Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per title and description, Im not sure if this would work as the extra fuel used in E85 compared to 98 PULP.

Looking at keeping fuel RON higher for track days to try and keep it ?safer?.

I usually put in a octane booster.

I run 800 cc injectors, Bosch 044 in tank and a Link ECU.

I would run E85 on a safe E85 tune if there was more than 1 place where I could buy it in Sydney, but alas there isnt, and Im not that dedicated to get 44 gal drums of the juice.

Thanks, Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336289-can-i-run-e85-on-a-98-pulp-tune/
Share on other sites

mark if you have a Link G4, talk to yavus about getting a 2nd fuel map done for E85, that way you can switch between the two with a switch on the dash/in the glove box connected to the ECU (run the tank to empty and then fill with 85 and switch over the map)

  • Like 1

Yeah Unigroup is building me a new motor which should be finished soon so a switch between maps sounds the go when its getting retuned....

I must look into this further....until then octane booster is it then.

Happy Days

just set it up as flex fuel, the G4 should have no issues.

Surely for the flex fuel to work they need to do lost of dyno time varying the mixture to confirm the afrs are correct? Or do you mean essentially use one or the other.

Edited by Rolls
Surely for the flex fuel to work they need to do lost of dyno time varying the mixture to confirm the afrs are correct? Or do you mean essentially use one or the other.

Link supports the seimens sensor, if a megasquirt can do it i reckon my calculator should be able to work it out :thumbsup:

i thought they only supported the Siemens sensor for that? its possible but not cheap.

you could also do it via a permanent wideband sensor, but sensor degradation over time would need to be monitored. A dead sensor would wreak havoc.

you could also do it via a permanent wideband sensor, but sensor degradation over time would need to be monitored. A dead sensor would wreak havoc.

Using dual wideband sensors could work, but you are getting up there in cost. How much is the flex fuel sniffer sensor anyway?

It seems the sensor outputs a square wave of varying frequency. How many ecu's can take this type of input?

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.ph...8727.msg1083049

post-63525-1284172927_thumb.jpg

Using dual wideband sensors could work, but you are getting up there in cost. How much is the flex fuel sniffer sensor anyway?

It seems the sensor outputs a square wave of varying frequency. How many ecu's can take this type of input?

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.ph...8727.msg1083049

Most Ecu's will work with a pull up resistor.

The sensor is not cheap but in the scheme of things $500 (max for new version, as old versions are unreliable) is not too bad for the convenience of filling up anywhere.

Im working with a ecu manufacturer at the moment to integrate the inbuilt diag so it will set off the engine light if it goes out of spec (same as in factory installs)

I will check that thread out now

http://e-85.com.au/e85-performance-fuel/

$500 is OK, Flex Fuel thingo sounds like its easy to install (not by me of course, I only fix things with hammers)

COMPATIBLE FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS: Because ethanol contains oxygen, it can form corrosive agents. Any water that enters the system can promote the formation of formic acid. Although this process takes a significant amount of time before damage occurs, the tank, pump, and lines should be either stainless steel or coated with a plastic material that is ethanol-compatible. All natural rubber parts that could be in contact with ethanol must also be replaced with synthetic and other materials.

From reading this they suggest a stainless/plastic fuel cell and replace all lines as well as it is corrosive, dont really want the rear of my boat looking like a A9X with a big arse stainless tank hanging low (though the extra volume of fuel would be welcome(suppose I could paint it black ?)), but meh, might ring around some places that fab tanks for a price.

More to follow.

Mark

:) Yeah OK Im a idiot, was reading in anouther thread about fuel pumps and it said if it was a GTR it would have a plastic tank, so I ass umed that a GTS-T wouldnt.

Thanks man.

:P

  • 2 years later...

Digging up an old thread here, but I pulled my fuel tank on the weekend to give it a full clean out (gunk + BP98) and to replace the fuel pump with a Walbro 460LPH unit. I have a PowerFC with a BP98 tune.

Given the car will run lean with the E85, but also given I'm keen not to introduce BP98 back into the tank, I'm wondering whether I can fill the tank with E85 and drive carefully (i.e. no boost, minimal revs) to the workshop to get tuned? I know it would clearly be safer to get it towed but that might be a hassle with work hours etc. Obviously I don't want to cause any damage so if there's any risk of that even off-boost then I'll just have to get it towed but just looking for some thoughts or experience.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...