Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Well im no stranger to car car world having owned a very tough fully built R33gtst for 4 years, a 250kw evo 7 for 3 years, a wrx and Im now in a 350z

Looking at moving back into a skyline....R34 GTR. Since the cars are 10 years old now what sort of common problems have arisen over the years to look out for. I know what to look at when buying a car in general, just after specifics on the R34 GTR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347438-common-problems-with-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

GTST- Fast, fun but all over the shop and its only a gtst

Evo- A purpose built track/street weapon from the factory..add some mods and its a seriously quick car, nice car but very purposeful

350z-Absolutely beautiful car very very nice but just not quick enough.

Hard to say which one was the best, for track/mountain dutys the evo wins hands down, for the street/cruising the 350z is very sexy and super nice, for a bit of fun the gtst was great lol

Check the front CV boots before purchasing, and also front wheel bearings.

Map sensor vacuum line from the back of the plenum goes hard and splits.

Then its the usual stuff. Signs of repairs, over-spray on things that shouldnt have paint like rubbers, splitter/diffuser/undertray. Look for differences in appearance of the clear coat to spot repairs.

Then cold compression test, check for dodgy stereo wiring, modifications to the ecu wiring and any changes in the engine bay that are other than stock. Modifications are ok if done properly, but you'll spot those that arent pretty quickly.

Having someone that already owns an R34 check it out is a good idea as well, because shopping for your dream car can be overwhelming so you can have blinders on that prevent you from seeing things that others cant.

Common problems are...pedal sticking to the floor due to adrenalin addiction

Tyre wear due to awsome handling

clutch wear due to launching..haha

seriously see if you can borrow a cheap diagnostic toll (probably only $50 or so to buy and check O2 sensors, airfuel, airflow meter volts, exhaust manifold leaks and basic stuff

common problems

a. they are too expensive

b. i dont own one

a. It's never been more affordable to own an R34 GT-R than it is now.

b. Anyone can own a gtr, it's really not that hard.

From the experience I've had, they are quite a reliable and rewarding car to own and drive, albeit a bit heavy. Every car has their inherent issues. These cars are no different.

If you can, pull off the rocker cover so at least you can check the general wear and tear. A car that's serviced with regular oil changes should have a very clean head.

Coilpacks are a common problem with most r34's. They'll just die and replace them with Splitfires or equivalent.

Check the bonnet lining. Unless it's been changed in the past, it will give you an idea of how hard of a life the car's gone through.

Check for signs of panel repairs, although it's more than likely these cars have had a bingle or two due to their age. As long as repair was done properly, there shouldn't be a problem. My advice, don't get an MP II or III. They are next to impossible to colour match. The base chromium colour alone costs several hundred bucks per liter. Then you have to add the multitude of tints to get the colour right.

Give it a good launch to check the Attesa is working properly. You can check the torque split on the MFD. A good solid launch will yield almost 50% split. If it gives you a weak reading, you know there's a problem somewhere along the system and it could be costly to rectify.

Don't rely on the kms. Chances are it's wound back. Check for wear and tear on the driver side seat bolsters, gearknob, steering wheel, pedals. That will give you an idea of the real kms travelled, unless it's been changed of course.

The diffusers, especially the front can and will cop a battering when the car is lowered. Hell, even standard height they can cop some serious damage and they cost about $1500 brand new from Nissan.

Underbody rust, another common problem with these cars. Actually all imports really.

I can go on but at least it's a start for you. I'm sure there's plenty of other, more knowledgeable people here that can chime in.

Thanks for that reply mate quite helpful. Sounds like all the common problems with skylines in general being coilpacks etc etc, im luckiy that I have had a fair bit to do with both std and modified skylines in general.

I dont think i will have any worries in looking at one now, thansk guys.

My advice, don't get an MP III. They are next to impossible to colour match. The base chromium colour alone costs several hundred bucks per liter. Then you have to add the multitude of tints to get the colour right.

Is this part of your reverse-psychology marketing ploy when you're about to sell yours Eugene?

hahaaaaa.... luv it! :nyaanyaa:

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes that's a very good one. My GTT had that problem but interestingly, I haven't seen a GTR with that rust. Might need to look harder at other gtr's.

Mine has that issue on the centre boot brake light, about the size of a match head.

It's in that awkward size range where I know its there and needs to be cut out, but is small enough that i keep forgetting about it.

Brake light at the top of the boot is prone to rust.

Quite a few Japanese owners left the water sitting in the boot brake light recess, instead of going to the trouble of mopping it up.

Oh yes, when I'm a bit lazy, it can pop out of 1st.

I thought it was just stupid me, but apparently, someone else has experienced it too.

  • 1 month later...

Mine has that issue on the centre boot brake light, about the size of a match head.

It's in that awkward size range where I know its there and needs to be cut out, but is small enough that i keep forgetting about it.

Have the exact same problem with mine on the same spot. located on the left hand corner of the back tail lights, water must just sit in their.

Have the exact same problem with mine on the same spot. located on the left hand corner of the back tail lights, water must just sit in their.

Same thing on mine. I blow the water out of there every time I wash it, fair bit sits in the recess.

Gotta fix it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...