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how'd you go with this, mine are borken and need to be removed too

My driver's side one decided to come off at 110kph: not much fun holding it against the a-pillar in traffic, whilst trying to change gears, indicate and and steer...!!

pulled the rest off when I stopped, and you're right: they must have used glue, tape, chewing gum, and dried weetbix to secure those suckers! Thus far, I've just left thr dregs attached (ugly), but since I have a spare downstairs, and the roof rails arrived, I think I'll leave it to the pros to remove what's left.

I am undecided whether to remove the passenger side as well, or fit the fresh driver's side one- pillarless windows has me concerned about not having any protection from water/wind noise... opinions? Has anyone removed their weather strips? notice much difference?

I am undecided whether to remove the passenger side as well, or fit the fresh driver's side one- pillarless windows has me concerned about not having any protection from water/wind noise... opinions? Has anyone removed their weather strips? notice much difference?

No, but after having them on the Stag I wish I had them on the 32!

got the plenum spacer installed tonight.thanks to iamhe77, although it didnt all go to plan and was being a bitch (stupid studs that dont want to come out) in the end we settled for leaving out 2 bolts. hoping it wouldnt leak..(arranged to fix it in the next few weeks)

THE VERDICT....

THE.... BEST... MOD... EVER

ive only got a cat back zaust and f**k. the car HAULS ASS. seriously. soooooooo much nicer to drive. it just goes. theres so much torque. i thought the car went well before this spacer. but wow.

DEFINATLEY WORTH THE MONEY... DEFINATLEY!!!!

seriously get your kit. and get it installed.

rapt!

Glad you're happy with my kit mate. :(

Still can't believe how quiet your Blitz cat-back is! Very nice car :banana:

My driver's side one decided to come off at 110kph: not much fun holding it against the a-pillar in traffic, whilst trying to change gears, indicate and and steer...!!

pulled the rest off when I stopped, and you're right: they must have used glue, tape, chewing gum, and dried weetbix to secure those suckers! Thus far, I've just left thr dregs attached (ugly), but since I have a spare downstairs, and the roof rails arrived, I think I'll leave it to the pros to remove what's left.

I am undecided whether to remove the passenger side as well, or fit the fresh driver's side one- pillarless windows has me concerned about not having any protection from water/wind noise... opinions? Has anyone removed their weather strips? notice much difference?

I removed mine after they both cracked down the entire length of the strips, haven't noticed an increase of wind noise really. Although I normally dont hear any wind noise anyway, with the combination of loud exhaust and music always on. I haven't had any problems with water leaks after taking them off though.

The remnants of the double sided tape is a pain in the arse to get off as well, I still haven't got all of it off.

Well I hadn't had a chance to remove all the shit that my whether strips left behind

hopefully the thief has a spare couple of hours and gets stuck into the job of removing it

then gives it a service,another wash and polish and delivers it back to my shed

people sometimes call me a dreamer

some interior mods: FHRX in Sydney installed eclipse 7" TV with nav + headrest units. had to install kanatech dash kit to get the double din in there, well worth it though!

still trying to work out what suspension will go into the AXIS.. tried getting jap bilstein kit but not available..?? any suggestions?

some interior mods: FHRX in Sydney installed eclipse 7" TV with nav + headrest units. had to install kanatech dash kit to get the double din in there, well worth it though!

still trying to work out what suspension will go into the AXIS.. tried getting jap bilstein kit but not available..?? any suggestions?

BC's?

well i'm fairly boring compared to the rest of you

did an oil drop and filter change

bought a tv/gps/dvd etc headunit to finaly replace the jap item which has ceased to function.

gearing up to take it for an adelaide to phillip island road trip mid october.

thinking of doing the 100 000 km service prior the trip but not enough time, rather do it later and not rushed.

the old girl loves chasing white lines :P

Don't leave that in for too long Dave being that it is mineral based - regardless of what they say on the bottle/website.

It was crap in my wife's Magna after 6,000kms (engine became noticeably rattlier the longer it was in there) and only 3.8L came out (5L went in) when it was dumped after 8,000kms.

It will probably be okay for 5,000kms, but don't push it further than that.

Yeah right, thanks for the heads up. I think I'll get it right with oil one of these days, I feel like been changing my mind constantly. But I guess there's no one size that fits all so to speak.

