Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My previous setup copped the following upgrades:

3076 52 trim (replaced the 3071 56 trim);

Extrude honed exhaust housing;

3.5 inch C-Red custom dump and custom CES exhaust (replaced 3 inch ex)

Tial MVR wastegates smaller (replaced Tial 44 wastegates)

100 cpi cat with 5 inch body 3.5 inch in and out;

Gate dump merged back into exhaust just before the cat (previously merged just before it went under the car);

BP98 retune by Sean at Allstargarage.

Unfortunately I don't have back to back dyno's on the same dyno as the retune was done by a different tuner.

3076Dyno.jpg

Will post up the boost graph when received.

Initial driving impressions - this feels more responsive than the previous 3071 setup. Peak hp is achieved at around 6350 rpm.

I suspect the boost control is a little wonky judging by the torque and hp graphs.

links to other threads:

Dyno's

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sr...l=my+sr20+build

Build Pics etc

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sr...l=my+sr20+build

Edited by juggernaut1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336956-my-sr20-build-part-2-twin-scroll/
Share on other sites

Nice results indeed.

Very interesting that the larger turbo is more responsive - when compared to the old graphs you can see it's clearly more responsive, no question! It's making an extra 40rwkw @ 3200rpm!!

Looks like the larger exhaust & new gate plumbing helped substancially.

What were the old parts removed? (just for info's sake, like what CAT was there etc?)

Any other boost controller alterations? (hard to tell if its more responsive without the graph yet hehe)

Looking good. I'd like to see the boost and AFR overlays.

What sort of muffler setup did you have fitted? And how is the noise level?

Just had a 3.5 inch system fitted to my R33, not droney or anti social so pretty good for every day use. Hurricane mufflers.

Nice results indeed.

Very interesting that the larger turbo is more responsive - when compared to the old graphs you can see it's clearly more responsive, no question! It's making an extra 40rwkw @ 3200rpm!!

Looks like the larger exhaust & new gate plumbing helped substancially.

What were the old parts removed? (just for info's sake, like what CAT was there etc?)

Any other boost controller alterations? (hard to tell if its more responsive without the graph yet hehe)

The old cat was a Metal Cat 4inch body with 3inch in and out. The old exhaust was a CES 3 inch exhaust from the cat back. The previous dump was a full-race motorsports dump with custom lower pipe.

No boost controller alterations

Yes I believe the larger 3.5 inch dump straight off the back of the turbo and introducing the gate pipes back into the exhaust just before the cat are can be attributable for the extra responsiveness. Josh at C-Red did an awesome job of the fabrication work - fitting a 3.5 inch dump and twin 44mm gate tubes in an SR engine bay is no mean feat. The 3.5 inch CES exhaust is also pure quality. In fact I would also suggest its no louder than their 3 inch system even with the 100cpi cat. The mufflers are 2 x large custom made in house at CES.

Edited by juggernaut1

It's made quite a massive difference, goes to show you can make the power with a tight exhaust, but changing it can still reap big benefits.

Be interesting to see the boost graph when its done - it looks like it's coming on at LEAST 500rpm sooner.

And for going to a larger turbo, gettting boost earlier - thats just fken win win win!

Looking good. I'd like to see the boost and AFR overlays.

I was told it made 1.6 bar (23psi) at 3600rpm....which sounds plausable judging by the torque curve....which is awesome for a 3076 on a stock stroke SR

I'd like to see the boost graph though.

Edited by juggernaut1
How can you come to the conclusion of what made the difference when a few things were changed?

Note the trim size, is a 3076 52 trim turbo bigger than a 3071 56 trim turbo?

Yes, a 3076 52 trim turbo is slightly bigger than the 3071 56 trim.

Your right though, I can't conclusively say what did what....I don't even know what boost it was running on the dyno yet apart from that I was told it made 1.6 bar at 3600rpm.

All I do know is that I'm running a slightly bigger turbo and the car is definately more responsive throughout with the changes and the tune.

Perhaps this turbo is just more efficient at whatever boost it is running compared to the 3071?

Edited by juggernaut1

Yup but what if its running an extra 6psi in the midrange? I suppose even the speed that it can boost at is a big improvement.

Not trying to diss the results at all, I think they are great. I just think more investigation is required before understanding what caused the improvement.

You can tell whats caused it.

It's coming onto boost that much earlier though that it wont just be turbo - you don't get 40rwkw @ the same RPM (3200) as this is where boost is just ramping up if you look @ the old graphs and simple compare the torque/power curve. You don't need to see a boost plot to have a fair idea of whats going on.

Peak power/boost, I'm not really worried about here, its the huge improvement in response that is awesome.

It's all happening much much sooner that is more than just a turbo change that's for sure.

My guess is that a GT3037 52T turbo if it has the port shrouded comp housing should be a far better thing than a real GT3071R . Nismoid the only map I've ever seen of the GT37 52T compressor looks good , better in fact that the GT37 56T maps . Admittedly the 52T one I have is not a genuine Garrett map but the islands are vaguely similar to the 56T ones but moved 4-5 lbs further left .

The major change is the center island of highest efficiency - 78% and its wider that the 56Ts one .

Trim wise the 3071R and GT3037 52T are different - 56T and 52T . If you mean inducer diameter then its ~ 55mm for the 52T GT37 and 53.1mm for the 56T GT35 wheel (GT3071R) .

Don't be confused by my use of the the GT35 and GT37 compressor wheel families , they stem from the fact that those compressor wheels originally came from plain bearing GT diesel turbos and their turbines were GT35 and GT37 sized ones ie GT3571 and GT3776 .

A .

Do you think its worth 40rwkw @ 3200rpm though? Just as boost is ramping?

I know the centre is where the bigger difference is, but thats not whats more notable about this setup (not saying is less important etc)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...