Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Leigh,

You and Andrew probably have the OEM boost restricter removed, which inside the hose that goes to the Boost Solenoid.

Once removed you can run a "Safe" factory boost increase, as what I have heard and read about so far.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hope r34 gtr turbos can run a bit more boost safer than the r33 and r32 gtr's because mine usually runs over 1bar, the highest it got to was 1.18 on the screen which was right on the edge of the screen, maximum it reads is 2.0. in psi i think its roughly 16-17psi.

Not really - they are just newer, doesnt mean they wont/cant fail in the same fashion especially considering you dont know what was going on before you got it.

too much heat = bye bye turbo.

could happen to near new turbos IMO

I know everyone will say that it is way to much boost but I have never seen an R34 including mine run less boost than that. I bought mine with only a cat back and am in fact now running less boost with the computer and full exhaust. Factory mine ran the same and I know of a few other guys telling me the same, when mine was stock it used to hit 1.18 bar as well on occasion. Now with the wolf I have managed to run a perfectly steady .9 bar.

So done stress, the R34's just run more boost than the R33 and R34. In fact it may just be coincidence for me but I have never seen a 34 do anything but run minimum 1 bar.

Not really - they are just newer, doesnt mean they wont/cant fail in the same fashion especially considering you dont know what was going on before you got it.

too much heat = bye bye turbo.

could happen to near new turbos IMO

yeah agreed, just need to save a little bit more and ill have enough for some new turbos :thumbsup:

I know everyone will say that it is way to much boost but I have never seen an R34 including mine run less boost than that. I bought mine with only a cat back and am in fact now running less boost with the computer and full exhaust. Factory mine ran the same and I know of a few other guys telling me the same, when mine was stock it used to hit 1.18 bar as well on occasion. Now with the wolf I have managed to run a perfectly steady .9 bar.

So done stress, the R34's just run more boost than the R33 and R34. In fact it may just be coincidence for me but I have never seen a 34 do anything but run minimum 1 bar.

ok thats good to hear that its not just mine then.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

well it makes sence they are getting old and nothing lasts forever.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

+1. How long do you run that 1bar? If you're just driving on the street it wouldnt be that long would it? If you're doing mountain runs/track, the risk just increases. Its all about whether or not you wanna take the risk.

Nobody really say you cannot run 1bar but rather its not advisable to run 1 bar because the risk or probability of the turbo blowing up increases.

Mine runs 1-1.2 bar factory with no dramas but I need a tune.

Mate you've got a NUR (according to your profile/nick). They have N1 spec turbos like mine so you're not comparing apples with apple. I'm running mine at 1.15bar with no dramas too... -.-;

with my BNR34:

Mods

-full exhaust system

-cam gears

-power fc

-kn panel filter

everything else standard, 1st dyno tune from Race Pace 280awkw (30,000km) 4 years ago. Now with (120,000km) dyno tune from Race Pace it's now 250awkw.

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

aw/rw = same shit anyway.

Trent has a rwd dyno, and when i asked him about it he said he can put a "GTR setting" on or something which puts 5% more stress on it or something to act like a AWD dyno when doing GTRs, something along those lines anyway he can probably explain it more hehe

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

oops my bad, so how does he dyno it than? removes front drive shaft?

oops my bad, so how does he dyno it than? removes front drive shaft?

umm...yes...well thats what they did to mine when they dynoed it...they only have a rear wheel dyno...well atm they do...not sure if they had a 4 wheel one when you got yours...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...