Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So this is my silvia, its in build ups section aswell. Have thought alot about building a head for it, a new inlet manifold and winding some more boost into it to see what can be achieved. But with the level of supporting mods i allready have iv been tempted to convert. considering the same amount of work would be required between a 25 and a 26 conversion, in my opinion the cost being the only differance i would like to see what others opinions are, and also the best way to go around this conversion as well as what to keep and what to swap.

see below for a pic or two and the mods list, cheers guys :(

Also i have allready spoken to mark at godzilla motorsport and have a few ideas allready

1992 S13 Silvia, Orange with RB20DET conversion

Orange with a very faint Gold Pearl

RB20DET engine conversion

TRUST TD06H-25G Turbo kit/stainless manifold

46mm External gate with screamer

Trust Adjustable Cam Gears w/ Trust Timing Belt

RB25DET gearbox

OS GIKEN Twin Plate Clutch

KAAZ 2WAY LSD (very Fresh, even have receipts)

Z32 AFM

SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator

SARD 720cc injectors

CUSTOM Stainless Intercooler Piping

HKS Pod Filter

BOSCH 044 External Pump

External Surge Tank

ASE Polished header tank

TRUST 600x300x115 Front mount

APEXI Power FC + Hand Controller

GREDDY e-01 boost controller with LCD screen

KAKIMOTO cat back exhaust with Titanium look tip

5 Stud Hubs

R32 Skyline GTST 4 pots up front 2 pots up back

BREMBO front discs

PROJECT Mu Street Pads front

TEIN HE Drift Spec Coilovers

BRIDE ZIEG III low max seats

Matching BRIDE interior trim on doors, glove box, mats & gear boot

NARDI swede steering wheel

SAFETY 21 HALF CAGE

CUSCO strut braces front and back

CUSCO Sway bars front and back

HICAS Lock Bar

HID Head Lights

Apexi RSM

DEFI White Face Boost Gauge, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp

PIVOT Security Start Button

TRUST Gear Knob

Boot Mounted battery

Factory nismo AERO front bar

Volk/Rays Engineering TE37 Rims

18x8.5 +30 front

18x9.5 +40 rear

With 15mm bolt on spacers all round

GTR Style grill

NO A/c condenser and lines removed

makes just shy of 260kw on 18PSI.

excuse the partially unasembled engine bay photo

IMG_0759.jpg

all the photos are in the build thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ag...amp;mode=linear

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336111-conversion-rb20-silvia-to-rb26/
Share on other sites

you know if it was me, just put a rb25 in there, then you can use everything (rb20 loom, pfc etc). Spend $1500 on a decent std rb25 and 330-350rwkw. Thats what id do if it were my car.

just sell the core rb20, is it built or std? looking at power its made im reckoning std with very mild tune. A good rb25 bottom end should last as good amount of time if tuned properly, we have a few customers making that sort of power with t67's on std rb25 (for about 3-4years)

That is an option, but honestly I'd rather go an aftermarket plenum, some cams and a fresh head and really lean on the 20...

Or go straight to a 26

This really is my dream car, and when I was 18 I was going to swap out the sr for a 26 but never got around to it. If it proves to be a too expensive option or the forseable future I will build on the 20 as mentioned. It's kind of expected that a 25 should make decent power, so I just don't see it as an exciting stand out thing. A 20 making big numbers is a big deal in my opinion, and the 26 I just the pinnacle of a tough car for me.

And this isn't going to be hard parked, lots of drift rounds next year and everything is allready organized to make sure Sydney powerbroker is going to be a big weekend!

I think what Trent is trying to tell you is that an RB25 will offer far better bang for buck than a 20 or a 26 , cannot overstate too much what you get out of the extra 500cc's/larger ports/larger valves than a 20 has .

In loose terms an RB25 is a more budget minded RB26 , same sized bores , same sized valves and the major differences are what bolts onto the head .

An RB25 will make the sort of power easily that a mega expensive RB20 can only dream about and not cost an arm and a leg .

Personally if you plan to build something up , RB30 short and a 25 or 26 head .

Your call .

I think what Trent is trying to tell you is that an RB25 will offer far better bang for buck than a 20 or a 26 , cannot overstate too much what you get out of the extra 500cc's/larger ports/larger valves than a 20 has .

