Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's an RB25 result.

Pretty happy with the increase.

EFR 7670 1.05 A/R Twin Scroll

attachicon.gifr33 efr7670 vs hta3076.jpg

Red = EFR 7670

Blue = HTA 3076

Need stiffer springs in the gates to bring boost on earlier and hold more boost later in the rpm.

7psi springs in EFR vs 14psi spring in HTA

Awesome result, and thanks for sharing - had been meaning to see how you are going with this, and if you'll be at WTAC this year!

Even more jealous than ever, before this BOTH turbos were what were in my head likely to be a couple of the best things you could put on an RB25 road/response car so this is good to see. The slightly laggier to spool but more power per psi thing from the 1.05 EFR were both things I expected to see, but to be honest I didn't expect THAT much of a power difference. Very impressive.

I thought your HTA made more than that, for some reason? And how does it drive, if you have? I'm guessing you won't be feeling the extra little bit of lag the dyno is implying.

  • Like 2

Need stiffer springs in the gates to bring boost on earlier and hold more boost later in the rpm.

7psi springs in EFR vs 14psi spring in HTA

Maybe try a 4 port BSC, should do what you need instead of waiting for a new spring

Awesome result, and thanks for sharing - had been meaning to see how you are going with this, and if you'll be at WTAC this year!

Even more jealous than ever, before this BOTH turbos were what were in my head likely to be a couple of the best things you could put on an RB25 road/response car so this is good to see. The slightly laggier to spool but more power per psi thing from the EFR were both things I expected to see, but to be honest I didn't expect THAT much of a power difference. Very impressive.

I thought your HTA made more than that, for some reason? And how does it drive, if you have? I'm guessing you won't be feeling the extra little bit of lag the dyno is implying.

I hope to be at WTAC, only yesterday I was mopping up a huge oil spill under the rear of my car. Although I couldn't see where it came from it was definately diff oil..

Bloody thing, been really good of late. Did a 60sec lap of Wakefield and went under 2min on the long Brabham track at EC recently. All was looking good.

The EFR made heaps more, very happy as I was a little nervous about the change, should be a beast on the track now.

That's on petrol, the HTA was tuned on both 98 and E85.

The EFR will only run 98 as the car is mainly for enduros and short races etc. Fuel economy is important and really the only reason why I changed turbos as I needed more power on 98 to make the car quicker.

Shit. That's a really good result on petrol, for both really. Shows how much better the EFR is on the exhaust side especially!

Again, thanks for sharing - food for thought.

what manifold is the turbo on?

6 Boost - Twin Scroll - Twin Gates

How much more would be in it with stiffer gate springs?

That would be interesting!

Given it's on 98 probably not much. It bleeds down to around 20psi, if it could hold 25psi you could probably add 20-30hp, maybe a touch more ??

Wow, awesome results! Thanks for sharing!!

When you drive it, make sure to report back and let us all know how different if feels on the road.. should beat the crap out of the HTA for transient response.

Edited by Tonba

6 Boost - Twin Scroll - Twin Gates

Given it's on 98 probably not much. It bleeds down to around 20psi, if it could hold 25psi you could probably add 20-30hp, maybe a touch more ??

Jus to confirm; the HTA was T3 open, was it not?

I just want to make sure I'm looking at the thing correctly. Don't want to mislead myself in case this isn't apples and apples.

Jus to confirm; the HTA was T3 open, was it not?

I just want to make sure I'm looking at the thing correctly. Don't want to mislead myself in case this isn't apples and apples.

Yep, that'll be the old 0.82 T3 housing it had - same as Mat's... 445whp/332rwkw (Oz dyno) one of the highest power figures on pump gas on an RB25 I've heard of with that hotside! I'm picking that's where a lot of the extra power came from, the 1.05a/r T4 is going to be helping out a bit with that cake and eat it too business the EFR is doing.

Its not going to be the only part of the puzzle though, very impressive result from the EFR. Makes me sigh, yet again - that I lost patience with Borg Warner sorting themselves out with these things... if they hadn't had those issues I'd probably never have given up on my car and instead been running around with a setup like this :(

Hi guys. I am a bit behind with this thread and apology in advance if it's already mentioned.

