Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thime has come fo me to look at upgrade

i have rb25detneo in the 32

ill list the current mods

gcg 3076 the one withthe skyline rear on it

axpxi 3" exhaust

generic 3" dump

sard 650 cc injectors with hks fuel rail and hks iun tank gtr pump with sard reg

tomi b spec cams

hks 1.3mm head gasket

generic made intercooler

ok heres my thought ive live with the out of controll boost isue for a wile

so what ime thinking

garrett .82mm t2 twinscroll rear

6 boost mani to suit

wastegate what size i dont know

so new dump

and maybee one of those plazaman plenums with 80 mm tb

and wack onthe greddy cooler i have had sitting around for a wile

ps it has power fc and a avcr along with pwr radiotor lower temp thermostat etc

any sugestions much appricated

Edited by neo32
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

your injector size is wrong, 260cc is smaller than factory, double check what you have

and what on earth is a garrett T2? where did you find this from?

how much power do u want to make

First thing's first upgrade those injectors! 260cc would max out before 300hp, which is no use to a GT30 turbo. Go for 500 or 750cc depending on how much power you want to make.

Don't get a T28 flanged turbo, go T3, skylines hate small turbos. What's the deal with your turbo at the moment? Are you saying its a highflowed stock turbo with the CHRA of a GT3076? If so, just order the front and rear housings to suit, and make your own genuine GT3076r! Get the .82A/R external gate rear housing.

As for wastegate, 44mm Tial should do the trick, Tial gear is cheap and good quality from the states - take advantage of the good aussie dollar atm!

sorry about the errors i have a gt3076 gcg special with the skyline rear housing on it .63 ar was thinking twin scroll to keep it responsive and .82 to give it some top end legson current build lookin at a safe 280

but who knows after a engin rebuild 350 + but i dont want to be messing with turbo again

made the mistake last time and not doing enough research and rushe my purchase base on price and car sitting at tuners broken

thanks again

paul stop being a hater lol

Hater?

Realist mate. I ain't going to tell you that it'll make 350rwkw+ if it simply won't.

As you said you don't wanna touch the turbo again, you'll wanna work out now if you want 350rwkw+ or not, thats the point you kinda missed.

.82 rear internally gated low mount will be ok for 300rwkws. The twin scroll's available in .84, I personally experienced no difference, might change with a twin scroll manifold.

If you want to crack a good 300kw, save yourself the cash and buy the .82IW garrett housing from GCG.

Drop the car off to a good mechanic and have them fit the housing and make you a nice dump for it. Make sure you have the big can actuator in say 18psi to suit.

Cost you under 1500 with a new tune and all I will say, 300rwkw and a massive smile on your face.

For reference if you go a 6boob twin scroll you are going to put a hole in 5 grand. (2 gates + manifold 3k alone)

GL

change the turbo housing from t2 to t3 to keep Paul happy :)

Your talking about some serious mods here, I would expect min 12k to have anything actually running and the potential for a lot more $$.

I agree with GTScott, put a 0.82 garrett housing on it with the appropriate dump pipe (GCG can sell you this) and that will get you a nice 300rwkw for very little cost.

true twin scroll manifold needs 2 wastgates you need to add labour and other un forseen costs that could arise and tune will probally be a bit more, just change the rear housing and put a gate on the manifold and get a retune the stock manifolds have been proven to flow 300KW so your just spending money you dont have to.

Plazaman plenum looks great i had one ... cant use it anymore though due to motor change....really makes changing plugs so much easier :P

If you want to crack a good 300kw, save yourself the cash and buy the .82IW garrett housing from GCG.

Drop the car off to a good mechanic and have them fit the housing and make you a nice dump for it. Make sure you have the big can actuator in say 18psi to suit.

Cost you under 1500 with a new tune and all I will say, 300rwkw and a massive smile on your face.

For reference if you go a 6boob twin scroll you are going to put a hole in 5 grand. (2 gates + manifold 3k alone)

GL

I got the manifold twin scroll turbo, and twin 38mm waste gates, and lines for closer to 4k from Kyle at 6 boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...