Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have looked into this alot on the site but want some real world figures and advice on twins and silgles on rb26s

I have 256 hks cams with a built motor so looking for a setup that is a good alrounder with good response but some where in the 300,350 kw power mabe more where are people seeing full boost n what psi vs rpm on what setups?

I was thinking of going either a twin,high mount with smallist turbos or

35r 6boost setup

Its just rear wheel drive as well

Thanks guys

mate i have gone for tomei type b cam and springs built motor adjustable cam gears and i am going a pair of garrett 2860-5 turbos which are a direct bolt up with supporting mods and i am looking at the 400 kw mark and it will be on full boost by about 3500 rpm and my engine bay will look pretty stock helps keep the police of your back

I have 256 hks cams with a built motor so looking for a setup that is a good alrounder with good response but some where in the 300,350 kw power mabe more where are people seeing full boost n what psi vs rpm on what setups?

300-330rwkw go for 2860 -9, the most response you will get out of it for that power.

350-400rwkw go for 2860 -5, a little laggier yet lots of power.

Best part of the above is it will still look like a stock RB26.

If your heart is set on highmount go 35R as you said, expect 350ishrwkw with completely different delivery to the twins. Defect mania too.

It has been covered a thousand times, so just choose from the above and get reading:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t93880.html

Have high mount GT3582R on ETM manifold. is on boost and makes full boost quicker than standard twins and power delivery is much better.

I have never had an issue with cops even with the screamer pipe in plain view pretty much. Also if your doing the majority of the work yourself i would go for the single as it is a hell of a lot easier to work on and maintain that twin low mounts...

Thanks guys I have read all the dyno thread and graphs trying to work out what I want, I am not set on either mainly real life street driving and when you guys are seeing positive pressure and full boost at what rpm.

I think the stock twins seem a little laggy but don't know if that is usual this is my first 26

Thanks guys I have read all the dyno thread and graphs trying to work out what I want, I am not set on either mainly real life street driving and when you guys are seeing positive pressure and full boost at what rpm.

I think the stock twins seem a little laggy but don't know if that is usual this is my first 26

I thought the same with mine as well to be abit laggy however that was coming from a r33 gtst with a stock turbo which comes on full boost about 1200 rpm earlyer than mine did due to my tune and set up. It comes down to how your car is set up and if you have the supporting mods like cams and adjustable cam gears it will help it to spool up quicker.

The reason i didnt go a hi mount single as i wanted to keep it stock looking i like the idea of having 400kw and when a cop pops my bonnet and he will see a box covering my pods and a catch can and that is all that will look out of place. Everything else he wont be able to pick. High mount turbo on the other hand they know it is not standard and are fair more likely to defect your ass and you dont want to go down the road of dealing with the epa or the decc what ever you wanna call them. At the end of the day it is your choice, chose what you want and what will make you happy, single is easier to work on yes but comes if its own dramas to.

I am coming from a gtst so yeah seemed laggy, It is in a 4 door gtst standard from the outside so I don't really have cop attention as much as a coupe or gtr.

So both the twins -5 and 35r is on boost between 3-4 k

mate i have gone for tomei type b cam and springs built motor adjustable cam gears and i am going a pair of garrett 2860-5 turbos which are a direct bolt up with supporting mods and i am looking at the 400 kw mark and it will be on full boost by about 3500 rpm and my engine bay will look pretty stock helps keep the police of your back

-5 at full boost by 3500rpm?? how much boost u planning on running for 400kw??

yerp to my knowledge yes. But you have to have aftermarket dumps and front pipe it helps alot for spool up time the stock r32 and r33 gtr dumps and abit to restrictive, the r34 ones are pretty bloody good thats what i am trying to get ahold of now i dont like the idea of spending $800 odd on dump pipes alone for say tomei or hks items ect

bigger dumps wont help spool up time, it will increase flow and reduce back pressure meaning more lag but more power/kick

once ive converted my gtr to single then ill be able to comment from experience but for now i cant :D

I can personally say i have had a cop looking at my engine and say oh wow looks good to me have a good night son and on i went.

End of the day cop attention is drawn by how you drive your car around town. I have my single conversion engineered so i am covered for that one.

If you do it right then you will be covered. I personally need to replace my decat pipe with a decent high flow cat and car will be legal..... Ohhh thats right except for the screamer lol

RB26 + Screamer= EPIC WIN :D

bigger dumps wont help spool up time, it will increase flow and reduce back pressure meaning more lag but more power/kick

once ive converted my gtr to single then ill be able to comment from experience but for now i cant :worship:

You do realize that turbos are spun because of the pressure drop across them arent you

Ie the higher pressure in the exhaust manifold versus the lower pressure on the other side of the turbo makes air move thus spining up the turbo

There for a better flowing dump pipe is going to flow more and have a lower pressure in it than the stock one

The difference in pressure therefor is higher and the turbo spools sooner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...