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As above, forget your power figure and dyno the car to ensure the HEALTH of your engine.

Dont just take someones word for it, how much have you spent on your car? are you going to trust a stranger so much that you'll bet the entire value on the integrity of the tune?

If you dont do it, your just going to end up looking like someone who cares more about a possible power figure than they do the actual health of their engine.

The only reason not to get it dyno'd and the tune checked is if for some reason your horribly afraid that it wont make 190kw.

Ignorance is bliss huh?

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i have never had one pull over 180rwkw that was std on my dyno... but dynos vary.

182.7kw on my R34 on the Willall dyno with just an FMIC + 3" turbo-back exhaust (and the standard R34 factory dual-stage boost control)

Well sadly, he is an idiot.

Dyno variance in most cases is +/- 15rwkw, thats a reasonable range.

80rwkw, thats just plain horse shit :rofl:

Put it on the dyno - and not for a rwkw figure.

Use it to see the AFR's, the power/torque/boost graph and so on. Will tell you exactly how the car is performing and is a MUST for anyone modifying

I will aim to put it on a dyno since I have clearly been put wrong or misunderstood. I am learning when it comes to tuning cars and I am reasonably sure that my car is in good running order (hence being confident) yet I do want to check everything out and get a power figure :P Just getting some weird answers from different people keep confusing me lol.

I also made sure I got rid of the weak point and that is the fuel pump.

The local guy said that he thought with the mods that I have done it might reach 150rwkw on his dyno which is a load of rubbish in my opinion after reading results on this site for some time.

...who doesn't chase figures? lol.

As above, forget your power figure and dyno the car to ensure the HEALTH of your engine.

Dont just take someones word for it, how much have you spent on your car? are you going to trust a stranger so much that you'll bet the entire value on the integrity of the tune?

If you dont do it, your just going to end up looking like someone who cares more about a possible power figure than they do the actual health of their engine.

The only reason not to get it dyno'd and the tune checked is if for some reason your horribly afraid that it wont make 190kw.

Ignorance is bliss huh?

But then again putting it on a dyno and letting someone fiddle with it is taking someone's word for it just as much as someone tuning from a distance, is it not?

But then again putting it on a dyno and letting someone fiddle with it is taking someone's word for it just as much as someone tuning from a distance, is it not?

Difference is, they can see the results of each change they make to the tune when it's real-time on a dyno.

182.7kw on my R34 on the Willall dyno with just an FMIC + 3" turbo-back exhaust (and the standard R34 factory dual-stage boost control)

yeah r34 are around 175-185 leaner mixtures and more favourable timing.

  • 1 month later...

I dynoed it and found out it was pinging a little.

So I took it down to Aucks and saw the tuner who took it for a road test and found nothing wrong. Turned out that he thought the dyno shop I did it in had insufficient cooling fans and so with my stock intercooler it was overheating a little.

He reconed the car was doing about 150rwkw and suggested I would see a massive improvement by changing the air filter to a performance one. So with that he thought I would see closer to the 190rwkw mark.

I am also setting up a home made water spray kit for my stock intercooler.

cheers,

get rid of the SMIC

its pointless, with add detonation and give you a false sense of security

imho dont bother with anything more until you fit a front mounted larger core

water spray or not, it will always heat soak and offer poor performance

I did say "closer" to 190rwkw : l

Oh and it is only running 10psi when we were testing it.

In NZ you have to pay a $400 dollar bill to certify any modifications, so it is not just $300 (give or take) for a front mount, it is $700.

Edited by senilykSkylines

I hate to sound rude mate but firstly a cert is not $400 it is actually $550 and secondly who told you you needed a cert? A cert is not required for a fmic or any other basic mod... I picked my fmic up from redline performance for roughly $350 including the piping kit.

Edited by Raki_King

The local guy said that he thought with the mods that I have done it might reach 150rwkw on his dyno which is a load of rubbish in my opinion after reading results on this site for some time.

