Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

custom sub box fits 2 X 12 inches in between the strut towers very snugly

amp goes in spare tyre hole, its a big amp :P

oh sweet did you get it made for you?? cost much? i'm looking to get one made to fit snugly behind the seats between the struts aswell!

as my currently enclosure I bought doesnt fit properly :(

haha and who needs a spare tyre when u got BASSSSsss :)

oh sweet did you get it made for you?? cost much? i'm looking to get one made to fit snugly behind the seats between the struts aswell!

as my currently enclosure I bought doesnt fit properly :(

haha and who needs a spare tyre when u got BASSSSsss :)

Brett @ Performance Car audio:

http://www.performancecaraudio.com.au/

If we have a stagea meet your more than welcome to measure up my setup if you want, it shouldnt be too hard to make, just made out of some MDF i assume :P

and yep no need for a spare wheel when you have bass, that and it would f**k up my 4wd system if i ever put it on :P

Brett @ Performance Car audio:

http://www.performancecaraudio.com.au/

If we have a stagea meet your more than welcome to measure up my setup if you want, it shouldnt be too hard to make, just made out of some MDF i assume :P

and yep no need for a spare wheel when you have bass, that and it would f**k up my 4wd system if i ever put it on :P

hahah I call my spare wheel "teh cheese cutter"

oh stag meet i'm in on that :D (DAMN SHE'S DIRTY ATM)

haha last one I was in studio.. but that's all pretty much done now... just a few more sessions!

what i'm thinking is reboxxing my 10" type R Alpine into a enclosure that fits in there nicely, but leaves me all the room i already have for my band gear... then mounting an amp on the side of it!.. :)

nope

just need to make sure you stop in on the forums so you know when its on :)

...and make sure you don't act like an attention-grabbing idiot while out on the road. SAU has a pretty good reputation across the country, we don't need people ruining that.

:D

...and make sure you don't act like an attention-grabbing idiot while out on the road. SAU has a pretty good reputation across the country, we don't need people ruining that.

:D

+1

hey guys,

i'm pretty sure i've got a slight leak from the round black oil reservior on the right of my engine..

it has been fine after i got it serviced but its doing this grinding whining noise coming from my power steering again haha :(

what sort of oil do i need to put into it ?? :) just gonna keep topping it up til i get it fixed!

Tomas

hey guys,

i'm pretty sure i've got a slight leak from the round black oil reservior on the right of my engine..

it has been fine after i got it serviced but its doing this grinding whining noise coming from my power steering again haha :(

what sort of oil do i need to put into it ?? :) just gonna keep topping it up til i get it fixed!

Tomas

ok it should be Dextron 3 :) couldn't find the info on here for some odd reason whistling.gif probably cos i'm a n00bdomokun.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...