Removing The Head From Rb25

[chef_stagea]

so gota rip the head off tomorrow...

any last min advice people??

i no i need to do the following..

remove turbo

timing belt (and all the bits req to do so)

split the intake manifold in 2... are these gaskets like the turbo side ones? easy to pull off? or will they need replacing?)

remove aac

remove crossover pipe, coilpack look etc etc

intake cam wheel

any other tricks anyones got?? anything to be careful of?

what should i use to clean off the tips of the pistons? some one said brake cleaner, as its harsh and evaporates quickly.

and to put it back togeather, just set all 3 markers up and drop it on?

while shes off i want to do a few bits and peices aswell... port and polish... is it really worth doing cams? and any thing eles?

ive been quoted 1400 :S for port and polish, all new valves and guides?? bit steep? i need to remove/refit too!

thanx guys!

[rb30dett]

Don't forget the little bolt on the back of the head

[M I K E]

replace the intake side gaskets

[-RBD2-]

Patience....

[KiwiRS4T]

Port and polish is necessary for a n/a engine or for the very top hp engine - save your money for the turbo and just turn up the boost.

[chef_stagea]

Port and polish is necessary for a n/a engine or for the very top hp engine - save your money for the turbo and just turn up the boost.

kiwi ive put a hks 2535 on... u dont rekn its worth port and polishing???

rodders... where can i get a can of that stuff from?? bull at a gate FTW!

[chef_stagea]

any of you adelaide boys that want to come round sunday to give me a hand along with a few others, would be fantastic!! ive msgd a few of ya already

[pork hunt drifting]

I would five ya a hand but I'll be trying to get mine back together. Sell ya 2535 forget the port n polish and buy a 3076 for 2g. Depending on how much other cash u gota spend first.

[Stagea_Neo]

ditto on patience.

I've only done this on an R31 single cam 3.0l & VC blue 202 3.3 single cam.

Got the workshop manual?

- You will need to check the torque settings when putting it all back together and

bolt back up in the correct sequence and nm.

- Probably want to to take of the rocker covers off in a week and re-check the head bolts for

correct nm.

-just put my head under the bonnet, looks like you could take the turbo and turbo/exhaust manifold

off as one piece, once all the heat shielding and other pipes/crap is cleared out of the way.

Unbolt the rear of the turbo where it attaches to the exhaust pipe.

- get a good torque wrench.

- get a fine scrapper for cleaning of gaskets where needed. (be very very gentle, don't want gouges!)

- 600 or 1200 grit sand paper to clean of remaining gaskets. (be very gentle don't want uneven surfaces)

- may not need to replace the inlet exhaust gasket sometimes they are not baked on like

head and exhaust gaskets.

But probably best to go buy all of em before staring the job just in case, if you don't use some

you always have a spare(s).

- just some petrol on a rag for cleaning or metho.

And if ya brave after job done have a shot of metho

Edited August 9, 2010 by Stagea_Neo

[Big Jim]

i have done lots of heads and the best way is to leave all the manifolds on untill you get it on to the bench

dont forget to put the motor to top dead center before you start taking the timing belt off

should only take about three hours with basic hand tools to remove the head

you should find out if the head bolts are touque to yield if so you will need new bolts

[chef_stagea]

hi all..

so pulled fair bita stuff out today...

currently the engines stripped down... no turbo, injector stuff, intake mani, timing belt..

had a quick look under the rockers (weather started to turn)...

from here what do i need to do??

-take the cam wheels off... (wheres this bolt every1 talks about?? at 1 and 7 oclock?0

-undo the U shapped things holding the cams in? is shit going to spring out or anything?

- do i need to drop the oil?

-the allen keys in the spark plug valley, these are going to come out yeah??

-and could only see the odd allan key under the rocker cover... no bolts n stuff?

to put it all back together... i just set my 3 markers up and drop the head on yeh?

is there any way to clean up inside while in there?? i just put fresh oil in it when i did the belt the 1st time... but in the rockers theres fair bit of ugly stuff...

thanx all

[GoldZilla]

I'm guessing with the RB, but with most cars you don't have to remove any of the stuff in the head to get it off. Leave the cams in, no need to undo the "u-shaped things" holding them in.

The allen key bolts *might* be the bolts holding the head in. Once again, it's different between different cars and engines - some use regular (but high tensile) bolts with standard head, some use allen keys.

