Jump to content
SAU Community

Available Compliance Workshops

Glitch
 Share

Recommended Posts

Glitch Enthusiast

Glitch

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I've been reading up on the site for sometime now and have finally decided to register and pitch a question.

My fiance and I are looking at importing a later model PNM35 Stagea, 3.5L NA, not fussed if its Auto or Manual (though i know Manuals are rare and rather expensive).

The question is if there are any other RAWs offering compliance for the PMN35 or is North Shore Prestige the only ones at the moment? Am I correct in saying that they will only comply cars they have themselves imported too?

Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

~Dom

Edited by Glitch
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339652-available-compliance-workshops/
Share on other sites
Shazza24 Proficient

Shazza24

Posted
Posted

Not sure if vince can help, but lately Stagea's are what he has been importing. Give him a call during business hours if you like.

Import Compliance Systems

22 Pleasant Grove Holden Hill

Ph. 0400 945 645

Fax 08 8263 2300

[email protected]

Glitch Enthusiast

Glitch

Posted
  • Author
Posted
^^^ He only does VQ25DET. To the best of my knowledge, Northshore are the only ones with emissions evidence to plate PM35s currently.

Thanks for the confirmation.

Also, does anyone know if there is any truth to the rumor that they wont comply a vehicle they themselves did not import? They dont currently stock an example of what we're after but im not sure on their prices either; they seem a little high imo.

mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted
^^^ He only does VQ25DET. To the best of my knowledge, Northshore are the only ones with emissions evidence to plate PM35s currently.

Yes that's correct. Nth Shore Prestige are the only ones that hold evidence to plate PM and PNM35's.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the confirmation.

Also, does anyone know if there is any truth to the rumor that they wont comply a vehicle they themselves did not import? They dont currently stock an example of what we're after but im not sure on their prices either; they seem a little high imo.

Why don't you call them yourself and ask?

I have spoken to Ben recently about having them import a PNM35 for me and how much on top of the FOB price it would cost me, but he very, very reluctant to say... which I take as unwilling to do so.

If you prefer a less direct approach to contacting Northshore, register at www.m35Stagea.info and PM him there.

As an aside, I have either bought or had a hand in the purchase of 5x M35's from Northshore and have nothing but the best to say about their service and cars.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted (edited)

Only 5 cars....?!

Yeah, what said above is true to my knowledge, but there is a Mystery car popped up, up here that I can't explain. The PNM35 is a great car, the NM35 guys will hate me for it, but when I drove both, the Series 2 just seemed so much more rounded and nice to drive. Def. a better interior, and a fair bit more parts support with a VQ35de.

Talk to Ben. He might be a bit scattered atm, they are moving premise about 6 km up the road. He'll point you in the right direction!

+1 happy customer!

edit for link...

Edited by PN-Mad
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

lol... we don't hate you for it Alex, it is a newer model so it should be more rounded.

Best be careful with other brokers advertising the availability of the PM35 Stagea's... I seem to recall J-Spec have advertised on two separate occasions that Stagea's were available when they clearly weren't (2004 build VQ25det - cannot pass emissions and they advertised the VQ35de Stageas availability last year based on a dodgy workshop lol)

Just raising it so past mistakes are not repeated by buyers that are unaware of the situation.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

For Nth Shore Prestige with other workshops having evidence for PNM35 at the auctions they have competition to a certain extent as it isn't a common car, they committed the money to get them approved so to keep there bussiness viable in my view they have made a good bussiness decision.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

I guess there is a difference between advertised online generically (with jap pics or whatever i.e JSpec) and actually having the Car in Brisbane.

Possibly great big stuff up...who knows?

Glitch Enthusiast

Glitch

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why don't you call them yourself and ask?

I have spoken to Ben recently about having them import a PNM35 for me and how much on top of the FOB price it would cost me, but he very, very reluctant to say... which I take as unwilling to do so.

If you prefer a less direct approach to contacting Northshore, register at www.m35Stagea.info and PM him there.

As an aside, I have either bought or had a hand in the purchase of 5x M35's from Northshore and have nothing but the best to say about their service and cars.

Not a bad idea, kind sir. :devil:

Thanks for your opinion too, appreciate it.

Glitch Enthusiast

Glitch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the opinions and help guys, really appreciate it.

I'll be giving North Shore a call shortly to query if they will comply a car that they didnt import themselves and post up the results.

Once again, many thanks :devil:

Glitch Enthusiast

Glitch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well,

I've just gotten off the phone with Ben who advised that they are not offering compliance at this stage for cars they themselves haven't imported.

North Shore would be happy to locate a suitable vehicle and import it but it would be priced as if it were one of their stock and couldn't give me an estimate of their service fee as such.

Might have to have a word with the missus regards what we're actually after and search for an appropriate example for them to source.

:whistling:

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

fair enough if you ask me. it make the most sense from their perspective. it would be nice though if they'd at least quote a fixed 'margin' above car cost etc so you can figure out what kind of car you can buy FOB to end up at a landed and complied cost but I guess they like a bit of mystery.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...