Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah the 9.5 width with the 30 offset .. dunno hey.. they stick out the rears 1.5inches.

some gaurd pumping if its not beyond possible!?

could be an arab emirates camber pipe dream!

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339632-95-nismo-rims-wont-go-on-the-m35/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

1.5 inches.....you can generally get around 50mm of flare on a gaurd without cracking the paint or 'duckbilling' them - any more than that and it's respray time.

sounds like you should have probably done a bit more research on your offsets before you lashed out unfortunately.....

........i'm sure a GT-R owner will give you good money.

yeah the 9.5 width with the 30 offset .. dunno hey.. they stick out the rears 1.5inches.

some gaurd pumping if its not beyond possible!?

could be an arab emirates camber pipe dream!

Really? Is that at standard height? As you lower the car, the tops will tuck in a surprising distance.

I thought Chris (spoolin'12) was running 19x9.5 +35 (or 18x9.5 +35); and his sit inside the guards.

Really? Is that at standard height? As you lower the car, the tops will tuck in a surprising distance.

I thought Chris (spoolin'12) was running 19x9.5 +35 (or 18x9.5 +35); and his sit inside the guards.

I thought that bbenny was running similar size as well

From all accounts 9.5 +30 should fit.

Have you actually seen it or just taken the shops word for it?

Its at the shops and its sticking out 1.6inches on rear with the rim on the car. would require fibreglass front gaurds.. sticks out the front 1.3 inches and 5mm gap on my strut tower.

its not gonna work without either serious camber adjustments and chewing through 2000$ tyres or different front gaurds, rears could be pumped and itd look tough..but one bump on stock suspension its gonna be grinding tyres. not exactly the driveability im going for.

theyre simply too wide.. the guy said itd work on a c34.. not an m35 without some crazy gaurd flaring. he said youd be lucky to get an 8.5 with a 30offset and be better of searching out an 8.

well anyone wants them theyre up for sale.. would work on a r34 gtr. or a 350z without issue.

back to the drawing board.. for some volks with 8 width

i got them for $3350.. anyone wants them they can take them for 3k + postage :P

Edited by PetroDola
Its at the shops and its sticking out 1.6inches on rear with the rim on the car. would require fibreglass front gaurds.. sticks out the front 1.3 inches and 5mm gap on my strut tower.

its not gonna work without either serious camber adjustments and chewing through 2000$ tyres or different front gaurds, rears could be pumped and itd look tough..but one bump on stock suspension its gonna be grinding tyres. not exactly the driveability im going for.

theyre simply too wide.. the guy said itd work on a c34.. not an m35 without some crazy gaurd flaring. he said youd be lucky to get an 8.5 with a 30offset and be better of searching out an 8.

well anyone wants them theyre up for sale.. would work on a r34 gtr. or a 350z without issue.

back to the drawing board.. for some volks with 8 width

i got them for $3350.. anyone wants them they can take them for 3k + postage :ermm:

or you could do this!

post-37023-1286501488_thumb.png

or you could do this!

lol... if only i had that kind of spare cash to just pour down the drain. unfortunately this is not the case ;D

owell i tried and failed! 19's with a 8/8.5 width and 30/35 offset should be on the money

Edited by PetroDola
1.5 inches.....you can generally get around 50mm of flare on a gaurd without cracking the paint or 'duckbilling' them - any more than that and it's respray time.

sounds like you should have probably done a bit more research on your offsets before you lashed out unfortunately.....

........i'm sure a GT-R owner will give you good money.

i was told it would work! and questioned it heaps prior to purchase.

i guess unless you know people who have done it then you probably cant take anyones word for it. i was told 9.5 x 30 offset should work, it didnt, so i will definately be more carefull next time. I mean after all if i had a spare $1000 to go pumping gaurds it'd be a different story. But again it could end up very cop baitish regardless of how tough it looks. so its a bit of a double edged sword there.

even the shop guy questioned the 9.5 width stamp on the rim saying "they look unusually big for a 9.5" *shrugs*

Edited by PetroDola

What size tyres did you use?

And if you are at stock height, lowering it will definitely start to get the wheels tucking in a bit. Guards lipped + pulled or flared, it could still work out. Could be worth checking with a body shop if they can get it working on stock guards before selling off the wheels.

Not sure if you have said, have you seen it yourself? Or have you got some pics of how its looking at the moment?

What size tyres did you use?