Drop the oil and replace it when you're done. You do not want to find out too late that there are ANY fragments of metal floating around your engine. Better to be safe than sorry.

[RubyRS4]

I'm guessing with the RB, but with most cars you don't have to remove any of the stuff in the head to get it off. Leave the cams in, no need to undo the "u-shaped things" holding them in.

Adam, you will have bent valves, so the cams do need to come out. Simply undo the u-shaped caps little by little and evenly across the length of the camshaft. Cam gears do not need to come off. Once the head is off and cams out, pour fuel/turps or other thin liquid to see where your leak is, if its not obvious by visual inspection. When you know the valves that are bent, mark them so the cylinder head guy/mechanic will know which valves and guides to change.

I have a valve removal tool you can borrow if you want to remove the other valves also (and/or remove the bent ones and replace yourself), and clean the carbon build up from them.

Or bring the whole head to me, I can remove the cams, and I'll see what can be done to tidy up/fix the head/valves (at whatever cost). I could remove the cams, identify the bent valves, check those guides, get new valves, get head faced (no porting) and possible valve guide replace, remove and clean all remaining valves, insert all valves, seat them in place, reinstall cams and torque caps accordingly. I've disassembled many, many heads over the years.

EDIT: I'm in Perth from Friday to Monday, so unavailable then.

[GoldZilla]

LOL, I should have been more specific in saying that to remove the head you don't have to undo the caps. You will have to remove them later to get to the valves, as Ruby has said.

[chef_stagea]

ok...sounds good guys thanx.

but i do believe my cams will need to come out... as engine isnt at TDC... so cams are going to get in the way i think...

ill undo the u shapped bolts... then go from there...

goldzilla i changed the oil while doing the timing belt round 1... so the oil in there hasnt been used yet... is it still a good idea or just leave it?

ive braught a new head (60ks old) so im just going to take that up to lewis engines and let them do there thing with it

do i NEED to face/machine the head b4 re install? if its just a might as while its there then i will i spose

braught new exhaust and intake gaskets today... with the 2 manifold bolt ons.. do i do the same as head (tighten up from outside in?)

and with any of the 3 (head and 2 mani's) do i need to get all bolts to bight. then go back outside in with more pressure, then back again for more? or just fully do them up the once??

worthy of changing any studs bolts etc etc while shes apart?

thanx guys

[chef_stagea]

ok so i today i had a chance to start to get the head off

so far ive taken out the 10mm hex key bolts in with the cam shaft...

now there the 3 prick 10mms to go...

i believe i have taken one off... its turbo water line, bracket, with a 1 inch or so bolt... is this one of them?? or do i need to go deeper?

theres one nere the intake cam... does the cam wheel need to come off to get to it??... if yes, can you take the cam wheel off without taking the whole cam out... the bolts seem to be on the inside, unlike the exhaust wheel,

and where the feck is the 3rd one at 11 oclock???

head doesnt seem to be NEAR loose yet i do have a bit of weapage of oil where its going to split,,, this means there oil there,,, but is the head gasket higher then the oil level? (im hoping this is just excess around the engine oozing out.

this is a pic of an rb30, with the bolts im talking about...

[chef_stagea]

Ok so heads off... Piston 2 is gouged real bad, how can I tell if the boar is gone too?? It looks good but not sure by eye I spose. 2 intake valves were snapped off and have been smashing round. To get the piston out. Just go threw re sump upwards... Any tricks, do's do nots??

I'll need 1 piston, I'll need to do all 6 to keep it even yeah?? How can I clean up while I'm in here!?

Thanx boys

[MANWHORE]

Chef I feel for ya man. You musta been spewin, taking out that old gates kit that had just been done and then this happens......

[darrinspencer]

I know you have already bought another head, but you might be better off getting a complete long motor so you do not find any other nasty surprises

It will have to be a stagea AWD motor, not a R34 donor as the blocks are different to suit the sump.

If the head is already off, it will be pretty simple and quicker to remove the short motor now than trying to replace a piston from below.

[chef_stagea]

I know you have already bought another head, but you might be better off getting a complete long motor so you do not find any other nasty surprises

It will have to be a stagea AWD motor, not a R34 donor as the blocks are different to suit the sump.

If the head is already off, it will be pretty simple and quicker to remove the short motor now than trying to replace a piston from below.

thanx darrin i just posted up about this issue...

where am i going to get one tho .... its an easy swap over for the head ive braught/getting ported and polished? or do they need to be matched up or something

pics of the current setup!