...who doesn't chase figures? lol.

Who cares about the number, it doesn't mean much at all, it is all about how well the tune is done, chasing figures is for boy racers. People who actually care about their car and motor will happily take less peak power if it means their car is tuned correctly.

But then again putting it on a dyno and letting someone fiddle with it is taking someone's word for it just as much as someone tuning from a distance, is it not?

Absolutely not! On a dyno they have knock ears and AFR guages, they can tell if your motor is pinging, even if the mail order tune is perfect (it wont be) they can't tell if you have a failing fuel pump causing it to ping its tits off and explode!

Nothing beats a dyno tune ever, even if they don't do anything the confidence knowing your car is not pinging and the AFR is safe is worth it.

It is a dyno tune or nothing imo, you should be putting it on one with knock ears and an afr guage no matter what you do, preventative care is the best way to make sure your motor lasts.

Who cares about the number, it doesn't mean much at all, it is all about how well the tune is done, chasing figures is for boy racers. People who actually care about their car and motor will happily take less peak power if it means their car is tuned correctly.

Absolutely not! On a dyno they have knock ears and AFR guages, they can tell if your motor is pinging, even if the mail order tune is perfect (it wont be) they can't tell if you have a failing fuel pump causing it to ping its tits off and explode!

Nothing beats a dyno tune ever, even if they don't do anything the confidence knowing your car is not pinging and the AFR is safe is worth it.

It is a dyno tune or nothing imo, you should be putting it on one with knock ears and an afr guage no matter what you do, preventative care is the best way to make sure your motor lasts.

Yup, you guys were right about getting it checked. I am glad I did and my mind rests easy now even though it was all good anyway (Except for a bad dyno room with like one fan on the front of the car).

The tuner told me that he did exactly the same tune on another Rb25det and got 190rwkw. 150 and 190 is a big difference. I wouldn't mind if I got 170-180, as long as the car is running good and it is not as low as 150 fro what I have done with it.

cheers

I hate to sound rude mate but firstly a cert is not $400 it is actually $550 and secondly who told you you needed a cert? A cert is not required for a fmic or any other basic mod... I picked my fmic up from redline performance for roughly $350 including the piping kit.

My tuner told me that fmic would change the weight of the car and it is things like that which would mean possibly needing to get it certified. Also I went to put a hicas lock bar in and I got told that it would cost $400 (certification fee) from mag and turbo warehouse : /

I hope you are right... I would definately consider getting one then. I'll check it out.

cheers,

Just called the certifier. He told me that any upgrades taking it past a 20% power increase would need a certification. Also a fmic does need a certification apparently.

Technically you may need a cert but if you have a current wof and rego then it is unlikely it will be picked up unless you draw attention to yourself by driving like a hoon. Wait until you have done a few more mods and upgraded your suspension and then go for the cert.

Just called the certifier. He told me that any upgrades taking it past a 20% power increase would need a certification. Also a fmic does need a certification apparently.

It shouldnt need a cert unless you completely chop apart the frontal impact steel and reinforcing otherwise it will be fine, I recently had my car certed and although it wasnt required, he checked the fmic while he was there... And it is not mentioned on my cert plate.

also a fmic is not all that heavy, so I cant imagine weight making all that much difference, Eg...A full carload of people with a full tank and a boot full of stuff would affect the handling of the car a lot more.....

It shouldnt need a cert unless you completely chop apart the frontal impact steel and reinforcing otherwise it will be fine, I recently had my car certed and although it wasnt required, he checked the fmic while he was there... And it is not mentioned on my cert plate.

also a fmic is not all that heavy, so I cant imagine weight making all that much difference, Eg...A full carload of people with a full tank and a boot full of stuff would affect the handling of the car a lot more.....

Apparently because mine has airbags it needs a cert from my understanding. A front mount will influence the frontal impact of the vehicle apparently. Out of curiosity do you have airbags?

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