Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey guys so today was a busy day.

I changed the coils over with a mates ones that were working sweet and the problem was still there.

I changed the AFM to another pink sticker one, problem still there.

I decided to take a look at the ECU and to my suprise it has an odd one for it, and remembered that when i brought the engine it was out of an auto car.. and the ECU they gave us came with that engine.. so im guessing the ECU is an auto one.

The numbers are: MEC-R730 B1 6521, Ive done a search but cant find anything about this ecu.

I got a proper r33 rb25det ecu and checked the numbers on it and they are for this car but now it wont idle! its turns over and then dies straight away, if i give it some gas it i can hold the revs myself then if i slowly take my foot of the accel it will sit there idling but will be searching then pretty much die.

I unplugged the AFM and it was the same.. so while it was seaching for idle i got the mrs to plug the AFM back in and it died straight away. Would this mean its the AFM?

ok so today i checked for error codes on the manual rb25det ecu, i got code 12, which is AFM so i replaced it with another one and now it will idle fine and run, but again it is cutting out on boost!! im running out of ideas here!

Can anyone else think of anything to try?

Edited by prawln

I had the same problem when I finished my conversion. It cut out exactly like in your posted videos. I changed the spark plugs, coils, afm and couldn't find anything wrong. So I lowered the boost and took it to a tuner. Got a nistune and havn't had any problems.

ok so have some good news.. got the car fixed and sorted.

The auto ecu was causing the car to not get above 5-5.5k rpm so replaced with a manual ecu and that fixed that problem.

i was still having the cutting out on boost issues though so today i took the pod filter off and put my hand over the AFM quickly to see if i could hear any leaks in the intercooler piping.. and to my surprise bingo herd a hissing sound. I located where the noise was coming from and found that the T bolt clamp was on tere tight but when we put the joiner on the intercooler pipe was in far enough and the T bolt clamp wasnt actully over the piping so was causing it to leak! When looking at it it looked like it was on perfect but apprently not

Took for a run on 5psi actuator and ran mint!! so put the 10psi actuator and also runs mint!!! so problem solved!

Just need to bring the timing back to 15 degrees from 20 degrees as its idleing rough!

Big thanks for everyones help and sorry for this being such a silly minor stupid thing!

  • 5 years later...

Ive got the same f**ken problem its had me stumped for months changed heaps of parts and everything an stull cant get it but i dont think i have an air leak i can easly stall the motor by putting my hand over the afm. has anyone got an answer for this cutting out on boost problem? Its driving me nuts

This post should be in the hall of fame for real!

Ive got the same f**ken problem its had me stumped for months changed heaps of parts and everything an stull cant get it but i dont think i have an air leak i can easly stall the motor by putting my hand over the afm. has anyone got an answer for this cutting out on boost problem? Its driving me nuts

This post should be in the hall of fame for real!

Stalling the motor by blocking the afm is not an indication of anything. Good or bad.

Alright this is the common problem with basic mods really my only solution is bigger afm and a play around with an ecu. got my hands on a scanner

it's not 1996, buy yourself a proper ECU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...