Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Happy, Something Is Wrong...

Hanaldo

By Hanaldo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just got home from a dyno day at Autoworx with my club West Coast Cruisers, really not happy with my car...

Long story short, it was converted to GTT using parts from a donor car about 2 months ago. At the time, KYP (the garage that did the conversion) had the car dynoed at Autoworx to make sure the AFR's were ok, car made 220rwhp @10psi with FMIC, EBC, stock exhaust except for the crappy mild steel 2.5" cat-back it had from when it was NA, stock non-turbo fuel pump, Apexi pod filter, and Splitfire coilpacks. They also replaced all the serviceable items, so new o2 sensor, new water pump, new timing belt, new gaskets, etc.

Soon after getting it back from KYP I got a custom 3" straight-cut stainless steel cat-back exhaust (made by Kermit), 5" high-flow cat, and 3" bellmouth Tomei dump/front pipe. Then I installed a 550hp Walbro fuel pump, and made up a heatshield for my pod filter. 2 weeks ago I got a NIStune ecu installed and tuned by Andrew at Hyperdrive, one of SAUWA's sponsors and a very reputable tuner in WA... He set high boost on the EBC to 13.5psi, and the car made 243.0rwhp. Doesn't seem too flash, but Hyperdrives dyno is known to read about 20-30hp below, so Andrew told me my car was realistically making about 265-270rwhp.

Since then the car has seemed to drive really well, it feels fast and it was a lot smoother than before it was tuned. But my fuel economy became shocking. I was getting about 280kms to a tank of fuel, driving on low boost and hardly ever hitting boost (I'm pretty relaxed, I drive it like it is a normal car). It is no better on high boost, and no better if I put my foot down all the time. Before the car was tuned I was getting about 360kms to a tank.

Now today, I ran my car at Autoworx again and the result was 233.5rwhp. 10 less than I got at Hyperdrive which is meant to read low, and only 13 more than when it ran at Autoworx a couple of months earlier, despite all my modifications since then. The worst part is my fuel consumption. I filled my car up in the morning before heading to Autoworx, and when I got home my fuel gauge was sitting on the half way mark and I've only done 85kms...

So I don't understand what the problem is... Bad tune is the only thing I can come up with. I have asked Andrew about it, but he said the only thing he can do is put it back on the dyno but I don't really want to pay for more dyno time and then find he still can't tell me what the problem is...

Any suggestions? I will upload the two dyno charts for comparison in a sec... I tried to be as detailed as I could, but feel free to ask me anthing if I missed something, I'm all ears.

Thanks guys,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337389-not-happy-something-is-wrong/
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

First thing i'd do is check that closed loop control is working correctly via CONSULT (use the nistune cable and software if you have it) The o2 sensor readout should flick back and forth during light load as the ECU changes to the fuel delivery hunting for stoichiometric. Generally the tuner mostly tunes the full load cells (which dont use closed loop). If you're babying it around the econ shouldnt change much at all AFAIK.

If closed loop is not working it could be o2 sensor, or the tuner forgot to turn it back on (IIRC there's a number of different ways to toggle closed loop with nistune)

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Personally, I would have the current tune backed up then cut my losses and have it re-tuned elsewhere.

I doubt it can be much more than that when you gained so little HP from all those mods, combined with poor economy it seems like it should be tune related. If there was a separate issue it would throw the tune out when fixed anyway.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok thanks mate, I have been racking my brains trying to think of what else it could be other than a dodgy tune as Hyperdrive are supposed to be NIStune specialists :D I'll get on the phone to Andrew tomorrow then.

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

Strange dude...

My tune at the moment was done by Andrew. It's got its flaws its not perfect, he only spent a few runs tuning my car originally, but I trust Andrew, never had a problem with his tune/work in over 30,000kms.

Here's my most recent graph from his tune:

P1000847.jpg

Even with weird AFRs like that its still safe and hasn't caused me any problems...

I'd encourage you to give it (tuning) a go yourself. (I'll lend ya my lambda sensor and AFR gauge if ya really want!) Depends on the Nistune software (how easy it is to use), but my EMS software wasn't hard at all.

Since then I've done a bit of my own tuning, tuned out a rough spot around 3k rpm and -10mmhg vacuum and i'm attempting to tune out another one at about 2k rpm and similar load.

The poor fuel economy could be caused by decelleration fuel cut or maybe your cruising AFRs are too rich. I've been working for the WA sporting car club today @ barbagallo today, and I've seen numerous cars with Hyperdrive stickers on them, so I doubt Andrew would've given your car back without it having a decent enough tune...

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

put it on a dyno and check the basics. so many variables and so many things changed.

everyone is quick to blame the workshop so before you go doing any of that, get it all checked and check the basics on the dyno. check the tune, check the timing, check the fuel, check the fuel pump (walbro's can be ass sometimes) check the AFR's

excessive fuel usuage is usually

poor tune

poor closed loop

constant loading the car up / bring it on boost repeatedly

a good check is to give the car to your girlfriend or mum and let her drive it for a few days

i bet the economy doulbes or triples when they drive it (ie they baby it and dont bring it on boost constantly)

i know you said you dont do it, but its a simple mechnical check, if if they get same ass economy its not your driving

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted
a good check is to give the car to your girlfriend or mum and let her drive it for a few days

i bet the economy doulbes or triples when they drive it (ie they baby it and dont bring it on boost constantly)

That is a sure way to use more fuel with Ms Wolv behind the wheel. She is always ramping it onto boost.

Everyones dyno "reads low", its the new black.

:D

The car needs to go back to the tuner, there is little else you can do.....

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted
Everyones dyno "reads low", its the new black.

Yeah but that's easy to say when your car makes 450kw mate! haha

I'm the first person to add 30hp to my dyno graph above, cos it was on HD's dyno hahaha

My car might only make 223hp there, but im still convinced its a fast car. I've driven some pretty half decent cars around Barbagallo (mk1 esky with 350hp turbo cosworth, 300hp rb25 s13), and my car isn't that dissimilar in feel and accelleration... There's def something wrong with that dyno haha Maybe it needs a re-calibration?

'Street-tuning-yourself-and-using-your-butt-dyno' is the new black... lol That was me about 5 minutes ago :D

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

andrew seams to ignore light load tuning and only do full load tunes when hes busy. if he didnt spend much time on it then i dare say you have a rich light load map with no where near enough timing. i'm in perth and have nistune software if you want me to take a look at it for you?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Would you mind mate? You want beer or something? I'm not sure how long he spent working on it, it was there all day but he had a couple of other cars to do and he had to install the board in my ecu so may not have spent that much time actually tuning it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr · Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...