Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

VN is actually the fastest Holden 6 ever made lol

VN's are soo disgustingly ugly imo...

I was talking about power to weight, VN is 125kW to 1300kg (96kW per tonne), VS is 147kW to 1385kg (106kW per tonne). VS also has better economy, IRS (optional) ABS, airbags etc.

VN: http://redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.as...id=129F692865E0

VS: http://redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.as...id=129F692865E0

edit: VS II's are even better at 1372kg or a ute at 1350kg (possibly sacrifice handling...)

Edited by SKiT_R31
Stock for stock?

Highly doubt it on a track, unless we're talking about some track without straights.. FWIW, NA 6 speed JZA80s can manage 0-100 in 6secs.

I don't...

I had a stock R33 GTS-T (Note the TURBO!) and I was running 0.2 - 0.3 seconds slower then a Honda Civic at Wakefield... And just to put it in the ball park, he was doing mid 1:14...

I'd go the MX5 or Civic...

Remember bathurst? The minis were banned because the V8s could only catch them down the straights... Through the corners they just pulled away... Same thing the MX5 and Civic does...

I didnt say mx5 or s13 cause the op said power... lolz

Monetary figure is important here... Best bet is R32/R33/R34 RB25DE or a NA Supra if you wanted to bring common sense into the equation...

Heh, by power I meant something with a little go. A 1.1L Daihatsu whilst light and nimble will be useless with its 20seconds 0-100kph acceleration.

I have had a bit of fun lately in a hotted up Fiat 124... Cheap to buy, cheap to mod, reliable, light, handle brilliantly and you can do whatever you want later on - turbo, supercharge, V8 - because they are such a popular chassis to modify. Pick the 1800cc over the 2000cc for some added value.

EDIT: Oh and they have an all alloy, twin cam, twin carb (dellorto), five bolt main four cylinder... Pretty damn good in my book and SR20's fit in so easily its not funny - they even look the same as the fiat/alfa engine!

DOUBLE EDIT: Plus its Italian so the chicks will love it and you will have many happy sexy fun times...

Edited by R33_Dude

always had a soft spot for the Fiat 124bc.

or this, my uncle has one as a rally car that he hires out (Abarth replica)

97458d1207187590-wanted-fiat-131-brava-131-abarth-2.jpg

Mind you, good luck finding even a 4 door in good nic :D

the OP didnt mention what level or type of track use (from what i could see). Overall the mx5 is probably the best option but there's the question of whether you'd want it as your daily. On the plus side there's lots of support for them, plenty around that havent been in the hnads of 17 year olds and they have their own race series - something that is a big issue if he wants to go beyond the odd casual trackday.

Some of the front wheel drive cars would do well but are out if he wants to get out on a skidpan or try drifting (in an NA?) so maybe we need more info.

I'd get a 300zx you will learn more from it it will probably be in an unrepairable crash.

I have a great suggestion best find out where it was purchased from before mentioning.

simlpy because i cant believe the price.

remember your p-plate days thinking your invincible til something actually goes wrong.

also i don't think racing at a track makes you drive any more docile on the street.

you would be saving money by having a track dedicated car by taking someone else's work.

http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=15217

I'd get a 300zx you will learn more from it it will probably be in an unrepairable crash.

I have a great suggestion best find out where it was purchased from before mentioning.

simlpy because i cant believe the price.

remember your p-plate days thinking your invincible til something actually goes wrong.

also i don't think racing at a track makes you drive any more docile on the street.

you would be saving money by having a track dedicated car by taking someone else's work.

http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=15217

<insert engine out joke here>

My bet:

Mini Cooper S (Replica) or a Leyland Clubman GT (replica). Both cheap cars to build. Parts are cheap and plentiful. Can be hideously quick in good hands. Very good car to learn about engines, handling, driving techniques in. Easily modified. Good on fuel. Chicks love em (though getting it on in one can be a lesson in yoga).

Loved my race Cooper S (replica)... Building another now and looking out for some to sit in the shed as spares.

post-43534-1287017590_thumb.jpg

I'd get a 300zx you will learn more from it it will probably be in an unrepairable crash.

I have a great suggestion best find out where it was purchased from before mentioning.

simlpy because i cant believe the price.

remember your p-plate days thinking your invincible til something actually goes wrong.

also i don't think racing at a track makes you drive any more docile on the street.

you would be saving money by having a track dedicated car by taking someone else's work.

http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=15217

You will learn heaps about the VG engine because you will always have to take the engine out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...