Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so yea i researched the forums an found some threads but nothing i found what i was looking for.

Anyways i decided not to go for a Turbo ( :P ) an just get something that has potential to be done up in the future. On a few websites (retail websites for cars) ive seen that they sell some stuff for r33's but may not sell them for a 32 an ect. A example would be i was looking at prices for turbo kits for r32s, r33s, and r34's an they said that the air-con or something can not be hooked up to the turbo for the R32. Dont think that sentence made sense. ha

Anyways so yea what should i get?

An when buying one is there anything on the car i should inspect? Any common problems with skylines i should know about

Cheer guys an i really hope i didnt bring anything newbish up ^_^

^^^yep.

get a classic skyline or a classic crown or a classic mark2

has a lot more respect that a nonturbo R33 4 door.

get this..

skyline_r33_4door_sedan.JPG

or..

31566580001_large.jpg

skyline_japan_c210s.jpg

2448453608_7b81368613.jpg

another forgotten platform.. the mazda 929.

pic1_hdcentia.jpg

there are so many OTHER and BETTER cars than a nonturbo skyline brah.

commodore or falcon. you are more than likely going to want to race it in the traffic light grand prix, so you might as well get a car that is A: faster than a natro skyline, and B: when you crash it not going to damage the image of the import scene.

^^^yep.

get a classic skyline or a classic crown or a classic mark2

has a lot more respect that a nonturbo R33 4 door.

another forgotten platform.. the mazda 929.

there are so many OTHER and BETTER cars than a nonturbo skyline brah.

Hmm see those cars just dont appeal to me :S I like the mazda 929 though but i want a car that im able to do up myself . Like atm i got my pulsar an i love it but theres just nothing i can do to it.

So yeaa what about WRX's? Are they just as good cause i dont mind them (prefer a skyline, but they are alright)

commodore or falcon. you are more than likely going to want to race it in the traffic light grand prix, so you might as well get a car that is A: faster than a natro skyline, and B: when you crash it not going to damage the image of the import scene.

I dont like holden or ford. Hate them. :blink: an id prefer not to drag at the lights thanx :( i would love to do it at events though. ha

Okay so yea i researched the forums an found some threads but nothing i found what i was looking for.

Anyways i decided not to go for a Turbo ( :blink: ) an just get something that has potential to be done up in the future. On a few websites (retail websites for cars) ive seen that they sell some stuff for r33's but may not sell them for a 32 an ect. A example would be i was looking at prices for turbo kits for r32s, r33s, and r34's an they said that the air-con or something can not be hooked up to the turbo for the R32. Dont think that sentence made sense. ha

Anyways so yea what should i get?

An when buying one is there anything on the car i should inspect? Any common problems with skylines i should know about

Cheer guys an i really hope i didnt bring anything newbish up ^_^

ok for a start, what do you want from this tread?

do we go by the title of the thread or the contents? unless modified, all skylines are street legal. i dont know why you need our help for that?

im assuming that this thread is in relation to you previous thread about driving a turbo-charged vehicle while on you p-plates, which resulted in you realising that it is not a very good idea..

if you cant drive a turbo car for a while, SAVE YOUR MONEY and buy a DECENT one when you are off your P's. it is a waste of money buying a non turbo skyline, then turbo charging it later on down the track. if you hold on to you pulsar until you are legally aloud to drive a turbo skyline, think of the money you will have saved, and then you can buy a far nicer one.

ok for a start, what do you want from this tread?

do we go by the title of the thread or the contents? unless modified, all skylines are street legal. i dont know why you need our help for that?

im assuming that this thread is in relation to you previous thread about driving a turbo-charged vehicle while on you p-plates, which resulted in you realising that it is not a very good idea..

if you cant drive a turbo car for a while, SAVE YOUR MONEY and buy a DECENT one when you are off your P's. it is a waste of money buying a non turbo skyline, then turbo charging it later on down the track. if you hold on to you pulsar until you are legally aloud to drive a turbo skyline, think of the money you will have saved, and then you can buy a far nicer one.

