Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

People get far too caught up in whole "turbos make more horsepower" factor. Torque is loads more fun IMO. Peak power produced is only one side of things. I think of turbos as kid of the same as a big cam. You need to use lots of revs to get the power out of them. With my blower the instant boost quickly smooths out the big (blower friendly grind) cam I also run. I can waste turbo cars out of the hole at the drags. But at the other end they start to pull me in.

most poeple shun blowers cos unless they shell out moonbeams for a kit, it's not bolt on and go.

Given the screw blower my CA is getting can support 2.2 bar, but the time an equivelent turbo has spooled up I'll be a spec on the horizon.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey the thread title says "for motorsport". My comment stands, turbos for motorsport. Unless improperly sized a turbo will be very effective

For OEM use either tiny turbos or a supercharger are the way to go for sure. no-one likes a factory car with lag.

Aftermarket use is totally different again and depends on your goals.

Having built plenty of supercharged falcon/commodores, i dont really rate them. A centrifical blower has a boost curve that goes up linearly, the more you rev it the more boost. Unfortunately that means if you want 15psi at 7500, you have to gear it then live with 10psi at 5000, which means you are close to 100rwkw behind a similarly sized tuebo setup at those revs.

Centrifugal blowers got you out of the hole, but are horribly inefficient, power hungry and once again if you want top end you need a blower the size of the slab of beer your wife drinks nightly.

To me the question isn't supercharge V's turbocharge, it's what's wrong with today's motor engineers that they can't sort out a reliable high performance engine driven turbocharger.

They've been around in very large HP applications forever, but I've never seen the technology transferred to the auto industry.

This VW monstrosity could have been done so much better/easier/simpler with an engine driven turbo.

http://www.greencarcongress.com/2005/08/inside_vws_new_.html

On the topic of supercharger versus turbocharger efficiency, there is some misleading information here...remember that off boost a turbocharger is very restrictive to engine breathing and the engine is operating at low compression (therefore wasting combustion) for 1/3 of the rev range, where we spend most of our time driving. The only time they can be considered efficient is when they are on boost. And even then, they are considered thermodynamically inefficient despite producing lots of power. So a supercharger isn't the only one that is wasting/draining energy on the constant, and the exhaust side of things is never restricted. In fact, in the lower rev ranges it is more efficient than a turbocharger.

You need to think of the comparison as linear versus non linear power production. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

^^ agree, in the sense that turbos don't give you "free energy" by harvesting exhaust gases. you do have a penalty and that penalty is in the form of backpressure.. turbos require pressure in the exhaust manifold in order to spin and do work. that pressure pushes against the piston on its exhaust stroke and "restricts" the engine. the plus side is you are cramming a whole bunch more air in the intake side so it is a net gain. but it is not "free" power. and yes, when turbo is off boost you have a nice restriction in your exhaust. however, it's likely the restriction is less loading on the engine than a mechanical supercharger.

i think a blown engine would need just as low compression for a certain boost level, would it not?

That depends how much boost it is running and the type of fuel it uses. The temperatures of induction produced by superchargers are typically lower than their turbocharger counterparts, so you can get away with higher compression and no intercooler. That said, yes - from factory, supercharged engines usually do come with low compression. But keep in mind that the supercharger (atleast a roots type) is producing boost from idle onwards so you don't really feel the effects of running low compression. Therefore no feeling of lag and boost (they technically lag for the whole rev range, you just don't notice this because there isn't a big non-linear change of torque like with a turbocharger). The supercharged V6 Commodores of the 90's were as fast as their V8 counterparts off the line, due to similar low down torque, but lost out above 80km/h.

But keep in mind that the supercharger (atleast a roots type) is producing boost from idle onwards so you don't really feel the effects of running low compression.

That's the big benefit - they feel like a bigger engine without the weight penalty.

doesn't seem to be any bolt on supercharger kits for the supra/skylines, especially for the NA boys, could be a route with less headaches, although not necessarily costing less.

NA-S?

That said, if there was a supercharger kit for the NA supra, i might even consider getting another supra, as a fun daily.

if only.

Edited by xALmoN

Would be such a waste when there is already a forced induction model of that car available for cheaper.

