seaview Gas Conversions in frankston VIC.

only negatives is only 300k's out of the tank.. and i have to wait about 30 seconds before nailing it after starting the car up :) dont want to put your foot down to far on petrol as gas is colder temp and higher octane petrol will ping pretty badly.

Shouldn't you be waiting until the car is warmed up anyway?

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Shouldn't you be waiting until the car is warmed up anyway?

some people are saying that when you start the car 30 second idle is fine, then you can drive it.

I dont know why but i was always under the impression that the car should be at operating temps before driving it..

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

some people are saying that when you start the car 30 second idle is fine, then you can drive it.

I dont know why but i was always under the impression that the car should be at operating temps before driving it..

Yeah, that give the oil time to thoroughly lube the engine.

I quoted the "wait about 30 seconds before nailing it after starting the car up"

IMO, you shouldn't really nail it before it is up to temp.

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

modern engines are fine to drive from starting. they warm up better actually running and not idling.

however hammering them before oil is fully up to temp is a BAD idea. 10-15 mins of normal driving before i even go over 3000rpm

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

modern engines are fine to drive from starting. they warm up better actually running and not idling.

however hammering them before oil is fully up to temp is a BAD idea. 10-15 mins of normal driving before i even go over 3000rpm

yeh thats what I was told..

i dont gun it usually until i see atleast 80c on the informeter..

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

yeah short drives are the worst thing for a car. the engine never warms up properly.

take it for a long drive every few weeks. get the engine up to temp for an hour, it will keep the carbon deposits down as the constant heat will burn it off

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

thats water temp, oil takes longer to warm up

The oil takes about twice as long as the water to warm up, around 2-3 minutes by my informeter.

Oh, and ethanol would be much better at cleaning carbon deposits than gas. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Predator1
      Tomei gasket

      By Predator1 · Posted

      Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...