Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Axis is going great, but just recently, I managed to open the rear glass tailgate hatch section separately to the main tailgate section quite a couple of times, but now it's stopped working.

I inspected the fuses, all are OK.

I inspected the mechanism (removed the inside of the hatch section) and moved the mechanism from the solenoid and it worked fine.

I suspect the solenoid, but would be happy to know if there is any lock or button I may have pressed in the interior which stopped it from working!

Do the solenoids have a habit of giving up the ghost, and how easy are they to repair/check (thinking of just applying 12v to see if it triggers...)

that switch is a fucntion of the BCM when then fires a relay which then fires the solenoid. so you are gong to be looking in a few spots. there is a control module in the gate that also runs most of this as well.

if its under warranty I would let someone else fiddle. if you are confident with a multimeter poke and prod the module in the back gate. you are looking for a 5v signal that drops to zero when you push that button. the gate works the same way. both of them feed a module.

that switch is a fucntion of the BCM when then fires a relay which then fires the solenoid. so you are gong to be looking in a few spots. there is a control module in the gate that also runs most of this as well.

if its under warranty I would let someone else fiddle. if you are confident with a multimeter poke and prod the module in the back gate. you are looking for a 5v signal that drops to zero when you push that button. the gate works the same way. both of them feed a module.

Chris - my car is looking to be a brick until after christmas.. can i bring my starter and then my car down soon.. or can you give us a buzz.

cheers

Keir

0466500130

Chris,

Any idea where the relay would be? I know where the fuse is, but not the relay.

Do you have a circuit Diagram?

Perhaps I should buy the translated service/car manual....

It will be behind the battery, firewall side. Take the battery cover off then slide the fuse cover up and check all the fuses.

I have the Jap cct diag open so I will see what it says...

Trunk lid opener? That fuse is in the drivers footwell, bottom right fuse, 10amp.

Mine has never worked either...

Ben from Northshore sent me a brand new release button, that I did manage to fit (only time the rear glass has ever openned), but that did not make a difference.

So it's either the control box, or the solenoid.

Have you had the rear door trim off? Its not hard to check the voltages.

Where are you located? If you can drop around I could check it out... Give me a pm.

  • 3 weeks later...

this has just happed to mine was working fine and now it just stoped and for some resaon when you lock the car its ok and then when you open it it some times open the glass bit of the boot pops one so you have to go and shut it

did you get it fixed

right so i found the fuse and its fine but here's the funny thing when you put the fuse back in it pops the boot open any ideas wot this could be ?

I stil haven't got around to fixing mine. I still have to investigate the solenoid for the glass hatch bit of the boot.

do you know were that is because mine does open but only when you pull the fuse out then put it back in, the hatch button does not work so could just be that

right so i found the fuse and its fine but here's the funny thing when you put the fuse back in it pops the boot open any ideas wot this could be ?

Sounds like the switch is stuck in. Do you have a multimeter to check its operation?

now i think about it your prob right, no multimeter how would i check scotty if i can get one

Meter on ohms, unplug the switch and put the leads on the terminals/wires. It should be open and closed circuit when you operate the switch.

You should be able to buy a cheap meter for $5 or $10 off Fleabay.

Update.

I ripped the back off again with a friend who had a multimeter.

Switch is working.

Solenoid is working, but not getting the correct signal. Fuse is OK.

We think it's the BCM or what ever the little box is in the tailgate section.

Not sure where to go from here!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...