Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Cam,

I think I saw it online in a QLD lot.

Thanks for the pro tip. That means the pathfinder cooling mod might just work then. How far through are you guys? before/after dyno? What did a GT-8 pull NA?

Yeah, the yard brought it in by mistake and had it sitting there for nearly a year until Ben decided to comply it for them (for a fee of course)... or so the story goes.

Not finished yet but should be done this week.

Started with a new radiator (Race Radiators custom unit - no cutting required) and Nismo thermostat first then pulled a heap off the engine lol!

Currently manifolds on, turbo on, heat shielding on, condenser piping modified for intercooler piping, intercooler in, sump on and plumbed in.

Currently working on the wiring (not something I get into, I hate wiring). I should have the wiring pages and page 27 (?) translated this week so will either post it on your thread or PM it to you.

Then all I can think that is left will be the intake piping/filter, modifying his trans filler tube (rotated nearly 180degrees) modifying his Stillen exhaust to fit up to the HKS cat pipe, re-installing both coolant pipes, hooking up the radiator and making sure that the custom plenum top doesn't leak.

Oh, and the Fcon iS + sensors etc and HKS EVC6.

Dunno if the pathfinder rear coolant pipe will fit though, that bulge is considerate and may foul on the heatshield or crossover exhaust pipe (need to have another look to be sure).

GT-8 I'd estimate at ~160rwkw or so. This could be well off though as I am only going by the "V35 vs M35 fun times".

EDIT: While I think of it, did you find out if the ECU pin outs are the same on your car as a 350z/V35 or if not, what the differences are? I can't find info.

Edited by iamhe77

Nah, I haven't had time to find out.

I don't think the tuner had that closer look at the pins themselves, more the boards, with similarity to 350z's.

If it was me, i'd bet there would be something on there related to the awd system.

Couple of things - how hard were the manifolds to get on? By wiring, your talking about relocation of the wiring over the trans bellhousing, or Fcon wiring?

The only thing is an O2 sensor in the dump pipe. If you want to check out the dump pipe my mate makes I'll have one to show you from tomorrow. Make sure you get a bellmouth style as the split type that fits into the rear of the turbine housing are no good once you high flow the turbo. You need to throw it and get another.

Nah, I haven't had time to find out.

I don't think the tuner had that closer look at the pins themselves, more the boards, with similarity to 350z's.

If it was me, i'd bet there would be something on there related to the awd system.

Couple of things - how hard were the manifolds to get on? By wiring, your talking about relocation of the wiring over the trans bellhousing, or Fcon wiring?

Manifolds were not difficult at all. Had a brain fade on Sunday regarding them and didn't have a bolt lined up properly so had to rethread, but second attempt was quite easy.

One of the bolts on the driver side is restricted but small movements with a spanner and it gets done up.

By wiring I am referring to the extension of certain wires on the engine loom. Have a look in the manual, maybe 2-3 pages in and you will see the diagrams that have "SW", "O2" etc and stating how much longer you need to make each one. They are two of the pages I am having HKS translate (they won't do the whole manual).

Nothing to do with the Fcon harness... that is just a 350z item for V35.

The only thing is an O2 sensor in the dump pipe. If you want to check out the dump pipe my mate makes I'll have one to show you from tomorrow. Make sure you get a bellmouth style as the split type that fits into the rear of the turbine housing are no good once you high flow the turbo. You need to throw it and get another.

Why is the split type no good with a high flow?

I've looked into this a bit, and it seems that its all crap. Some people believe one thing, others believe something else. At the end of the day my dump is a split dump, Andrew from AM says he's done the testing and found his split dump design to be better, and since it makes the numbers to back that up I believe him.

The big problem with your style is the turbine section fits into the the turbine housing up to the turbine wheel. When you high flow the turbo it gets a larger turbine wheel and the turbine section of the dump is now smaller than the turine outlet in the turbine housing and creats both a restriction and now a leak as its no longer sealed into the housing. It also creates turbulence where the turbine and wastegate gases merge. You would now need to modify that dump or replace it and why do and pay to do something twice when it doesn't need to be. The general thought is it's better to merge the gas as soon as possible if not using an external gate set up that doesn't re enter the exhaust.

Not bagging yours, just going off mine and others experience.

