Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I really hope it's worth it scandy.

Remember back to the early release blurbs about how the integrated bov, boost control solenoid and IW housing options were supposed to make it easier and cheaper to fit one!

So do I mate. Got the bill from Andrew today for the manifold and all the rest. So far this exercise has set me back around $4k... Not bad for something that started out as $100 modify and replace project.

So do I mate. Got the bill from Andrew today for the manifold and all the rest. So far this exercise has set me back around $4k... Not bad for something that started out as $100 modify and replace project.

LOL ahh... cars.

"and all ill have to do is change this $5...... $5,000 part" lol yep.

I sold my last car and bought my current car complete, every mod I wanted. Now it only has scraps of the original setup left as nearly everything needed to be redone lol.

Keen to see your results tho, Its a nice kit up you have going :thumbsup:

Pretty well.

More shit. Car came home tonight.

Intake;

IMG_9012.jpg

Starts at 3" and necks down to meet the 2.5" (?) intake. Trying to source a Pipercross filter with a Z32 mount. Then it's back to Andrew for any necessary mods, and to make up a decent bracket and close it off.

IMG_9011.jpg

IMG_9010.jpg

Lobster back hot pipe. Complicated little thing. 12 pieces.

Both will likely get coated wrinkle black to match the rest of the pipework.

And finally, the dump pipe.

IMG_9013.jpg

I'll have to find a bung for the o2 port. Only there for tuning. I won't be running a sensor.

The dump, pipe, and cat are all 1 piece. So I only have 2 flanges in the entire system. Lovely.

Oh yeah, if anyone in here knows their wiring and SR's, specifically ignition, shoot me a PM.

  • 2 weeks later...

This thread started 16 months ago..

I want a 8374. But I'm not prepared to wait for the next decade to get it..

What the Fire trUCK is going on..

Well i got my full race mani and BW 83/75 s300sx turbo in about 2 months, and it was only that long because the mani was made to order

Is there some sorta mad waiting list for the EFR's?

production issues actually, havent you read the thread start to end?

no point being interested if you havent

Yea righto mate

I've read the thread and know there's issues, just can't believe there's still a massive wait on a turbo that bearly anyone has..

There's was meant to be a "still" somewhere in my last statement :thumbsup:

lol i guess the 'still' would change everything.

i would assume BW arent in a big rush to roll them out anymore because of the prior issues. they are more likely to provide to a smaller client base for testing (workshops/race teams).

these are still on the map for me but as selfish as it is i want to see more results that show they are more phenomenal than the competitors.

Its very frustrating.

I've wanted one of these since I heard about them..

My other options BW s300 8375.. Bullseye S362 (virtually the same thing) or a gt35 with divided t4 housing.

All of which are proven performers.. And are all roughly the sme money delivered to my door..

Just not sure which would be the best on a daily street driven 1.5j.. :blink:

Just saw this too.. New for 2012.. looks like it could be a better option.

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-airwerks/borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo.html

Edited by --Redwork--

Awesome, keen as to hear how that goes... Whats the rest of the setup?

2.6

Ross crank trigger

Link ECU

aftermarket ignitior (cant remeber what brand) need it to run with Link

sard 800s

Full race twinscroll manifold

260cams

Koyo intercooler

Jun pump

adj cam gears

4 inch dump with high flow cat into 3.5 rear

Just saw this too.. New for 2012.. looks like it could be a better option.

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-airwerks/borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo.html

Both the 83-75 and the FMW are excellent bang-for-the-buck, great power and incredibly reliable. The FMW turbo is basically the "new for 2012" version of the S300SX 83-75. it uses an EFR 8374 compressor wheel combined with 2 different blade shape turbine wheels depending on what the application is. here is a photo of the comp wheel:

borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo-1.jpg

our customers who cant wait for the EFR 8374 are generally using this turbo

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

Both the 83-75 and the FMW are excellent bang-for-the-buck, great power and incredibly reliable. The FMW turbo is basically the "new for 2012" version of the S300SX 83-75. it uses an EFR 8374 compressor wheel combined with 2 different blade shape turbine wheels depending on what the application is. here is a photo of the comp wheel:

borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo-1.jpg

our customers who cant wait for the EFR 8374 are generally using this turbo

So benefits in response and top end in the new wheel design?

Can it be bought and swapped into a 84/75 housing Geoff?

Looks cool to say the least

The S300 FMW shares the identical turbine housing to the s300sx 83-75, 84-75 and 88-75, so yes you can share the turbine housings. the compressor housings you can not swap however.

if you decided to get one, i would suggest to get it with a different housing A/R and different blade shape than the turbo you currently have. the reason is that BW balances the non-BB turbo components individually, this allows you to mix and match between turbine wheels and housings on your turbo, without the need for a rebalance. these S300 turbos are extremely easy to disassemble and swap a turbine wheel on, just 2 wrenches on a left-hand-thread is all it takes

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

So to confirm iI could keep my turbine housing but I would need to swap out the compressor to match up with the new wheel design?

Is there any back to back testing of the old wheel design vs new?

So to confirm iI could keep my turbine housing but I would need to swap out the compressor to match up with the new wheel design?

Is there any back to back testing of the old wheel design vs new?

BTW id be keen to do some back to back testing of the new wheel if i was to be supplied with one :whistling:

i got one of your Full race manifolds as well :thumbsup:

Edited by GTR_JOEY

So the compressor housing can't be swapped because the inducer size of the wheel is bigger... Yes.??

Comparing the 2 compressor maps it looks like the new wheel moves more air even at low boost levels.. But I'm no expert at reading comp maps... :wacko:

So to confirm iI could keep my turbine housing but I would need to swap out the compressor to match up with the new wheel design?

Is there any back to back testing of the old wheel design vs new?

You keep your existing turbine housing but its a new CHRA.

The compressor is different and uses a different housing to suit, yet the turbine can use the exiting 75 housings despite being different.

My take on it is you can buy both the front and rear wheels along with a compressor housing and put it all together yourself.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...