Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After driving Aarons stock example today I realized the Stagea will never be as good on the track, plus this cost me less than a manual conversion.

Aaron's jelly, I bought mine for $7k and he had to haggle the guy down to 18 grand. I won't be selling either car, I just found my new track hack. :whistling:

After driving Aarons stock example today I realized the Stagea will never be as good on the track, plus this cost me less than a manual conversion.

Aaron's jelly, I bought mine for $7k and he had to haggle the guy down to 18 grand. I won't be selling either car, I just found my new track hack. :whistling:

Definitely a better choice than tracking the bus Scotty; keep it for high speed grocery and school runs!

FYI, I can also get Emo suspension parts... ;)

Edited by Daleo

Fkn photoshop show off Dunc :P

Nah, I don't hate em either. They have a place. That place is racetrack and rally. Not stanced out in car parks with posers. And as Dale said, on the streets they look fairly ridiculous.

Everything works there, and it's a quality tool. Can't wait to see what you do with it Scotty.

I actually don't hate them at all; responsive, punchy package, and with some simple mods, they'll crush almost anything under 100k.

My mates Emo 9 has an exhaust, filter, hard pipe kit, and a walbro pump; 250awkw. It's like an angry dog, straining at the leash; just waiting to be set loose.

Less than 3k in mods INCLUDING the tune; it's gotta be good for a low 12/high 11.

The problem lies in the tens of thousands of P platers driving kitted stocker NA Lancers, and the fact that every douche in a Crummydore wants to run you; even in the Maccas drive thru.

Driving an Evo is the automotive equivalent of running through street holding a massive red dildo above your head, yelling "LOOK AT ME! LOOK AT ME!" People are looking, but for all the wrong reasons.

I hate the rear wing, and the fact that EVERYONE knows what it is. They beg to be driven hard, but if you do; everyone thinks you're a wanker.

I much prefer to tread softly, and carry a big stick.

This - all of it!

ESPECIALLY that last line. :D

Fkn photoshop show off Dunc :P

Nah, I don't hate em either. They have a place. That place is racetrack and rally. Not stanced out in car parks with posers. And as Dale said, on the streets they look fairly ridiculous.

Everything works there, and it's a quality tool. Can't wait to see what you do with it Scotty.

i agree, im definitely not taking this down the 'hardpark' direction..

its all useless, the amount i had to do to the 200 to get it controllable again was rediculous.

I have again predicted where your car will be Aaron.

Bow down at my amazing photoshop abilities.

I can almost smell the desperation! It's just being there...

You has mad skills brah.

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...