I am setting up the boost solenoid setting on the motec and for some reason can't find the specific frequency of the BW boost control solenoid despite some serious search on the net

.

From what I recall seeing ....very scantly atm since there are so many things on my plate....that it's around 28 Hertz.

Could someone kindly let me know what is the correct setting for this boost control valve?

Thanks in advance.

Yep, that'll be the old 0.82 T3 housing it had - same as Mat's... 445whp/332rwkw (Oz dyno) one of the highest power figures on pump gas on an RB25 I've heard of with that hotside! I'm picking that's where a lot of the extra power came from, the 1.05a/r T4 is going to be helping out a bit with that cake and eat it too business the EFR is doing.

Its not going to be the only part of the puzzle though, very impressive result from the EFR. Makes me sigh, yet again - that I lost patience with Borg Warner sorting themselves out with these things... if they hadn't had those issues I'd probably never have given up on my car and instead been running around with a setup like this :(

At least theres a couple of us still winning on 98. My knock threshold seemed to be up around the 27psi mark. Makes the hassle of E85 a lot less appealing than it already was.

.82 open to 1.05 divided; am not too sure much could be attributed to top end power, I think they would lay in a fairly similar area. Though I'd believe the T3 variant of the 7670 would compress the left hand half of the curve a few hundred RPM.

Still noteworthy as it is really winning on power for 98. Am curious what sort of turbine speeds would be seen from a healthy 3L on the T3 open... I may be conjuring something of that spec sooner than expected.

Ah found the answer lol ... 32Hz :)

Lucky you found that. As clued as everyone on here is I highly doubt anyone would have known off the top of their head.

Edited by GTScotT

At least theres a couple of us still winning on 98. My knock threshold seemed to be up around the 27psi mark. Makes the hassle of E85 a lot less appealing than it already was.

.82 open to 1.05 divided; am not too sure much could be attributed to top end power, I think they would lay in a fairly similar area. Though I'd believe the T3 variant of the 7670 would compress the left hand half of the curve a few hundred RPM.

Still noteworthy as it is really winning on power for 98. Am curious what sort of turbine speeds would be seen from a healthy 3L on the T3 open... I may be conjuring something of that spec sooner than expected.

Have you got yours all fixed up now? Heard about that, sucked to hear :( By your comments, have you got a new power figure now - or you are referring to the old 290ishkw?

I partly think the EFR7670 probably has a bit more turbine, before you even get into the fact that it's got the 1.05a/r TS hotside - but before they reach their limits I've seen a few cars even with similar turbines make more lb for lb on that kind of hotside comparison, even if "all in" the peak numbers don't necessarily end up being as different. I'm guessing that on E85 it may not be so much of a difference, though could be wrong there. I tend to agree on the T3 open likely to come on a bit earlier than the 1.05, not sure if it'll be on before the HTA or not but I'm guessing it'll bring the results a lot closer in spool and power to the HTA - if not equal to or better than in both cases. Would be interesting to see, though tbh the 1.05 seems like a winner.

On the Full-Race site there is a dyno of a Supra with the 1.05a/r housing doing 524whp on petrol: http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-7670-turbo.html

Finally finished with all of the 96 pages!

Very interesting turbos that BW churned out.

I'm currently in research mode for my next turbo to buy, because my R34 GTT needs a new one.

The one thing I hoped to get answered from this thread:

Can you run the EFR turbos with an old ECU like an Apexi Power FC without fiddling around too much?

My tuner hasn't got his hands on any EFR turbos yet and is a bit reluctant to first try one out in a customer car...

He specifically stated that the EFR turbos were different compared to older turbos in boost control and/or waste gate control and the ECU would need input ports that the Power FC doesn't have.

Can't find any reference to that in this thread nor through googling :(

I do think he knows what he is talking about and has has got extended experience with Borg Warner turbos. The shops owners run 3x S366 on two Supras and a R34 TKR.

Anyone care to clear this up? ;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...