Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Leigh,

You and Andrew probably have the OEM boost restricter removed, which inside the hose that goes to the Boost Solenoid.

Once removed you can run a "Safe" factory boost increase, as what I have heard and read about so far.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hope r34 gtr turbos can run a bit more boost safer than the r33 and r32 gtr's because mine usually runs over 1bar, the highest it got to was 1.18 on the screen which was right on the edge of the screen, maximum it reads is 2.0. in psi i think its roughly 16-17psi.

Not really - they are just newer, doesnt mean they wont/cant fail in the same fashion especially considering you dont know what was going on before you got it.

too much heat = bye bye turbo.

could happen to near new turbos IMO

I know everyone will say that it is way to much boost but I have never seen an R34 including mine run less boost than that. I bought mine with only a cat back and am in fact now running less boost with the computer and full exhaust. Factory mine ran the same and I know of a few other guys telling me the same, when mine was stock it used to hit 1.18 bar as well on occasion. Now with the wolf I have managed to run a perfectly steady .9 bar.

So done stress, the R34's just run more boost than the R33 and R34. In fact it may just be coincidence for me but I have never seen a 34 do anything but run minimum 1 bar.

Not really - they are just newer, doesnt mean they wont/cant fail in the same fashion especially considering you dont know what was going on before you got it.

too much heat = bye bye turbo.

could happen to near new turbos IMO

yeah agreed, just need to save a little bit more and ill have enough for some new turbos :thumbsup:

I know everyone will say that it is way to much boost but I have never seen an R34 including mine run less boost than that. I bought mine with only a cat back and am in fact now running less boost with the computer and full exhaust. Factory mine ran the same and I know of a few other guys telling me the same, when mine was stock it used to hit 1.18 bar as well on occasion. Now with the wolf I have managed to run a perfectly steady .9 bar.

So done stress, the R34's just run more boost than the R33 and R34. In fact it may just be coincidence for me but I have never seen a 34 do anything but run minimum 1 bar.

ok thats good to hear that its not just mine then.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

well it makes sence they are getting old and nothing lasts forever.

Geoff brought snowys old factory turbos - i think he got like 1,000kms out of them or something before they let go and took his motor with them (this is going back a few years now)

So they can indeed fail... It's just that most R34 GTR owners dont run them that high, for that long.

I think we will see more examples as time goes on of this occuring.

+1. How long do you run that 1bar? If you're just driving on the street it wouldnt be that long would it? If you're doing mountain runs/track, the risk just increases. Its all about whether or not you wanna take the risk.

Nobody really say you cannot run 1bar but rather its not advisable to run 1 bar because the risk or probability of the turbo blowing up increases.

Mine runs 1-1.2 bar factory with no dramas but I need a tune.

Mate you've got a NUR (according to your profile/nick). They have N1 spec turbos like mine so you're not comparing apples with apple. I'm running mine at 1.15bar with no dramas too... -.-;

with my BNR34:

Mods

-full exhaust system

-cam gears

-power fc

-kn panel filter

everything else standard, 1st dyno tune from Race Pace 280awkw (30,000km) 4 years ago. Now with (120,000km) dyno tune from Race Pace it's now 250awkw.

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

aw/rw = same shit anyway.

Trent has a rwd dyno, and when i asked him about it he said he can put a "GTR setting" on or something which puts 5% more stress on it or something to act like a AWD dyno when doing GTRs, something along those lines anyway he can probably explain it more hehe

Not to sound rude but how did Racepace dyno your car all wheel? They only have a rear wheel dyno...so they can only generate numbers with rwkw...did they ever have a 4 wheel dyno before?..

oops my bad, so how does he dyno it than? removes front drive shaft?

oops my bad, so how does he dyno it than? removes front drive shaft?

umm...yes...well thats what they did to mine when they dynoed it...they only have a rear wheel dyno...well atm they do...not sure if they had a 4 wheel one when you got yours...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...