In loose terms an RB25 is a more budget minded RB26 , same sized bores , same sized valves and the major differences are what bolts onto the head .

An RB25 will make the sort of power easily that a mega expensive RB20 can only dream about and not cost an arm and a leg .

Personally if you plan to build something up , RB30 short and a 25 or 26 head .

Your call .

yeah, a 26 is gonna be a big investment and honestly a rb25 will make 95% of the peak of a similar tuned 26.

if you go 25 all your "hot" side will bolt on (turbo gate etc...) you could do a forward facing plenum and use all the rb20 fueling system you have.

i love rb20's but a turbo like yours will love an extra 500cc.

not into stroking, and i wil never run a 30 bottom end. personal pref the end.

all good and well people suggesting i dont see were trent is coming from, and i honestly respect his decision as i know he is guru in the industry. BUT, i dont want a 25, i dont think you all understand why im saying that and why i want to choose between a 20 or a 26.

25's are expected to make good power, its just not a new thing, its been done over and over and im just not interested.

Thinking back to the days of the IMKAOS r32 that made big big numbers from a rb20 inspire me to follow the same path, i know he eventually went a 30/25 but thats not the point. when he made numbers in the 20 people's ears picked up. and he was noticed.

now for the 26, its just f**king tuff, plain and simple. "you have a gtr motor in there? get farked!"

seriously everytime a 25 is mentioned in here the thread is going off topic, so please keep to my two listed options? lean on the 20 with some fresh mods, or what would be reiquired etc for the 26 conversion.

thankyou

Off topic: Does anyone know what gearbox crossmember to use for rb26 with rb25 box in a s13????

I would go a 26 they are definately geting cheaper these days. It all comes down to budget, whether you want to keep the car or sell it and really just personal preference. You can keep a bit off the stuff you already got too. There is just something about the howl of a 26 at high revs for me :)

Edited by Goodfellas

want 33- go 25, you already have everything to bolt onto it.

most ppl go the 26 for the wank factor and remember there 2 turbo's = twice the problem

the only thing the 26 is good for is the solid lifters and thats only if you are going to run big cams

i have a 25 setup in my sil80 and i wouldn't swap it for a 26.

i know where your coming from but how deep are your pockets and all for "you have a gtr motor in there? get farked!"

you can always put 26 covers on your 20 :)

goodfella's- use r33 x-member with 2 tabs welded onto it that will line up with factory bolt holes

just wind the boost up on the setup you have now, if done right it will last long enough for you to make a decision worthy of keeping the 20 or upgrading, the 20 should give good service at 20-24psi if tuned well.

  • 3 weeks later...

I think even though more people might notice the 20 it will suck to drive with any decent amount of power due to the lag. I'd definitely go the 25 but being as you have ruled it because it isn't different enough (personally I think this is retarded, there is a reason everyone uses it, it works great and is cheap) so if the 25 didn't exist I would go the 26.

same thing so hardly.

Personally I think rb20s sound MUCH better than rb25s or 26s, much tougher note and less raspy.

I think even though more people might notice the 20 it will suck to drive with any decent amount of power due to the lag. I'd definitely go the 25 but being as you have ruled it because it isn't different enough (personally I think this is retarded, there is a reason everyone uses it, it works great and is cheap) so if the 25 didn't exist I would go the 26.

Personally I think rb20s sound MUCH better than rb25s or 26s, much tougher note and less raspy.

Hell yeah the sound of a Rb20 at high revv's is unreal, any 1 remember the vid of the 80's race skyline RB20 NA screaming at like 8000rpm....

so ive decided that im going to build onto the 20 for now. looking for a spare head to build up. Going to give it a full birthday, swap my cam gears over to it. some 272 cams and anything else i can find off the shelf to fit it. otherwise everything else will be brande new from nissan aswell as a custom inlet plenum. Going to run bellmouths and possibly an aftermarket TB. So what headgaskets are people finding reliable on 20's these days? and who is running aftermarket head studs? should i warrant them?

And trent, who would you recomend in the sydney / newcastle area to tune a 20? your just a bit far out of reach for me to travel to

cheers everyone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...