Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Recently moved to Penrith & all of a sudden im getting the about to spin a big end bearing tapping noise... So wats my options? Im on a fairly limited budget & not really looking for big horsepower. Ive already got N1 turbos, power FC and injectors on the dying engine i can use (just did the timing belt too...) I would be happy with a low km second hand Rb26 but for 4-5grand would i be better off rebuilding mine?? Please help, any advise is much appreciated! Oh btw its a 93 R32 GTR.

Cheers

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Recently moved to Penrith & all of a sudden im getting the about to spin a big end bearing tapping noise... So wats my options? Im on a fairly limited budget & not really looking for big horsepower. Ive already got N1 turbos, power FC and injectors on the dying engine i can use (just did the timing belt too...) I would be happy with a low km second hand Rb26 but for 4-5grand would i be better off rebuilding mine?? Please help, any advise is much appreciated! Oh btw its a 93 R32 GTR.

Cheers

Nick

Just put some new bearings and rings in the bottom end and have everything cleaned up and that should last u for quiet a while. I wouldnt bother changing the rods and pistons if you are on a limited budget as i there would be no point if you are happy with the way it is now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/#findComment-5459922
Share on other sites

if your not planning on making decent power then just do a standard rebuild and you'll have a nice fresh motor, however if you do have a grand or so spare some forged pistons wouldnt go astray, wouldnt worry about the rods unless you want to make big power and rev it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/#findComment-5462325
Share on other sites

clean block, measure bores and crank, light hone or rebore if needed, grind/ linish crank if needed, minimum parts rings & bearings, maybe new pistons as well

check between water jackets and head bolt holes on blocks as the rb motors like to crack there alot

vacuum test, preussure test, change valve stem seals grind head probably then the rest would be labour

a 2nd hand motor you may not have or get told the history and it may not be far from ending up in the same condition its cheaper but its a gamble

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/#findComment-5463050
Share on other sites

ok before you do all this exxy stuff ... since I have lifter noise (tapping) for a min or 2 during cold starts, I've read a lot about possible causes and similar noises and one of them was to do with timing belt not being on tight enough. Since you mentioned that you just changed the timing belt maybe check this out .. could be something as simple as that.

Also check the exhaust manfold studs/gasket - apparently if the gasket is leaking or any of the studs have snapped (common) you will hear a tapping noise until engine warms up.

Then again, maybe it's what you said and I'm just full of it ... but worth a look anyway as you said you're on a budget.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/#findComment-5463314
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Recently moved to Penrith & all of a sudden im getting the about to spin a big end bearing tapping noise... So wats my options? Im on a fairly limited budget & not really looking for big horsepower. Ive already got N1 turbos, power FC and injectors on the dying engine i can use (just did the timing belt too...) I would be happy with a low km second hand Rb26 but for 4-5grand would i be better off rebuilding mine?? Please help, any advise is much appreciated! Oh btw its a 93 R32 GTR.

Cheers

Nick

Could always buy my motor. Need it gone as its taking garage space....

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...=STRK:MESELX:IT

Just a thought if your interested PM me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/#findComment-5463916
Share on other sites

do a standard rebuild. you never know what you're buying when you get a 2nd hand motor. it should cost you around the 4k mark to do a standard rebuild at a workshop. at the same time you can put in the required restrictors for the oil supply to the head.

make sure the following things are done at least:

- rods, pistons and crank are balanced (approx 160-180)

- head serviced (~500) and machined (~60)

- metal head gasket (~400-500)

- oil feed restrictors to the head ($30 + fitting.. they just press in so it shouldnt be a drama)

- tensioner and idler studs replaced. (cheap)

- water pump (~80)

- front (crank) and rear main seals replaced. (cheap)

- as you've got a 93 r32 GTR (as in your profile thingo) you will have a R33 crank so you wont need to get the crank collar done, but its always worth checking just in case the motor has been replaced by an older one at some stage. if you do need to get it done it will be around $300 supplied and fitted.

Above all, get opinions on the workshop you decide to take it to. i wish i did.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/#findComment-5464971
Share on other sites

Standard rebuild on the bottom end only if it really needs it(rings-bearings), If you buy a second hand motor it may not last that long, I mean how many RB,s are not thrashed, might cost a little more but for the peice of mind I would go with a rebuild.

Your pistons-rods and other bolt-ons should be fine, did the water pump get replaced with the timing belt?

Are you sure its the bottom end ??????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337765-new-engine-time/#findComment-5465345
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...