Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys , would like some suggestions on what would be recommended to do next for my R33 GTS-T to reach or break the 330rwkw mark. Also the best value for money & power gains. I will list what mods have already been done to the car & also some pics of the engine bay ! It is currently making 280rwkw on 20psi & was only tuned bout 2 weeks ago. Have already talked to my Performance workshop where i take it to on what he suggests to do next . Would also like some imput off other skyline enthusiasts ! I want to stay with the Rb25 block , no 3 litre bottom ends.

We have been talking about replacing the standard plenum to either a Hypertune or Plazmaman plenum with same brand throttle body . Also changing exhaust manifold to inhouse custom made one & start looking into some head work. Aswell as changing from a standard cam & switching to a different Ecu which is more tune able . Thoughts & ideas would be much appreciated :rolleyes:

Mods -

  • Rb25 engine
  • 40 thou oversized Aria pistons
  • Eagle steel rods
  • APR headstuds
  • Cometic headgasket
  • HKS adjustable cam gears
  • HKS 550cc injectors
  • Garrett GT35/40R turbo
  • Standard plenum but been converted to forward facing
  • Ford XF 80mm throttle body
  • Spitfire coilpacks
  • Microtech Lt x 12s ecu
  • Turbosmart E boost 1
  • Turbosmart 48mm external wastegate
  • Turbosmart Plum back BOV
  • XTR 4 inch FMIC
  • 2 x Bosch external fuel pumps with surge tank
  • 3 inch turbo back high flow exhaust system
  • Jimberry high pressure race clutch
  • Standard cam
  • Standard head

post-77182-0-80804300-1292320011_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-81965200-1292320043_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-84684300-1292320072_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-49978200-1292320097_thumb.jpg

Power sounds low for a GT35 with 20psi! As Titan said you must have the 0.63 exhaust housing??

If you do, then put a 0.82 housing and retune done!

The intake plenum is not required. It will simplify your piping and may drop intake temps slightly but not essential. An exhaust manifold would help quite a lot above 300rwkw but I think you can get 330rwkw out of it on the standard one without any issues.

E85 is the other option too for another ~30rwkw.

  • Like 1

• Standard plenum but been converted to forward facing - issue, likely to have flow problems

• Ford XF 80mm throttle body – not required, stock is fine upto 400rwkw. Going larger just creats throttle control issues

• 3 inch turbo back high flow exhaust system - issue - you need at least 3.5"

As for the rest, 290rwkw @ 20psi from a GT35, you have a serious problem.

A GT35 will make 360-370rwkw comfortably on 20-24psi usually.

Exhaust is probably a cause.

You make no mention of what exhaust manifold either, or external gate?

It looks like a tiny rear housing from the small pics which would suggest a .63 rear, which is a bad choice for such a turbo.

So change that, along with exhaust. Decent manifold and gate and you'll be set.

That'll come at a cost of around 5k though, so its not exactly a cheap return :)

  • Like 1

As Ash has said.

If it is a .63 rear, change to a .82 housing and a 6BOOST/ETM manifold with your external gate. This should straight away see you at your power goals.

Then if you want to push it furthur, free up the exhaust gas flow with a larger exhaust and remove the chopped up plenum. As far as I am aware Hypertune don't make anything for RB25 heads, so just go the Plazmaman one.

  • Like 1

thinking... if only 330rwkw is the aim.

that's right on the new GTX3076 land!

get rid of the GT35 altogether and get some response back for a near similar peak.

man we need some real results lol.

  • Like 1

280rwkw @ 20 sounds quite low

I am running 280rwkw @ 16psi with the same turbo

what nismoid said, rear housing, exhaust, plenum could be your issues. the rest of the gear you have on there should comfortable see you in the 300rwkw zone.

I'm looking to achieve my results on 98 octane fuel , as E85 isn't yet available where i live. As far as i know the turbo housing is 0.80 for inlet & 0.82 for exhaust . The previous owner gave me a list of mods which were already done & that is what he wrote down for the turbo housings. This is my 1st import so knowledge bout these cars are not as good as the rest of u guys , so i'm still a novice with skylines. That's why i went to Performance place to get advice & suggestions on what needed to be changed with the car. I already knew i had a fair few illegal modifications , so that is what i concentrated on firstly . So my 1st visit was mostly fabrication work , a few little general tidy ups & a retune. The owner suggested next he would change the plenum( plazmaman or greedy ) , exhaust manifold ( custom made one with alot better flow ) & look at changing the Ecu. Apparently the Microtech aren't the best for street use cause the adjustments are to far apart & suggested something which u can fine tune more . He named a few brands which they do & think Vipec comes to name as one of them. That is why i wanted other skyline enthusiasts opinions , so i could get more imput from other people.

other than e85, Interesting to see you want to run 98. I'll be a loose cannon and say consistent 98 supplies can be just as tough to find in some regions as e85. I was struggling to get 95 yesterday for my f6. I'm going to say head porting, plus a valve spring upgrade. Lewis engines offers "affordable porting". I'm going with a formal flow tested port on my build.6 boost manifolds are nice.

Edited by WHITE gtt

other than e85, Interesting to see you want to run 98. I'll be a loose cannon and say consistent 98 supplies can be just as tough to find in some regions as e85. I was struggling to get 95 yesterday for my f6. I'm going to say head porting, plus a valve spring upgrade. Lewis engines offers "affordable porting". I'm going with a formal flow tested port on my build.6 boost manifolds are nice.

I was thinking bout putting it on E85 , but the closes pump station is at the Goldcoast , which is bout 1 hour 15 min drive for me. So was going to wait for a while till it comes down our way before converting over. Head work was also mentioned for better airflow , they also do that sort of work aswell or find a place in the Brisbane area which do it for them. Where do u get the 6 boost manifolds from ?

Ok if it is a .82 housing there is something definetely restricting it in making power.

I also ditched my Microtech LT12S and put in a Vipec V44; very happy with that descision (I got a good sale price for the Microtech and picked up the V44 for a great price so was a cheap upgrade) so definetely would suggest the same.

Don't bother touching the head at the moment, as that isn't where your problem lies. You could spend thousands on the head, and still net no gains in power due to the problem still being there.

Do you have a dyno graph to post up?

Ok if it is a .82 housing there is something definetely restricting it in making power.

I also ditched my Microtech LT12S and put in a Vipec V44; very happy with that descision (I got a good sale price for the Microtech and picked up the V44 for a great price so was a cheap upgrade) so definetely would suggest the same.

Don't bother touching the head at the moment, as that isn't where your problem lies. You could spend thousands on the head, and still net no gains in power due to the problem still being there.

Do you have a dyno graph to post up?

Low Boost 15psi - 250rwkw

High Boost 20psi - 280rwkw ( i reckon )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...