Yeah right, thanks for the heads up. I think I'll get it right with oil one of these days, I feel like been changing my mind constantly. But I guess there's no one size that fits all so to speak.

i know i keep saying it but sougi s6000 is good for most applications

its a 10w40 which is perfect for australian conditions, its got a lot of detergents in the oil so it will clean it out the motor nicely and its cheap and australian made

i know i keep saying it but sougi s6000 is good for most applications

its a 10w40 which is perfect for australian conditions, its got a lot of detergents in the oil so it will clean it out the motor nicely and its cheap and australian made

Interestingly, I spoke to one of the reps at the Penrith Gulf Western branch; which I believe is their Head office. Told him what I had, he recommended their Protecta Ultra 15w50 Semi Synthetic.

His reasoning was that the mineral oil content provides a far better "metal wetting " than a Full Synthetic, and the 30% synthetic component provided excellent shear resistance, for extended life. He did agree the Full Synthetic provided better shear protection for longer in extreme conditions, but doesn't "stick" as readily to metals. He also said that most mass market Semi Synthetic oils contain barely 5-10% Synthetic; just enough to satisfy the labelling criteria.

A very informative chat.

Interestingly, I spoke to one of the reps at the Penrith Gulf Western branch; which I believe is their Head office. Told him what I had, he recommended their Protecta Ultra 15w50 Semi Synthetic.

His reasoning was that the mineral oil content provides a far better "metal wetting " than a Full Synthetic, and the 30% synthetic component provided excellent shear resistance, for extended life. He did agree the Full Synthetic provided better shear protection for longer in extreme conditions, but doesn't "stick" as readily to metals. He also said that most mass market Semi Synthetic oils contain barely 5-10% Synthetic; just enough to satisfy the labelling criteria.

A very informative chat.

can you post that up in the "goods on oils" thread?

i think everyone would benefit from that

sougi s6000 is also going to be discontinued soon but there is still a full tank of it at their facility

apparently there will be a new product to replace it

only think i have against that oil is it sounds a bit heavy

can you post that up in the "goods on oils" thread?

i think everyone would benefit from that

sougi s6000 is also going to be discontinued soon but there is still a full tank of it at their facility

apparently there will be a new product to replace it

only think i have against that oil is it sounds a bit heavy

I queried that too, he has customers using it in sportsbikes: and also in his own R1, as it has no friction modifiers, no clutch issues, swears by it. Bike engines are built to easily the same tight tolerances as our engines; if not tighter. Also, if you look at the guys tracking R35 GTR's, they're using significantly heavier oils than std. In any case, I'm sure this will bring out some discussion.

I queried that too, he has customers using it in sportsbikes: and also in his own R1, as it has no friction modifiers, no clutch issues, swears by it. Bike engines are built to easily the same tight tolerances as our engines; if not tighter. Also, if you look at the guys tracking R35 GTR's, they're using significantly heavier oils than std. In any case, I'm sure this will bring out some discussion.

tracking is a lot different to road use

anyone tracking a car for any significant period will be using heavier than normal oil

the greddy oil that you can get is for track use and its a 15w50 i think

its worth a go but i use 20w50 in my 31 and its done over 200,000kms

some interior mods: FHRX in Sydney installed eclipse 7" TV with nav + headrest units. had to install kanatech dash kit to get the double din in there, well worth it though!

still trying to work out what suspension will go into the AXIS.. tried getting jap bilstein kit but not available..?? any suggestions?

Bilstein (non-adjustable anymore but is available as new via Yahoo Auctions)

Nismo S-tune

BC's

Tien

Impul

Silk Road

Cusco Zero 1 or Zero 2

RSR

HKS LS and LS+

Tanabe

etc, etc... there are too many to list. Any that fit an NM35 RS or RX will be fine for the Axis.

For a quick search of Yahoo Auctions for M35 suspension, click THIS LINK

got my new castor bushes installed finally hooray ;) now for an alignment!! :(

if I didn't have to get my attempted break-in damage fixed I totally would have got a powerFC :blink:

tracking is a lot different to road use

anyone tracking a car for any significant period will be using heavier than normal oil

the greddy oil that you can get is for track use and its a 15w50 i think

its worth a go but i use 20w50 in my 31 and its done over 200,000kms

It is, but you're still starting a car with a cold engine, which is when you need an oil to work. Any extra protection a slightly thicker oil can provide is a good thing, and I don't live in Antarctica, so on a 40 degree summer day, it might be useful.

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