Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have just had my gts25t tuned to 190rwkw ;) Torque is amazing and power is great!

The mods are as follows:

-3" turbo back exhaust

-Walbro Gss342 fuel pump

-GFB Boot T

-Tuned Z32 ecu.

Running 10-12psi.

Stock turbo

Stock intercooler

I sent the chip away to a tuner in Auckland who did a pre-planned map for 190rwkw. I have not had it on a dyno and don't know if I will bother. I phoned a guy who ran a Dyno locally and he said that results vary greatly from each dyno. Some would read 140rwkw and another 200 rwkw. He thought with my mods I would reach 150rwkw on his dyno?! I thought it would be doing that with just a 3" exhaust.

Seemed pointless to me?

So, would it be safe to say that my car with those mods would be reaching 190rwkw? I know it feels definitely faster than stock.

Also, for curiosity sake, what cars could I match with running that kind of power?

cheers,

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344643-just-been-z32-tuned/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Take it to Nightspeed at Meremere on Friday night and find out, or even better Nizfest drags on Sunday ;)

Given you haven't had the car itself tuned, much less had it on a dyno... anyone could guess. I certainly wouldn't be going claiming a power figure as you are at the moment. I'm not really convinced its a good idea running a chip tune some random put together without knowing your car.

Trust me this guy has had heaps of experience tuning many skylines and he has done the same tune for others... so he tells me lol.

I'm not worried, if you are happy with it then godspeed. Try it out at the drags, only way to know how it goes.

Trust me this guy has had heaps of experience tuning many skylines and he has done the same tune for others... so he tells me lol.

I've heard that more times than I've had hot dinners.

Plus at the end of the day all you have is a mail order tune. It will not be as accurate as one done on the day by the tuner as "mail order" tunes are generally more conservative to makeup for the lack of onsite work the cars dont shit themselves

I belive Tricky Tune is up your way. Get your chip tuned in the car at least and on a dyno ideally. And yes take a trip to Meremere for a reality check. OOps it appears Mr Tricky Tune has taken his skills to Australia. You will have to take your car to the guy who made the chip in Auckland (was it Andy?) and get him to refine the tune in the car and then carry on to Meremere!!

I belive Tricky Tune is up your way. Get your chip tuned in the car at least and on a dyno ideally. And yes take a trip to Meremere for a reality check. OOps it appears Mr Tricky Tune has taken his skills to Australia. You will have to take your car to the guy who made the chip in Auckland (was it Andy?) and get him to refine the tune in the car and then carry on to Meremere!!

Yes it was Andy from X-tunes. From my understanding 190rwkw was a safe tune lol. I might have to travel down there to dyno it. I just don't know how worth it is since dynos don't sound very accurate.

Yes it was Andy from X-tunes. From my understanding 190rwkw was a safe tune lol. I might have to travel down there to dyno it. I just don't know how worth it is since dynos don't sound very accurate.

yeah chuck it on dyno to make sure the tune is actually safe and good (a/f ratio).. personally i dont know why u would bother with a chip-in and risk engine failure.. does x-tune offer warranty/replacement if ur engine shits itself?

Not to sound like another hater here, as all it comes down it is whether or not you're happy with the car....but I was making 190rwkw on the stock ECU with a bleed valve controlling boost to ~11psi...

i have never had one pull over 180rwkw that was std on my dyno... but dynos vary.

Yeah exactly. It pulled that number on 2 different dynos though (one DD, and the other was whatever gives the style of printout Dr Drift uses)....and in all honesty, I can't say 100% that the ECU was stock. I never remembered to get it back off the workshop that installed the ViPEC...my silly mistake.

Also, my timing may have been slightly increased due to CAS being adjusted, but i don't know.

Yes it was Andy from X-tunes. From my understanding 190rwkw was a safe tune lol. I might have to travel down there to dyno it. I just don't know how worth it is since dynos don't sound very accurate.

The dynos should have an accurate AFR plot, and before you go make sure the run will include knock sensing. IMO you really want to check those things to get some confidence that the tune IS safe. Every car is different and tuner will have made the assumption that everything on your car is working well, and that is something neither of you *know*.

You should be more interested that your motor is not going to blow up rather than if it has 11ty billion killawasps :(

The important thing is to get the ecu tuned in the car. I have had Andy tune my car on the road and on a dyno - you don't need the dyno figure although the chart is handy but Andy has all the gear to properly tune your ecu in the car. The mail order tune should be conservative to be on the safe side so a tune in the car will get the best out of your limited mods. The 1/4 mile time will mean more than a dyno figure which is really only useful for comparing the same car on the same dyno after you have done some mods.

Yes it was Andy from X-tunes. From my understanding 190rwkw was a safe tune lol. I might have to travel down there to dyno it. I just don't know how worth it is since dynos don't sound very accurate.

they are a shitload more accurate that you saying your car has 190rwkw because you 'think' it does... :P

they are a shitload more accurate that you saying your car has 190rwkw because you 'think' it does... :P

I phoned a local guy and he told me that figures ranges hugely on different dynos... to quote him he said one might say 140rwkw and another 220! Sounds like waste of time to me.

My cousin said he dynoed his subaru and it came to 380awkw. He said he doubted it made that much power and he thought it was more like that power at the flywheel.

Everything is running sweet on my car as far as I know... there is no knocking sound etc, everyhting going smooth. Doing a premapped tune as opposed to a full dyno test retune is about $300 to $900... big difference.

I phoned a local guy and he told me that figures ranges hugely on different dynos... to quote him he said one might say 140rwkw and another 220! Sounds like waste of time to me.

Well sadly, he is an idiot.

Dyno variance in most cases is +/- 15rwkw, thats a reasonable range.

80rwkw, thats just plain horse shit :P

Put it on the dyno - and not for a rwkw figure.

Use it to see the AFR's, the power/torque/boost graph and so on. Will tell you exactly how the car is performing and is a MUST for anyone modifying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...