Jump to content
SAU Community

"dimple" Neodymium Magnetic Sump Plug Group Buy!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok well let's shoot for 30 since the numbers are filling so quickly. If we get to 30+ it will be $30 Delivered Australia wide.

Now for the diff and gearbox plugs. I have read that they are the same as the sump plug being a M12 x 1.25. Can any one confirm this?

Supposibly most Nissan's run an M12 x 1.25 in their diff, gearbox and sump.

This would make it nice and easy since it would be the same bolt so we can just get 3 of them :)

Also I should have a photo in the next few days of our actual new SS bolt since they don't have photos on their website of them yet.

For the list i'm only writing the people for the sump plug for now. Once we have confirmation that the diff and gearbox take the same bolt I will update the list.

BUY LIST

1. PMR33

2. 75COUPE

3. BASTI

4. MOODLES2

5. 33DRIVER

6. 89CAL

7. DARK-KNIGHT

8. PWND

9. R32MAN09

10. LUKAS 33

11. CHRIS32R

12. GIMPS-R34

13. FINELINE

14. N1GTR

15. SKINS

16. THENIG

17. BLACKR32

18. TYPEVU

19. J34

20. PANZER

21. AHH 33 S2

22. PISTOL-PETE

23. ...............

24. ...............

25. ...............

26. ...............

27. ...............

28. ...............

29. ...............

30. ...............

Edited by PM-R33
Ok well let's shoot for 30 since the numbers are filling so quickly. If we get to 30+ it will be $30 Delivered Australia wide.

Now for the diff and gearbox plugs. I have read that they are the same as the sump plug being a M12 x 1.25. Can any one confirm this?

Supposibly most Nissan's run an M12 x 1.25 in their diff, gearbox and sump.

This would make it nice and easy since it would be the same bolt so we can just get 3 of them :)

I'm pretty sure the thread for diff and gearbox will be around 18 x 1.5 or 20 x 1.5. The diff drain plug is the same and the gearbox one but it's 110% not a M12 x 1.25

Ahh damn that sucks. Stupid internet lying to me! I found a photo of a S13 diff and bolt and that was definetely a M12 x 1.25, but I guess ours isn't.

It's been over a year since I had mine out and I can't remember how large they were. I remember them being a square drive but that's about it.

The diff and gearbox plugs aren't bsb threads or something? because they are a tapered thread........????

Someone should confirm if that is the case :)

The diff and gearbox plugs aren't bsb threads or something? because they are a tapered thread........????

Someone should confirm if that is the case :thumbsup:

I think you are referring to BSPT.. BSP is what you are talking about.. and the T is for tapered.. British Standard Pipe Taper..

i know i shouldnt be spending any more money on my car seeing that its up for sale but, dammit cant help buying stuff for it lol so count me in too !!

Also Phil, does your list take into account people buying more than one? I can see a few people have said they'll take two, so this should count for 2 hence bringing price down as we'll hit 30 earlier :D this is assuming it's the seller offering the discount.

BUY LIST

1. PMR33

2. 75COUPE

3. BASTI

4. MOODLES2

5. 33DRIVER

6. 89CAL

7. DARK-KNIGHT

8. PWND

9. R32MAN09

10. LUKAS 33

11. CHRIS32R

12. GIMPS-R34

13. FINELINE

14. N1GTR

15. SKINS

16. THENIG

17. BLACKR32

18. TYPEVU

19. J34

20. PANZER

21. AHH 33 S2

22. PISTOL-PETE

23. LOKIR33

24. LOKIR33

25. KEVZILLA

26. GORDOSKYLINE

27. TROZZLE

28. RACE 24

29. ...............

30. ...............

Two more spots to make 30 guys! I can't take to much over 30 as to keep it under $1000 so we don't pay a customs fee. I will start sending out my bank details for payment and please reply with your full name and postal address (I have a lot of your guys details from the last group buys so those people obviously don't need to tell me again).

Also Phil, does your list take into account people buying more than one? I can see a few people have said they'll take two, so this should count for 2 hence bringing price down as we'll hit 30 earlier :D this is assuming it's the seller offering the discount.

Lokir33 is the only one getting two isn't he?

I know people have mentioned they want the gearbox and diff plugs aswell, but no one has confirmed their size yet lol. So for now lets just do the sump plugs and once we can confirm the gearbox and diff I can do another one or something?

Edited by PM-R33
I think you are referring to BSPT.. BSP is what you are talking about.. and the T is for tapered.. British Standard Pipe Taper..

haha yeh I had a stab. I play with to many fittings and never bother learning much about the tapered ones. Just remember BSP, except I think I accidentally call it BSB.... anyway, the taper could be in the plug I guess not the gearbox as well..... I'd measure mine but I dont feel like paying for some more gearbox oil at the moment. :)

As you can see I've probably made stuff even more confusing with that little speech so I'll stop talking now :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...