Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Front Pipes

R34

By R34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted

I'm about to buy a new set of front pipes.

I've been told that they should have a flexijoint to reduce stress on the turbos

Trouble is I like the look of the Greddy MX pipes but they don't have the flexijoint.

UAS also have a stainless steel set with the joint for a similar price.

Anyone recommend which I should go for?

Anyone inspected the Unique Auto Sports pipes to confirm quality of them or otherwise?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/
Share on other sites
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Who cares what they look like when they're under the car :thumbsup:

The hks ones I've got have a flex joint, I guess they wouldn't put it there if it didn't do something.....I know that's not the best theory on other parts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5438320
Share on other sites
Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
I'm about to buy a new set of front pipes.

I've been told that they should have a flexijoint to reduce stress on the turbos

Trouble is I like the look of the Greddy MX pipes but they don't have the flexijoint.

UAS also have a stainless steel set with the joint for a similar price.

Anyone recommend which I should go for?

Anyone inspected the Unique Auto Sports pipes to confirm quality of them or otherwise?

Cheers

i was just in the same position myself this week.

I found it interested that everyone recommend the pipe have a flex joint but alot of j brands dont use it (for example mines :thumbsup: ) anyways i ended up going the HKS one because its one of the biggest available (70 to 85 mines is)

They are like 45,000yen brand new

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5438339
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

this is the one I purchased for my 1993 rb26dett engine, $139usd

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-02-Nissa...sQ5fAccessories

I also bought tuned-length manifolds from the same seller, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-TUNER-T...sQ5fAccessories

all up came to around $450AUD delivered (for the OBX front pipe with flex pipe + obx manifold). for another couple hundred I got HKS dump pipes. :thumbsup:

not yet installed. looks to be EXCELLENT QUALITY

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5438619
Share on other sites
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted
Who cares what they look like when they're under the car :thumbsup:

The hks ones I've got have a flex joint, I guess they wouldn't put it there if it didn't do something.....I know that's not the best theory on other parts

Agreed 110%

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5438647
Share on other sites
R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Who cares what they look like when they're under the car :)

The hks ones I've got have a flex joint, I guess they wouldn't put it there if it didn't do something.....I know that's not the best theory on other parts

No need to take me literally mate :D

I was in a rush to post as lunchtime was ending

By "look of" I was referring to things like the size of the secondary pipes compared to the JJR type ones (60mm versus 70mm)

I rang the UAS seller after deciding to buy but his attitude and phone manner turned me off getting them (didn't like me asking where they were made (I figured anyway) )and I didn't care how shiny they were.

Thanks for the help everyone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5439178
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

they are ok, but big, heavy, hard to fit and expensive. design is ok but I'm not that sold on split dumps. they claim to help spool up but during spool up wastegate is closed so how does it make any difference? ideally you want to allow the gas to expand in the fastest possible way to help flow. big bell mouth type dumps do that nicely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5506662
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
What do people thinkg about the Greddy dump/ front pipe extension? It has the split dump design on it

nengun-0085-00-trust-greddy-extention_front_pipe.jpg

Great! I had them on my car until i had to remove due to ride height issues (you wont have a problem in a GTR)

However, you want to "mod" the merge to 3.5", factory they are not quite.

That's what mine had done anyway.

Although that said, putting on stock ones with GT-SS's - i didnt notice a difference :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5506700
Share on other sites
J - Rad Veteran

J - Rad

Posted
Posted
Great! I had them on my car until i had to remove due to ride height issues (you wont have a problem in a GTR)

However, you want to "mod" the merge to 3.5", factory they are not quite.

That's what mine had done anyway.

Although that said, putting on stock ones with GT-SS's - i didnt notice a difference :)

Yeah I've got -9s going soon. Trying to get the best of everything (even using standard parts). I want to replace my front pipe (Trust MX) as its looking very worse for ware right now.

Price wise I don't see them as expensive really. Tomei dumps are what? $800 then plus a front pipe? $600?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-5508076
Share on other sites
  • 3 years later...
CrimsonLey Rising Star

CrimsonLey

Posted
Posted

I'm in the market for a new front pipe for my BNR32. I'm sporting BNR34 vspev outlets and I want a high flowing front pipe to match it.

Anyone know which design offers the best flow? 1) Equal length such as the Mine's

2) Short pipe such as the stock design, RS*R, etc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336173-gtr-front-pipes/#findComment-7122611
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...