Jump to content
SAU Community

Possible head gasket fail, or something else?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Have a 2003 Nissan Pulsar Auto sedan (QG18DE). Couple months back the radiator cracked while driving the the engine reached hot. I pulled over quick to let it cool then drove a few minutes back home.
Couple months later, I got a new radiator and installed with new coolant and started the car (with heater open). noticed car ran rough, bit of white smoke and smelt like old fuel / turps. Thought was normal as car had been sitting, but I noticed upon checking oil, under the oil cap with a little white foam. I removed spark plugs to see if signs of burning coolant and they were all wet (all cylinders), there was also coolant in the cylinders.

White smoke video
Rough idle

Note, there didn't appear to be bubbles when I had the coolant cap off and the engine running.

Now, I initially diagnosed with a head gasket based on what i saw and what I've read online, but someone's just mentioned that it may not be a head gasket as if the head gasket failed to the point that coolant was getting into all cylinders, coolant would be spitting out of the radiator like a geyser (with the cap off). One other person also said it could even be coolant going through the inlet manifold but I'd have to check if the inlet has coolant jackets in it.

Before attempting to remove the head, I thought I'd ask here what you guys think? I'll have to double check some things tomorrow but I didn't see anything that looked like coolant would flow to the inlet manifold. Either way, is there a way to test for inlet manifold/EGR coolant leaks?

Anyone familiar with this engine know if the intake/exhaust have coolant passages? I have a manual (PDF) but don't really know what to search for.

20230614_161750.jpg

20230614_164218.jpg

IMG_20230620_173610.jpg

IMG_20230620_174104.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Unfortunately a head gasket can fail between coolant and oil without breaching the combustion chamber.

True, though so far it looks like a tiny bit, so I'm not sure if it got there via gasket or other. Biggest unknown for me at this stage is how all cylinders got coolant in them. 'If' by chance it was from the inlet manifold or EGR, how would I test for these, as the inlet and exhaust would be easier to test for as it wouldn't require the removal of the head, no?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Overheated now runs like shit and smells......

You have to pull stuff apart. That is the engine, starting with the head.

No way around it

 

 

Or chemiweld and sell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Overheated now runs like shit and smells......

You have to pull stuff apart. That is the engine, starting with the head.

No way around it

Or chemiweld and sell.

Runs not the greatest. Got the pink slip done 2weeks ago as it's rego is due. Doesn't smell anymore though, only when I started it after it had sat for 1-2months.

Understandable about pulling it a par. Was planning on taking the head off in the next couple of days, but then someone mentioned the possibility of a leak from the manifold. Thought I'd try test it first as it's more easily accessible on the side of the engine.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

It'll be the head gasket. Why would it be anything else after a coolant dump and overheat?

Not sure. I'm pretty new to this stuff & it's only when a couple people pointed out some engines have coolant running through the coolant jackets in the inlet manifold, that's it's possible for that to fail and enter through the intake, plus running the engine I hadn't noticed bubbles or geyser-like spray from the radiator like in this video. Thought I'd check here, see if any other experienced people had any opinions on the situation. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, LeWidget said:

Not sure. I'm pretty new to this stuff & it's only when a couple people pointed out some engines have coolant running through the coolant jackets in the inlet manifold, that's it's possible for that to fail and enter through the intake, plus running the engine I hadn't noticed bubbles or geyser-like spray from the radiator like in this video. Thought I'd check here, see if any other experienced people had any opinions on the situation. 

The QG18DE does have coolant in the intake manifold. Most QG18DEs do not have EGR, only California emissions models and comparably strict emissions regimes would have them. Even then none of them have an EGR cooler so no coolant would make it into the engine from the EGR system and it wouldn't get into the oil that way either, any more than you would from the intake manifold leaking. There is no coolant in the exhaust manifold or anything like that, this engine is pretty straightforward in that regard.

