Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im trying to set my ignition timing using a timing light following the instructions in the r34 workshop manual.

the engine is an rb25neo which is in an r32.

i cant set the timing any lower than 20 degrees. my cas is turned as far as it goes in the clockwise position

is 20 degrees safe to run on a stock engine? why cant i set it any lower?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345627-ignition-timing-problem/
Share on other sites

where are you hooking the timing lights induction clamp up to? the induction loop at the rear of the engine? it will be a blue or white wire. if so your timing light may be reading double. i know mine does, its just a basic cheap timing light i got from supercheap.

Edited by QWK32

From memory you have to unplug one of the plugs from the AAC valve to get the true reading. Think it's the purple plug

Thats on a 33 anyway figured 34 would be the same. Mine was the same until I unplugged that plug. Have a search it's on here somewhere

where are you hooking the timing lights induction clamp up to? the induction loop at the rear of the engine? it will be a blue or white wire. if so your timing light may be reading double. i know mine does, its just a basic cheap timing light i got from supercheap.

thanks for the reply

yer clamping it to the loop at the rear of the engine.

are you using a TFT timing light?

does it say to half it in the instruction booklet?

thanks for the reply

yer clamping it to the loop at the rear of the engine.

are you using a TFT timing light?

does it say to half it in the instruction booklet?

i just checked, it is a TFT one. i didn't read the instructions but i know it works perfectly when clamping a spark plug lead. it must be something to do with that induction loop at the back of the engine that cheap timing lights don't like. i've tested it by setting the timing the way blind_elk said, then looking at the reading using the induction loop. it was double. i haven't tested this on my RB25 but on my old RB20 which was the same, if i looped the induction loop through the clamp twice it would read correctly. weird hey :(

+1 for ignition lead between spark plug and coil. Thats how I checked mine and it worked well

and now that you mention it, it might be the TPS plug I was thinking of lol I dunno

but like i said its on here somewhere, have a search

+1 for ignition lead between spark plug and coil. Thats how I checked mine and it worked well

and now that you mention it, it might be the TPS plug I was thinking of lol I dunno

but like i said its on here somewhere, have a search

ive tried using an ignition lead i get no reading from the timing light; it doesnt flash

how did you guys make yours?

i put the sprk plug end onto the sparkplug then put a bolt into the clip on the ther end then put the bolt into the coilpack.

does it matter what my base idle speed is?

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-st...id=9371#details

is this the timing light you have?

Another technique I use is to the pull back the black conduit on the number 1 plug to expose the 3 coil plug wires and then place the timing light over all 3 wires. This should give you the correct reading.

Another technique I use is to the pull back the black conduit on the number 1 plug to expose the 3 coil plug wires and then place the timing light over all 3 wires. This should give you the correct reading.

i tried this and i get the same reading as i get from the loop at the rear.

can someone please explain exactly how they made thier ignition lead

Just use an ordinary spark plug lead. Peel back the "distributor" end fitting (shorter cap) and insert the exposed lead end into the coil so the lead contacts the coil's output pin. You don't need a bolt or anything similar.

Just use an ordinary spark plug lead. Peel back the "distributor" end fitting (shorter cap) and insert the exposed lead end into the coil so the lead contacts the coil's output pin. You don't need a bolt or anything similar.

still get no reading from the light, and the cylinder is definitely runnning. also tried the light on my friends car which has leads and it works on that.

does base idle effect what reading id be getting for timing? do i need to adjust my base idle to 650rpm before i get a true reading?

Base idle will have a minor effect on the reading you get. But I would expect only 1-2 deg variance from spec. Are you sure the lead you are using isn't broken at all?

You could also try removing the boot from the coil and connecting the plug lead to the coil.

Edited by blind_elk
Base idle will have a minor effect on the reading you get. But I would expect only 1-2 deg variance from spec. Are you sure the lead you are using isn't broken at all?

You could also try removing the boot from the coil and connecting the plug lead to the coil.

i couldnt get the ignition lead to work so i used a bit of 6mm copper building wire.

it works well, when the car is idling with the tps in i get a normal reading and am able to adjust the timing throughout the whole timing range.

but when i attempt to make a reading when the car is in base idle mode i cant get the timing any lower than 20.

how do i know if the car is in base idle mode? if im using conzult and i open the base idle adjustment screen does this put the car into base idle mode?

if not, what program can i use to do this?

Download the ecutalk program, I THINK it can set the car into base idle mode but it's been a while since I've fiddled. I did get it to work using the free version of Conzult too

Edited by mosquitocoils
Download the ecutalk program, I THINK it can set the car into base idle mode but it's been a while since I've fiddled. I did get it to work using the free version of Conzult too

ive got ecutalk, it doesnt have any options for base idle mode.

is ecutalk showing 20 degrees when in base idle mode, or just the timing light?

if on the timing marks, which timing mark are you thinking is 20 degrees? the timing marks are 5 degrees each, so 20 degrees is the 4th mark from the left.

realistically though, as long as the timing with the timing light matches that of the ecu then your timing is set right.

is ecutalk showing 20 degrees when in base idle mode, or just the timing light?

if on the timing marks, which timing mark are you thinking is 20 degrees? the timing marks are 5 degrees each, so 20 degrees is the 4th mark from the left.

realistically though, as long as the timing with the timing light matches that of the ecu then your timing is set right.

the 4th mark from the left. on conzult my timing sits on 15 degrees when at idle.

how do i get to base idle mode using my consult cable?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...