Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Hi Guys.....the translation has been a great help...cheers.

I have managed to get my phone paired with the Bluetooth in the car, but can seem to transfer my phone contacts! Can this be done?

Tnx...

  • 2 months later...

The short answer, garryg, is that it depends on your handset's ability to send contacts via Bluetooth.

If it's an iPhone, then the answer is a resounding "no". Apple suck for some of the choices they make and this is definitely one of those choices. In short, Apple don't support a transfer protocol. Apple have chosen to support a different Bluetooth protocol which only allows the phone book to be read but not copied from. It has been a painful year receiving calls in this vehicle and not being able to recognise all the numbers that come in. It's even worse when I need to dial out. It's neither feasible nor safe while driving. I hope Satan is shoving a few pineapples per day up Steve Jobs' arse for this.

Today, I upgraded my phone to a Samsung Note2 and exporting from this phone is a little cumbersome if you've got a whole bunch of accounts in it (i.e. Facebook, Google, Google+, etc). Nevertheless, it is definitely possible and works very well.

There is one quirk though. You must ensure your phone numbers are not prefixed with a "+61" (i.e. E164 international standard). The number must be entered as a local entry (so, 04xxxxxxxx or in the case of landlines, 02xxxxxxxx, etc). The reason for this is the handsfree kit interprets it as an international call and replaces the "+" with a "011" rather than just sending the "+" to the handset, rendering the number dialled a wrong one. Why the engineers chose to do this is beyond me but it is what it is. Nevertheless, I'm happy that I've actually got speed dials for a change, let alone an entire phone book.

So, here's the how-to on transferring contacts using an Android phone (Jellybean OS - not sure what the older OS's look like). If you have anything else, such as an old Nokia, you'll need to check your manual on how to export via Bluetooth on those. My old N85 can definitely do it as well though it has its own quirks when sending numbers in bulk.

Following the screenshots in the translated document:

1) Press the Settings button on your keypad

2) Navigate to Phone (Option 5 - first item in the second column)

3) Navigate to Directory (second item in the menu)

4) Select first option in this Directory submenu.

5) On the pop-up screen, select the left button which I'm guessing is the "OK/YES" button.

6) Another screen will pop-up with your V36's Bluetooth ID and a series of instructions. Leave this up and now pick up your phone.

7) At your phone's main contacts list, press the menu button and choose "Import/Export"

8) At the bottom of the menu (you may need to scroll to find it), select "Share namecard via"

9) Your contacts list will re-emerge with a series of tickboxes to the left. You can select all and then deselect the ones you don't want or just select the few you do want.

10) Once you have selected them, tap the "Done" button at the top right.

11) Another pop-up screen will appear asking the method to transfer with. Select "Bluetooth" and then tap "Just Once". This will ensure that Bluetooth will not be used as the default means of transferring contacts in future, in case you have another import/export requirement not involving Bluetooth. If you happen to tap the "Always" button, it's fine. You can reset this option in another menu anyway.

12) Then you should see a little transfer screen appear on your V36 display. It takes approximately 30 seconds to transfer about 300 numbers.

DONE! You've now transferred your numbers.

To create and edit speed dials:

1) Press the Settings button on your keypad

2) Navigate to Phone (Option 5 - first item in the second column)

3) Navigate to Speed Dials (first item in the menu)

4) Select the speed dial slot you wish to create/edit

5) Select the second item in the submenu (there should be about 6 options in that submenu)

6) Select the first item in the next submenu (there should be 3 options in that submenu)

7) Select the only item in the next submenu (all but 1 of the 11 options will be greyed out in that submenu)

8) A list of all your transferred numbers will appear, in phone number order. This is an unfortunate quirk but in the grand scheme of things, no big deal either.

9) Find your desired number and select it.

DONE! Repeat steps 4-9 for the remaining speed dial slots you wish to configure.

There is one warning I have for you though. You cannot update the phone directory with just one number in future. You must transfer the entire phone directory from your handset again otherwise you will only have the one number in your V36's phone book. The positive thing about this is that speed dials remain unaffected, even with the phone book completely erased.

I'm working purely off memory as I did this a little earlier today. I'm pretty sure I've got it down correctly but if not, let me know and I'll revise my post after I triple check with my vehicle again.

Edited by The Max

I should add another little discovery I made today. Only your first 15 speed dials can be scrolled through and selected while driving. From speed dial 16 onwards, it's greyed out when you're in motion. I'm guessing that's more of a bug than a feature, considering my DVD player allows videos to be viewable while I'm driving!

Therefore, save your most important/regular numbers to dial in the first 15 slots as the others will only be available when you're stopped at the lights.

You're a legend Max. I have been meaning to spend some time going through and figuring this out for a looong time now. Your instructions above will definitely save me some time.

One question.....I read somewhere (probably myg37.com) that you can only transfer about 50 or so contacts. Above you mention 300 contacts, have you confirmed that all 300+ work?

All 278 are listed in my directory. Not sure what the limit is but I certainly didn't reach it with my phone book.

The limit you're referring to is probably the speed dials, in which case we only have 40 slots available for that. So, choose your first 15 wisely and then choose your remaining 25 carefully.

  • 6 months later...

I have a 2010 GTP and (as it is a genuine facelift model) the translation doesn't even come close to matching what I see.

Does anyone have any info on the newer model?

As this is my first post, let me say thanks for such a great forum.

Welcome Toecutter.

So not even the Kanji characters themselves bear any resemblance? I'm hoping they've used similar Japanese wording even though the menu items order may not be the same. See if you can find some common characters which may help.

The Max...thanks.

Some appear the similar but this model has significantly more choices.

Some menu choices give you eight menu choices and then the next level down gives you 47!

A few more features methinks?

I know there are only three or four buttons that will work in Oz but I have found some of the NAV stuff does too. Just that the Latitude is reversed.

If I work anything out I'll be happy to post it here.

Well there are a lot of similarities in the menu's....just some in different spots and some extra's.

I have a basic draft of the SETTINGS button, and the MAINTENANCE choices seem to be the same.

The Music Box menu has been enlarged. I will post resiluts when completed.

(Now all I have to do is work out how to disabled that damn speed limiter!!!!!)

  • 2 weeks later...

Use an app called Camdictionary on android. It will translate japanese to english by aiming the camera at the v36's screen. I used it to translate error messages I was getting, oil filter and oil change.

I took a look at the app. The fact that it wants access to my phone and contacts seems unusual for something that's just meant to be using the camera, data (perhaps) and not much else. I'll stay away from it.

Strange, version 2.1.0 permissions are Net comms (google add service), storage, phone calls (read status) System (usb storage, prevent sleep) Hardware (vibration disable)

Exactly my point. Why does a camera-based app need access to phone call status? At any rate, I'll steer clear of it myself.

read status is usually for save state, initiates minimize and app pause prior to phone ring. Android 4.0 and below it can forward txt of your IMEI.

Anyway, there's a number of other apps that work similar, google have their own official which works alright.

Hey has anybody managed to translate what the little Japanese girl living in the dash sometimes says?

She has a lovely chat with me some days when I start the car, and i'd love to know WTF she is on about :lol:

  • 3 weeks later...

She says Ohayo (Good morning) before 12pm, Konichiwa (Good arvo) from 12pm to 5pm and kombawa after 5pm (Good evening) and what she says after these is simply "please have a safe drive", she is very polite and never forgets to greet me :D

Thanks AsM

But my girl seems to talk a lot more than just "have a safe drive".

Maybe it is like the old [dubbed] Japanese movies where the mouth moves for 30 seconds and the sound track says "No"???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...