Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

interesting what ppl recommend for oil....

ive noticed since switching to full synthetic valvoline syn power i have better oil pressure, according to the stock gauge....

cold start its showing more oil pressure and when hot its never goes below the 2 mark....

the oil weights i use always been the same.... is this normal?

  • 3 weeks later...
iv never hurd of it.. where can you buy it from?

thats pretty interesting. no oil leaks or blow by in my RB25.. so basically stick to a 5w-40 10w-40max.. just wondering tho australian temps are alot hotter then say Europe wouldnt this mean the higher hot rating would be better? not so much the cold rateing.. i have seen my oil temps at 120c before on track..

i might check out some Mobil Synthetic S 10W 40 seems cheaper then turbo light same temp rating. and Mobil one is European to isnt it? so im guessing its over 75%?

Buy a top quality synthetic. Work out which is the right viscosity for your car so that it doesn't overheat ( or get an oil cooler if necessary) and stop changing it so often. It will be good for at least 20,000km. Change your filter more often than that if you want.
ive switched over to the Penrite 10-40w, its a semi synth, will defiantly be using again for my next oil change. Price was about $45

Get onto the Penrite website and compare their tables of spec's for the oils they produce - viscosity at different temps varies enormously. I personally would only ever use Penrite Sin 0 or Sin 5 if running the car on the track, it was excellent in my modified R33 - ran cool and sweet and the oil level remained constant between changes. This was after I twice broke oil rings while using Mobil 1.

I did try Sin 10w-70 in my Stagea S2 but found that on cold mornings the high viscosity made a couple of lifters sticky for the first few seconds. I've since also discovered that Penrite recommends Sin 0 for R34 RB25DET Neo engines, including for track use.

Just ordered 5L of royal purple 5W40 for the soup - Harold @ Performance Hub, cant recommend enough!

That lab test done by Street Commodores mag back in March 2006 had Royal Purple and Penrite Sin 5w-60 on their own at the top of the 18 oils tested, with virtually identical results, way ahead of any other brand tested. The Penrite, however, costs half as much.

Yeah, and the mag got shot down for incorrect testing procedures....

I've always put royal purple in all my cars, all have run brilliantly, so why change for the sake of $40 or so?

I'm a brand whore.

Edited by Ten Four
Yeah, and the mag got shot down for incorrect testing procedures....

I've always put royal purple in all my cars, all have run brilliantly, so why change for the sake of $40 or so?

I'm a brand whore.

No, I checked, the oil companies whose oils didn't do so well complained that there weren't enough tests to cover all the different attributes an oil may have - the tests that they did do were fine in themselves - nothing wrong with the methodology and the mag still stands by validity of the results. It's up to the individual to draw their own conclusions. For me the most critical one was the scar produced on the side of the roller bearing when the oil film broke. I can readily relate that one to engine wear!

"My name is Roger Miller. I do work for Red Line Oil in Victoria. One of my clients passed on your enquiry. In a rough sense this test is used for grease not oil. It is like using a quarter mile drag strip to find the "best four wheel drive on the market." A real test but totally irrelevent to what happens in the real world.The addition of friction modifiers to the test bears this out. You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day. So what does the falex test really test...??? "

Meh, I like my RP

another vote for performanceclub.com - unbeatable prices and service from Harold. Get your good oils from him, faster than trying to track it down from local autohabibs franchise and less bull.

No, I checked, the oil companies whose oils didn't do so well complained that there weren't enough tests to cover all the different attributes an oil may have - the tests that they did do were fine in themselves - nothing wrong with the methodology and the mag still stands by validity of the results. It's up to the individual to draw their own conclusions. For me the most critical one was the scar produced on the side of the roller bearing when the oil film broke. I can readily relate that one to engine wear!

Oh I guess using a test that was designed for heavy liquids such as grease, and sometimes gear oils, not engine oils. It pisses me off that people are still reading that stupid street commodores test.

This quote by a Red Line rep sums it up about that Timken test (http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/8381065241):

"You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day."

Buy a top quality synthetic. Work out which is the right viscosity for your car so that it doesn't overheat ( or get an oil cooler if necessary) and stop changing it so often. It will be good for at least 20,000km. Change your filter more often than that if you want.