Theoretically it is possible that your intake manifold is causing all of these issues but I kind of find it hard to believe. Pressurize the cooling system and see if you can hear that pressure coming from the intake manifold. Or get a camera snaked in there and see if there's coolant pooling in the intake manifold. You can also try pressurizing the cylinders, if you have a blown head gasket it should end up either in the valve cover or pushing out the radiator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/2/2023 at 5:41 PM, joshuaho96 said:

The QG18DE does have coolant in the intake manifold. Most QG18DEs do not have EGR,

Hey, thanks Josh :). I recently found out that the series 1 QG18DE has the coolant in the intake but the series 2 (which is what I have) doesn't. I'll have to look at getting a cooling system pressure tester and/or cylinder leak down tester.

Thanks gain :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, LeWidget said:

Hey, thanks Josh :). I recently found out that the series 1 QG18DE has the coolant in the intake but the series 2 (which is what I have) doesn't. I'll have to look at getting a cooling system pressure tester and/or cylinder leak down tester.

Thanks gain :)

If there’s no coolant passage in the series 2 that really leaves very few if not zero possibilities other than head gasket. In 3rd gen Priuses head gaskets start by failing ever so slightly and causing a rough cold start as the coolant has to get burned off. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

If there’s no coolant passage in the series 2 that really leaves very few if not zero possibilities other than head gasket

Looks like I'll be digging into the engine :/. This should be interesting.
 

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Always Has Been Meme | Always has been; Is it teh headgasket? | image tagged in memes,always has been | made w/ Imgflip meme maker


haha, seems to be the case :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got the head off. Will be taking into a machinist on Monday. I used a Daytona ruler from Sydney tools to check for warp on the head. I didn't get a .002' feeler slipping through, but a did shine a light from one side & noticed a hairline amount coming though, so whether it's because I used a ruler instead of a proper 'straight-edge', hopefully it's not as bad.

The headgasket, I can't really tell from looking at it or the head/block what's going on. It's all a mess to me. The headgasket was split at the section that separates cyl #1+2, and cyl #3+4. see picture here.

The exhaust valves 1 and 2 are rough on the surface (see images) ,anyone know if it's likely deposits or corrosion? The intake valves on the same cylinders seem fine though.

Exhaust Valve #1
Exhaust Valve #2

Q: What brand Gaskets / Gasket Kits & Head Bolts are worth looking into? I don't really want to spend big $$$ on high-end, even if they are top-quality, I just need something on the budget end but from a good manufacturer if that makes sense? It's only a daily car and doesn't have a whole-lotta value.

Q: Anyone know if the QG18DE (series 2 N16) has a coolant drain plug for the engine block? I couldn't see anything in the manual about it.

Q: The camshaft section & cams are stained with oil (apparently it wasn't changed often enough). What's the best way/product that can really clean through all that?

While fiddling with the car, I noticed the Alternator drive belt (I think that's what it's called) is in bad shape. I can't find anything printed on it to tell me the part number. Any ideas on how to find the correct part number and any recommendations on brands?

Here's some more photos I uploaded to Flickr.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/198784515@N03/hR2j80s9y0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The photos don't work great so can't see on phone what's going on.

 

For the velt they are standardised to a certain extent. That bring the amount of ribs and length.

You could just take it to a shop and they measure it and sell you one, but surely you just tell them.what car it is for amd they also easily sell you one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, LeWidget said:

Finally got the head off. Will be taking into a machinist on Monday. I used a Daytona ruler from Sydney tools to check for warp on the head. I didn't get a .002' feeler slipping through, but a did shine a light from one side & noticed a hairline amount coming though, so whether it's because I used a ruler instead of a proper 'straight-edge', hopefully it's not as bad.

The headgasket, I can't really tell from looking at it or the head/block what's going on. It's all a mess to me. The headgasket was split at the section that separates cyl #1+2, and cyl #3+4. see picture here.

The exhaust valves 1 and 2 are rough on the surface (see images) ,anyone know if it's likely deposits or corrosion? The intake valves on the same cylinders seem fine though.