Its not related to my old thread. What i mean is that out of all the skylines what ones are the best? Example would be is a r33 better than a r32? Or should i get a GTR V Spec?

I would save up, keep your current car until fully licensed then buy a GTR :devil:

Whats the difference between a GTR and a normal skyline? They seem the same :S

Oh god.

Dude seriously, this website is full of so much info, just search for it! Don't be lazy!

To say you don't know the difference between a GTR and a "normal" Skyline tells me you have done NO research at all.

Edited by PM-R33

The cost of adding a turbo to your non-turbed skyline will be MOAR than buying one already done. (say orig cost of non-turbed R34 skyline is $10,000, to boost it you need about $3000 of parts only..... you can buy turbed ones for $12,000 if you look hard enough, plus they will go 11billionity times better than a home-job!

Trust me Ive been down that path many times.

Best advice is drive what you have for now, then buy the turbo car once you are off your P's and have saved up a stack of cash, as well as stored away a few upgrades like aftermarket ECU and the like (stuff that can be used on any car)

If your really smart, figure out what the market value is right now for your target vehicle, and see how much they have dropped in price over the last year or 2. Then imagine the price they will be in another year!

I was looking for a S2 Stagea about 3 years ago, couldnt get one for under $17,000, now they are $11,000 to $13000 for a modified one.

If you want to know the best non turbo skyline, that will be good to modify later (and get engineered)

Look at the R30 Skyline from around 1984.... they are a classic, and will fetch good dollars in the future. (They are VERY hard to find now days.)

R33's arent worth anything these days as they are so common, and in stock form there isnt too much special about them (sorry guys)

R32's are probably better than the R33, but are getting a bit old, needing some TLC and maintenance.

R34's are a bargain, $13000 will get you a good 4 door, $15000 for a 2 door

V35... well I saw a 2 door for $18,000... nice. no turbo though... but likely dont need one!

R33's arent worth anything these days as they are so common, and in stock form there isnt too much special about them (sorry guys)

R32's are probably better than the R33, but are getting a bit old, needing some TLC and maintenance.

R34's are a bargain, $13000 will get you a good 4 door, $15000 for a 2 door

V35... well I saw a 2 door for $18,000... nice. no turbo though... but likely dont need one!

why do you say that? the rb20 is a torqueless motor. r33 is a faster car, more low end power which makes it better for everyday driving as you don't have to wring it's neck to get anywhere.

  • 3 weeks later...
Its not related to my old thread. What i mean is that out of all the skylines what ones are the best? Example would be is a r33 better than a r32? ?

You just asked about a WRX > which is a turbo car.

This one (with a 2009 Skaifey award for Best R33 GT-R) popped up yesterday > with plenty of potential to be upgraded...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...tr-t345997.html > can't get much better than that.

But then, what's your budget?

Okay so yea i researched the forums an found some threads but nothing i found what i was looking for.

Anyways i decided not to go for a Turbo ( :D ) an just get something that has potential to be done up in the future. On a few websites (retail websites for cars) ive seen that they sell some stuff for r33's but may not sell them for a 32 an ect. A example would be i was looking at prices for turbo kits for r32s, r33s, and r34's an they said that the air-con or something can not be hooked up to the turbo for the R32. Dont think that sentence made sense. ha

Anyways so yea what should i get?

An when buying one is there anything on the car i should inspect? Any common problems with skylines i should know about

Cheer guys an i really hope i didnt bring anything newbish up ^_^

If you decide not to go for a turbo, you can give some thoughts on V35 (coupe or sedan).

I have an auto 2004 coupe. I can say they are good-looking cars, not very fast but still has tremendous torque, and it's also confortable for daily driving (Until you start doing mods of course :) ).

Good luck in your choice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...