And if you are at stock height, lowering it will definitely start to get the wheels tucking in a bit. Guards lipped + pulled or flared, it could still work out. Could be worth checking with a body shop if they can get it working on stock guards before selling off the wheels.

Not sure if you have said, have you seen it yourself? Or have you got some pics of how its looking at the moment?

yeap stock height - could be right with the lowering

seen it myself and took a pic on my phone..245's wer going to be the tyre and it wasnt the tyre that was the issue it was the rim. but havent xfered it onto the pc.. it looked pretty ridiculous.

i could check out some body shops first but im not getting my hopes up :ermm:

Edited by PetroDola
Its at the shops and its sticking out 1.6inches on rear with the rim on the car. would require fibreglass front gaurds.. sticks out the front 1.3 inches and 5mm gap on my strut tower.

its not gonna work without either serious camber adjustments and chewing through 2000$ tyres or different front gaurds, rears could be pumped and itd look tough..but one bump on stock suspension its gonna be grinding tyres. not exactly the driveability im going for.

theyre simply too wide.. the guy said itd work on a c34.. not an m35 without some crazy gaurd flaring. he said youd be lucky to get an 8.5 with a 30offset and be better of searching out an 8.

well anyone wants them theyre up for sale.. would work on a r34 gtr. or a 350z without issue.

back to the drawing board.. for some volks with 8 width

i got them for $3350.. anyone wants them they can take them for 3k + postage :ermm:

Bbenny is running 8.5x 19" + 22 iirc. I'm running 18x8" +30 with plenty of clearance. Hold off selling until you have your lowered suspension fitted. Camber changes everything.

you should try fitting them up, jack one corner up and put a big block of wood under the tyre and let the car back down slowly - you will compress that corner enough to see if the camber will bring it under the gaurds.

guys are right, camber does amazing things. my LS400 had 19x10's hanging out the gaurds on stock suspension, with the coilovers in, i was looking at getting spacers just to get them out more! i reckon i gained about 25mm of clearance from just lowering.

they should be pretty easy to sell though if you don't want the hassle. even get in touch with import monster and see if he will do a swap for some less agressive rims - he has offered me this before.

Sorry to comment after the fact but it seems you were poorly advised on the basis of people who are prepared to run excessive negative camber and put "stretched" tyres on. I don't usually comment on these wheel fitment matters because I am probably considered old fashioned or maybe just old! I hate stretched tyres. Even 245 on a 9.5 rim seems too small for me. I have 235/45 on my 8in rims and when I get my 33 GTR rims (9in) I will be looking for 255 or 265 - whatever is most price effective.

i had 225's on a 10 :ermm:

at the end of the day, if you're not prepared to live with the compromise, just cut your losses and try again.

they are hawt rims, but if you're going to have to molest your gaurds, run excessive camber that chews your tyres up, and leave your lip heavily exposed to gutters and stone chips (trust me this happens, the rear lips catch all the stones that fling off the front tyres and it puts pits all over the lip) - then i'd sell.

if it were a drifted out s13 i'd just say 'bash away and make the car fit the wheels', but it's a bit different with a nice late model car......

Hey Petrodolo

I find it hard to beleive they are sticking out so far - is that with the car on a hoist?

Here is Spoolin's car front and rear pics with 19 x 9.5 +35 all round with 245 tyres. The car has been lowered about 1.5-2"

Yours would be exactly 5mm further out the guards - as you can see it would still fit perfectly. Unless they are 10" wide as your boxes suggested...

photofront.jpg

photorear.jpg

They will fit I have had 9.5 +38 on mine front and rear and thought the backs could go even wider. You either need to lower it and that will fix the problem, OR, the offsets are not what you were quoted. Are the offsets stamped into the rim or are the stickers on there saying what the offset is? I can only say I promise they will fit if they are 9.5 + 30. If not I offer $500. :-)

j/k

They will fit I have had 9.5 +38 on mine front and rear and thought the backs could go even wider. You either need to lower it and that will fix the problem, OR, the offsets are not what you were quoted. Are the offsets stamped into the rim or are the stickers on there saying what the offset is? I can only say I promise they will fit if they are 9.5 + 30. If not I offer $500. :-)

j/k

they definately dont sit like as above where benny mentioned add another inch at least doesnt even come close to that first shot under weight of the car. and im not keen for mad camber on $2k worth of tyres. does look like i should be checking it under lowered suspension though.

they are definately stamped 9.5 all of them. ive checked this multiple times.

Edited by PetroDola

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...