Exhaust Valve #1
Exhaust Valve #2

Q: What brand Gaskets / Gasket Kits & Head Bolts are worth looking into? I don't really want to spend big $$$ on high-end, even if they are top-quality, I just need something on the budget end but from a good manufacturer if that makes sense? It's only a daily car and doesn't have a whole-lotta value.

Q: Anyone know if the QG18DE (series 2 N16) has a coolant drain plug for the engine block? I couldn't see anything in the manual about it.

Q: The camshaft section & cams are stained with oil (apparently it wasn't changed often enough). What's the best way/product that can really clean through all that?

While fiddling with the car, I noticed the Alternator drive belt (I think that's what it's called) is in bad shape. I can't find anything printed on it to tell me the part number. Any ideas on how to find the correct part number and any recommendations on brands?

Here's some more photos I uploaded to Flickr.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/198784515@N03/hR2j80s9y0

Mahle makes a head gasket kit for these engines, I'd probably go with them. The specific kit varies based on the series of the engine. They're on the expensive side for aftermarket but dramatically cheaper than OEM. On Rockauto though they have a set that is heavily discounted down to 30 USD before shipping for USDM Sentras built after 04/01/2003. Normally it's 85 USD. Nissan wants 80-90 USD for the head gasket alone so I'd call it a deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Mahle makes a head gasket kit for these engines, I'd probably go with them. The specific kit varies based on the series of the engine. They're on the expensive side for aftermarket but dramatically cheaper than OEM. On Rockauto though they have a set that is heavily discounted down to 30 USD before shipping for USDM Sentras built after 04/01/2003. Normally it's 85 USD. Nissan wants 80-90 USD for the head gasket alone so I'd call it a deal.

Thanks Josh :). Engine is series 2 as far as I know. I've seen two types of kits so far for the N16 QG18DE engine, I presume one is for series one (not 100% sure though).
Do you have a link to the Rockauto kit you mentioned? Their website looks a little outdated lol, looks like it's from the 90's. I had a look, though the kits look a little different, at least based on the intake gasket, my intake gasket looks different, not sure about the head gasket itself though. 

Any suggestions on torque to yield bolts? I found a few sets of bolts but they lack information so not sure if they're suitable for this application despite being "compatible". 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, LeWidget said:

Thanks Josh :). Engine is series 2 as far as I know. I've seen two types of kits so far for the N16 QG18DE engine, I presume one is for series one (not 100% sure though).
Do you have a link to the Rockauto kit you mentioned? Their website looks a little outdated lol, looks like it's from the 90's. I had a look, though the kits look a little different, at least based on the intake gasket, my intake gasket looks different, not sure about the head gasket itself though. 

Any suggestions on torque to yield bolts? I found a few sets of bolts but they lack information so not sure if they're suitable for this application despite being "compatible". 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2656930&cc=1430921&pt=5416&jsn=886

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2647470&cc=1429567&pt=5416&jsn=1004

Only difference is the A at the end. In the US the non-A version is listed for 2000-2003 Sentra and the A version is 2002-2006. I have a very hard time figuring out what the difference is just looking at the pictures at a glance. I have a hard time telling what head bolts can be trusted but TTY requires a new set every time. OEM in the US at least seems really cheap for head bolts, if it's only a few dollars each way I would just go OEM to not have to sweat it. Even then sometimes I just end up going OEM in cases like the RB26 oil pressure sensor where all the aftermarket alternatives are notorious for dying rapidly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Josh :). I ended up getting a gasket set + bolts from the machinst. I got him to do the valve stem seals too so was a bit easier and quicker. He checked the head and it seemed ok, nothing damaged, so hopefully everything's all good.
In the end, the machinist clean the block, surface the head and installed the new valve seals. Look tidy. 


 

20230725_185431.jpg

20230725_185505.jpg

20230725_185509.jpg

20230725_185529.jpg

20230725_185608.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...