Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is something about the R32 and the RB engine that I have a soft spot for. My previous project was to build a stock looking, road register-able R32 that is perfectly legal on the street with multiple track purposes but that was stopped short by an ignorant police officer. My previous project, link below, was pulled over and defected for no good reason. The car was of course cleared of defect.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...ml&hl=9krpm

The humorous part of that whole exercise was that I was in an occupation that looked after the police and the transport government staff at the time. Knowing what the law enforcers are like, it left me with a bitter taste. I decided to scrap that project and bought this car

which has been out of action since 2005.

I am currently overhauling and converting it into a circuit car. I cant wait to revive the "Godzilla" and take it out for testing early next year.

Over the next few wks I will post pics of what has been happening to this car. I've some great friends that are helping me with this project currently :)

PS I am surprised to see only a few clips of this car in action. If anyone has any footage, please share it here. The car was capable of 8.84sec on radial for the 1/4 and 2.6sec for 0-200kph. I am sure there are a lot more video out there....hopefully.

awesome mate. it was kiers aus R32 right? fck me dea, 2.6 for 0-200? is that right? you must mean 0-100 right? either way that is bullshit fast!!!

Thanks for the offer Luke :(

Beer Baaron, it's the 8sec drag car. Keir has 2x R32 with identical exterior colour. RH9 did 9sec with aircond, all factory options + half cage and a lot more non oem parts with pump fuel. True RH9 style! The drag car has been clocked 0-200kph at 2.6sec. I am not sure what tyres were used but more than likely radial.

Mike, no worry with the pics. I am like that with camera was well lol The deal is as good as sealed anyway ;) Thanks for you help.

Edited by 9krpm
Stop saying that... It's making you look silly!

I have been wondering what happened to this car, where has it been the last 5 years? Collecting dust?

My old R32 with 2.6L and a pair of T517z clocked 3 sec up hill on the drift box. With the Willall OS Giken engine (from the drag car) and a pair of T517z it clocked 2.6sec for 0-100 on the street. I am sure with at least 30% more power, 200kg lighter, drag race tyres and the sticky drag strip, the 2.6sec for 0-200 is not that silly. Anyway, I don't have any evidence but it's been claimed.

The drag strip in Adelaide has been closed since 2005. I bought the engine from this car, when it came out for a refresh, so the car was been sitting in the shed since 2005. I then bought the car last year but have been so busy with work, still am, and have not had a chance to overhaul it until a few months ago. Drag racing is dead in SA so I am converting it into a circuit car. It won't have that much grunt for the straight line but should be a bit quicker at Mallala :(

My old R32 with 2.6L and a pair of T517z clocked 3 sec up hill on the drift box. With the Willall OS Giken engine (from the drag car) and a pair of T517z it clocked 2.6sec for 0-100 on the street. I am sure with at least 30% more power, 200kg lighter, drag race tyres and the sticky drag strip, the 2.6sec for 0-200 is not that silly. Anyway, I don't have any evidence but it's been claimed.

I was being polite when I mentioned silly...

Whoever claimed it is a moron, whoever repeats it shows their lack of knowledge!

^^^ Not a truer word has been spoken.

My previous car ran 9.5 @ 142 , with a 1.3 0-60ft..and your claiming a 2.6 sec to 200kmh ?? :(

0-100kph, maybe...0-200, not a chance!

See Exhibit A below of a well-known R32 GTR: 9.2@155MPH (250KPH)

It reaches half-track (1/8th Mile) in 6.094 [email protected].

post-4183-1291291756_thumb.jpg

Lol guys. As I mentioned before, I've never have any evidence of the 0-200kph time so I can't back it up but that was the rumor. For clarification, may b someone can dig out Reece or Mark's 1/8 speed and time. Just remember both of them use Liberty gbox so it might be different.

Anyway, that was not the buying point. I was a fan, watched and followed this car development. It has been a waste for it to sit there. When Keir discussed selling, I just couldn't let anyone else buy and butcher it up. I also like to keep it in SA. The car will run the same engine with 2 low mount turbo for the circuit. It will never be as quick in the straight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...