Even for a group 5 synthetic, 20,000km is really stretching it...you'd want them to be an awful lot of country km...

Oh I guess using a test that was designed for heavy liquids such as grease, and sometimes gear oils, not engine oils. It pisses me off that people are still reading that stupid street commodores test.

This quote by a Red Line rep sums it up about that Timken test (http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/8381065241):

"You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day."

It's certainly true that you can add a friction modifier to a motor oil then do the test with the lever loading up the bearing and get a much better result. My mate's dad was a Wynn's Friction Proofing rep and I saw him do this "test" many times.

In the SC mag article that so offends you, the oils were tested as they came out of the manufacturer's container; it's not like a friction modifier was added for the test, so what are you saying? Is it that the oils that come with a friction modifier are somehow a spurious and misleading product? I suspect that the quantity of friction modifier in those various oils is far from constant, so do you feel that only the ones with a minimal amount are worth considering?

As I don't have any engineering qualifications, I'm puzzled as to why it would piss you off so much that anyone might place credence in this same test by SC mag. The results were pretty graphic - what was wrong about them? Can you suggest a more valid one by which the relative capabilities of engine oils might be compared? If you want to ignore the SC mag test, all we have is anecdotal, or worse, purely subjective evidence. I'd like to hear what information you use to form your opinions about different oils.

So much of this has been covered in the oils thread.

Magnatec 10w 40

30 bucks a bottle with a filter!

Don't use magnatec unless you want to test whether you can hear/feel the difference between a good oil and a bad one. I decided to use some cheap oil for a quick 1000km flush of my engine a while ago and changed after like 800km I hated it so much. The engine didn't like to rev and sounded like shit. Replaced it with some nulon "fully synthetic" I had left over and everything felt much better.

interesting what ppl recommend for oil....

ive noticed since switching to full synthetic valvoline syn power i have better oil pressure, according to the stock gauge....

cold start its showing more oil pressure and when hot its never goes below the 2 mark....

the oil weights i use always been the same.... is this normal?

Yes. The stock oil pressure gauge us pretty sh!t, but I have the same numbers you do. It all makes sense mate, the thicker the oil the more pressure the pump is putting on it in the attempt to squeeze it through the filter. As it gets thinner, the pressure goes down and the flowrate goes up.

If you want to do what most people on here swear by, get an oil that is 10w40, or 5w40, and fully synthetic (or a good semi if you change it every 5000km and don't have too many mods).

Sougi is the flavour at the moment because it's really cheap, ~$60 for 5L, and it's grade V fully synthetic, which means it'll happily last 10000km. It's the same grade as motul 300v for half the price. They also do a very good semi-synth using a mix of grades III and V for ~$30 for 5L.

Sougi is no longer being made but there is lots left over. I personally like sougi but when it runs out, and if there's no alternative, I'll be using 8100 xcess or royal purple.

It's certainly true that you can add a friction modifier to a motor oil then do the test with the lever loading up the bearing and get a much better result. My mate's dad was a Wynn's Friction Proofing rep and I saw him do this "test" many times.

In the SC mag article that so offends you, the oils were tested as they came out of the manufacturer's container; it's not like a friction modifier was added for the test, so what are you saying? Is it that the oils that come with a friction modifier are somehow a spurious and misleading product? I suspect that the quantity of friction modifier in those various oils is far from constant, so do you feel that only the ones with a minimal amount are worth considering?

As I don't have any engineering qualifications, I'm puzzled as to why it would piss you off so much that anyone might place credence in this same test by SC mag. The results were pretty graphic - what was wrong about them? Can you suggest a more valid one by which the relative capabilities of engine oils might be compared? If you want to ignore the SC mag test, all we have is anecdotal, or worse, purely subjective evidence. I'd like to hear what information you use to form your opinions about different oils.

All SC tests prove is, if I ever run out of grease, I can turn to a bottle of royal purple to grease up my garage door.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for all the replies fellas. Gonna finish putting it back together and see how it handles the set up. If it starts pinging it’ll be parked.
    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
×
×
  • Create New...