The only cars I would ever aftermarket turbocharge/supercharge are cars that never came with it from factory. It almost ALWAYS ends up costing more than the factory version. Tthe only exception I can think of is a VL turbo because those factory cars holding their value in a way that defies the laws of depreciation.

you can't make the same power. theres a point where the supercharger has peaked the turbo will keep going.

they won't fit in a lot of engine bays.

Twin charging is awesome if you can be bothered tuning with many hiccups.

the only advantage is in an engine such as an ls1. where turbo chargers melt the damned thing.

torque sucks you hit your peak then get overtaken.

it's only for initial take off.

I'd like to hear from someone who went from turbo to supercharger on the same engine.

If you're setting up a car for street acceleration, roots superchargers are pretty good...by the time you run out of torque you've already passed the speed limit on most roads.

Bottom line, they both have advantages/disadvantages...but OP was referring to motorsport. In which case, track based motorsport tends to favour the turbocharger and drag racing favours the supercharger. Not because one is necessarily better than the other, but because one is generally better suited to that application.

if you really want an argument stop calling it lag and start talking about boost threshold

this is like the 2nd time i've seen someone on here who actually made note of the difference, good work

face palm at how some people dont realise how closely horse power and torque are related .

now i'm really starting to like you :)

^^ agree, in the sense that turbos don't give you "free energy" by harvesting exhaust gases. you do have a penalty and that penalty is in the form of backpressure.. turbos require pressure in the exhaust manifold in order to spin and do work. that pressure pushes against the piston on its exhaust stroke and "restricts" the engine.

its more commonly reffered to as 'pumping losses' and turbos still have the same issue, those its less noticeable then with a supercharger

i think a blown engine would need just as low compression for a certain boost level, would it not?

not necesarily. superchargers have one big advantage of being able to run large diamter extractors to an open exhaust , as opposed to a turbo manifold+turbo combo, extractors and open pipes get more heat out of the cylender easier (thats the theory anyway lol)

On the topic of supercharger versus turbocharger efficiency, there is some misleading information here...remember that off boost a turbocharger is very restrictive to engine breathing and the engine is operating at low compression (therefore wasting combustion) for 1/3 of the rev range, where we spend most of our time driving. The only time they can be considered efficient is when they are on boost. And even then, they are considered thermodynamically inefficient despite producing lots of power. So a supercharger isn't the only one that is wasting/draining energy on the constant, and the exhaust side of things is never restricted. In fact, in the lower rev ranges it is more efficient than a turbocharger.

You need to think of the comparison as linear versus non linear power production. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

but overall, turbo is more efficient.

vast majority of the worlds trucking fleets run, turbo diesels. there's now even more small cars with turbo diesels for that extra efficiency.

Edited by Peter89

bmw has said for years that turbochargers are the way of the future. for all applications where the extra force required to pump the air through the turbine is less than what is required for the supercharger, the turbo will be more efficient at generating power (fuel wise at least).

the mercedes mclaren slr needs 120 hp to power its supercharger!!! thats more than my lil bros camry makes hahaha

on the racing front, remember the most powerful f1 engines ever were the 1.5L turbo ones, producing 1500hp!!! pretty epic huh

also a supercharger can only spin at 1/3 the speed a turbo can.

they should be rebuilt every 100k whether damaged or not. cost more, yet less complicated too install. if there's room.

can drain upto 20% of the engines overall power to run.

yet add around 30-75% say 50% for most.

http://www.ehow.com/facts_5752326_turbo-vs...onsumption.html

I honestly don't like the whine of large ones often hear it over a noisy v8.

roots last longer yet aren't as efficient as a twin screw.

centrifugal is great on a standard car if you want low boost.

for some reason i want to put one on a n/a 4 cylinder.

but overall, turbo is more efficient.

vast majority of the worlds trucking fleets run, turbo diesels. there's now even more small cars with turbo diesels for that extra efficiency.

That's cause turbos work better with diesels. They don't rev high (as per a longer stroke than petrol engines) and this would severely limited boost in a supercharger application. Turbo lag is also much less noticeable on a turbo diesel because they are high compression engines - in fact, the turbocharger is solely there to extend the useable range of the diesel engine in the middle and upper RPM (they run out of steam very quickly), rather than to produce more torque/power all round.

It's all about application. There's no "one is better than the other". One will always be better for your application than the other..."which one" depends on your application. Vehicle manufacturers around the world still have a divide about it, there's no general consensus that one is better than the other, which is why twin charging exists.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...