Edited by slippylotion

Well calling it 'no good' is bagging them really.

Having a look around, theres no solid evidence online. It's all keyboard warriors arguing because a mate of a mate told them to buy one or the other.

My conclusion from what I've just read is that it comes down to who makes it and how it's made rather than the basis of the design. A well made, quality split design is just as good if not better with the stock turbo. When you change the turbo, sell the dump and upgrade. Not too hard.

Since I did my dump, I make an extra 30kW, turbo spools up shitloads earlier (~2.5k rpm), and I saw fuel economy gains. I really don't believe I'd get any more out of a slightly different design of dump.

No I wasnt bagging it, merely an observation. Not sure if the keyboard warrior remark is aimed at me but I'm not in that category. I have done all my own work on my own cars over the last 20 odd yrs with a lot of experimenting with different set ups. Hell, my 180sx has over 150 dyno runs at morpowa trying out different things.

All also noticed a gain in turbo response with my dump even though it still runs the standard dump back exhaust. I have changed parts over the years because I didn't buy the right one at the get go, so not too keen on buying something as simple as a dump only to sell it and loose money to then buy another that fits and waste more money.

Ryan, don't take what I've said personally, it's in no way an attack on you.

?

Well I have had both split and bellmouth on various cars;

evo6-bellmouth (246kw@ all 4)

rvr hsg-split / bellmouth (186kw @all 4)

jzx100-bellmouth

rb20 skyline-bellmouth

chrysler lancer (rwd)- 1.8l with an rx7 turbo split

Every dump I have had has made huge amounts of difference, the rvr I had, went from stock, then had a bellmouth and then I changed to a split (because the bellmouth was cheap and cracked) honestly there wasn't any noticeble differences between the two, but in comparison to a standard dump pipe......completely different car. In my experience all the turbo cars I have had, when you change from a stock dump it, makes so much difference to how the turbo spools/inceased flow/psi etc.

:cheers:

Edited by MOUTH

No I wasnt bagging it, merely an observation. Not sure if the keyboard warrior remark is aimed at me but I'm not in that category. I have done all my own work on my own cars over the last 20 odd yrs with a lot of experimenting with different set ups. Hell, my 180sx has over 150 dyno runs at morpowa trying out different things.

All also noticed a gain in turbo response with my dump even though it still runs the standard dump back exhaust. I have changed parts over the years because I didn't buy the right one at the get go, so not too keen on buying something as simple as a dump only to sell it and loose money to then buy another that fits and waste more money.

Ryan, don't take what I've said personally, it's in no way an attack on you.

?

No Paul, the keyboard warrior remark wasn't aimed at you, but do a search, and you'll find plenty...

It is unlikely now that I'll be highflowing my turbo, but I'll probably replace it instead. I'd expect to replace the dump.

I don't take it as a personal attack, but I like Andrew. He's honest, his handiwork is top notch, and I've seen and felt the results. When you say his dumps are "no good", I feel the need to defend because I've seen, known and tested. Results are all good.

As an aside, I'm now about $350 short of cracking the $1k worth of Movember donations. I know theres heaps of people asking for donations, but if you haven't donated I'd really appreciate a donation or two.

You can donate here: http://mobro.co/bigkevracer

My uncle has prostate cancer, and I lost a friend to depression, so both of these are important issues that are important to me. So I appreciate every donation that might come through!

Dunno if the pathfinder rear coolant pipe will fit though, that bulge is considerate and may foul on the heatshield or crossover exhaust pipe (need to have another look to be sure).

On closer inspection last night, I reckon it would definitely foul on at least the HKS rear heat shield and if not on the exhaust then it would only be a couple of mm from it.

No Paul, the keyboard warrior remark wasn't aimed at you, but do a search, and you'll find plenty...

It is unlikely now that I'll be highflowing my turbo, but I'll probably replace it instead. I'd expect to replace the dump.

I don't take it as a personal attack, but I like Andrew. He's honest, his handiwork is top notch, and I've seen and felt the results. When you say his dumps are "no good", I feel the need to defend because I've seen, known and tested. Results are all good.

hmm cognitive dissonance much? :rofl2:

Just stirring...hehe :ph34r:

Edited by ironpaw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...