Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

Noob question. Have some Bilstein height adjustable circlip shock absorbers fitted in my car. At the time of fitting, i set the circlip at preferred height and tightened the tophat to create some pre-load on the spring.

Wanted to lower the car a bit more and hence adjusted the circlip a notch down. Upon doing so, I noticed that my spring was now fully extended with no preload when car was still jacked up. ie. the spring could move up/down the shock and turn.

Obviously with the car off the jack, the spring is compressed under the weight of the car.

I just wanted to know, should I pull out the shock and screw down the top hat (im assuming to the bottom of the thread to achieve any preload on the spring (if possible?)

Or is it okay to have the spring fully extended and able to move around when car is jacked up? Should the spring always be under some load regardless if on the car?

Would like to know whether I need to pull out the shocks or just adjust the circlip height regardles of any preload on the spring.

Thank you!

unfortunately life is not that simple.

top nut first....you should always do it up tight. while a side effect may have been preloading the spring in your case, it's job is to hold the shock assembly together.

re spring height and being captive....if the spring is too short to remain captive, you can either ignore it and live with the knocking noise (lots of race cars do but I think it's too annoying in a road car), or get helper springs. The helper spring is a very light spring that stops the main spring rattling.

pat's car aint that low roy... :ermm:

its 320 on the front :ermm: and 340 on the rear. Want to lower the rear down, but when adjusting circlip it made the spring captive!

Ill pull out the shock and tighten the tophat further down! Thanks for the help

I had the bilstein's in the rear of my car before i got coilovers. I had the same problem the spring was too short so i zip tied the rear of the spring to the "seat" of the shock, just incase i went over a bump and the spring came out of its seat.

I know its not safe and a zip tie wouldnt do much but it might help if the spring was to jump out over a bump!

hahah i see....can't exactly be surprised if something isn't right at the hight :P have you calculated the roll centre and roll couple?

you referring to 320mm height for track days? I'll be adjusting back to 340-350mm for trackdays which seems to be the best height for r32's in terms of handling.

If i drop a circlip height and retighten the hat to take up some pre-load and then decide to flick the circlip back up (without re-adjusting the top hat) would this be causing any harm?

Im assuming the spring will be under more pre-load as the distance between spring seat and tophat has reduced. Would I need to unwind the tophat? How much load should be forced onto the spring?

Cheers for help again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...