Kando Dynamics Turbo

[zebra]

Pete build a motor?.....yeah right haha.

[OMY31T]

ive changed tuners once again. lol, its now going to Trent @ Status on tuesday afternoon.. the original tuner increased his price by $400.... no idea why the price went up so much, but trent can do it for much cheaper lol.

Edited May 12, 2011 by OMY31T

[fatz]

probably stick in on a spare 2630 i have

[Harey]

ive changed tuners once again. lol, its now going to Trent @ Status on tuesday afternoon.. the original tuner increased his price by $400.... no idea why the price went up so much, but trent can do it for much cheaper lol.

nice work, Trent will sort you out!!

[JKR-32]

ive changed tuners once again. lol, its now going to Trent @ Status on tuesday afternoon.. the original tuner increased his price by $400.... no idea why the price went up so much, but trent can do it for much cheaper lol.

Just remembered I've been waiting to see these results. Any progress here yet?

[OMY31T]

yeah, got the car at home with me, all tuned up. i forgot to get some dyno graphs to show on here, ill have to pick them up this weekend. The car didnt get the figures i was chasing but none the less, after trent and i had a chat there is still heaps of room for improvement. It ended up making roughly 260rwkw on a hot run, and 270rwkw on a cold run @ 17psi. Taking these factors into consideration: the car is auto, and the converter is pretty spongey, so trent roughly estimated im losing about 40rwkw through the auto, im also only on bp98, if it was on E85, or an E85 mix, he said we could see around a 30rwkw gain. Then i can always take it out higher in the boost range, he suggested taking it to 19 psi, and we might see a pretty good imporvement in power and about 22psi max, but for now ive stuck with 17psi because im frying tyres already and i didnt build the car to fry tyres and go slower, i want it quick on the street. so the money i saved ill be trying to get some wider wheels for it. the limiter is also set to only 7400 rpm and it was still making plenty of power, so it could easily see power through 8000rpm, he made a pretty safe tune all round for the time being until i get a few things fixed.

so all in all, im happy, it hauls ass for an auto, and ill be making some changes and taking it back for more boost, and maybe on an e85 mix to see it past 300rwkw with he auto.

Edited May 17, 2011 by OMY31T

[battery]

what do you need to fix?

Im hoping i don't have valve spring issues...

I think thats a good result for 17psi through the auto anyway!

[OMY31T]

i need to have one stud in my head heli coiled as it was snapped and the manifold started to leak when we were doing full power runs up to 7400 because of the heat, i was hopefull it would hold out and not leak, but oh well, ill get it done in the next month or so. imalso going to look into getting a good 3800 stall converter with transbrake to pickup a bit of the power loss in the auto. another downfall, which i expected, was the pipe setup. with the i/c pipe running right past the turbo to the throttlebody, it was heating the intercooler pipe up pretty significantly, so im going to buy a turbo blanket and wrap the exhuast off the turbo to bring the temps down.

yeah i think its a good result, its a pretty lazy 260rwkw. oh and we had a drama with the oil return hahahah, it kinda started melting hahaha, i went and bough some fire proof covering for it, some special stuff thats heat and fire proof and that was sorted, we also melted the pos pressure line to the wastegate haha, had to re-route it, was just a bit to close to the manifold. i think the best news i got was the fact that the engine itself having 184,000 on it, is healthy for its age, no blow by, oil a tiny oily smell from the exhaust at around 7000 rpm.. so i think it should hold out easily at this power.

ill tell u what, the car has never sounded so smooth, it feels alot better to drive.

oh and its on boost at 3600 rpm forgot to mention that above - ill take some short vids tomorrow if i get the chance.

Edited May 17, 2011 by OMY31T

[battery]

Have you seen Roys setup? Hes done a good job with the pipe routing and also the ACL heat shield stuff is supposed to be great!

[OMY31T]

i hadnt seen that, but i have seen them done like that, i might look into doing somthing like that as ill only have to replace the 1 pipe and redo the bov, which as you know was a shit job anyway, id also beable to fit my carbon bonnet back on the car. im also considering moving the airflow meter into the intercooler piping and running 4" straight off the turbo. i should beable to cut out a bit of pipe under the passengers side and put in a couple of 2.5" to 3" joiners and place it down there.

[Torques]

On a site-note here's another Chinese turbo which is too small I think (to be of interest to RB25)

but what I find interesting is that they provide a good looking elbow with the unit ..

So if Kando could to the same with their larger water cooled T3 units that would be a further incentive:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-RB20-25-TURBOCHARGER-ELBOW-/190470136288?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c58e7a1e0

Cheers from London ...

[Harey]

i need to have one stud in my head heli coiled as it was snapped and the manifold started to leak when we were doing full power runs up to 7400 because of the heat, i was hopefull it would hold out and not leak, but oh well, ill get it done in the next month or so. imalso going to look into getting a good 3800 stall converter with transbrake to pickup a bit of the power loss in the auto. another downfall, which i expected, was the pipe setup. with the i/c pipe running right past the turbo to the throttlebody, it was heating the intercooler pipe up pretty significantly, so im going to buy a turbo blanket and wrap the exhuast off the turbo to bring the temps down.

yeah i think its a good result, its a pretty lazy 260rwkw. oh and we had a drama with the oil return hahahah, it kinda started melting hahaha, i went and bough some fire proof covering for it, some special stuff thats heat and fire proof and that was sorted, we also melted the pos pressure line to the wastegate haha, had to re-route it, was just a bit to close to the manifold. i think the best news i got was the fact that the engine itself having 184,000 on it, is healthy for its age, no blow by, oil a tiny oily smell from the exhaust at around 7000 rpm.. so i think it should hold out easily at this power.

ill tell u what, the car has never sounded so smooth, it feels alot better to drive.

oh and its on boost at 3600 rpm forgot to mention that above - ill take some short vids tomorrow if i get the chance.

A larger rpm stall converter will actually have more power loss through the auto. But yeah just by getting a good stall converter it should improve things. I used a TCE stall converter on my previous car and absolutely loved it. Was super progressive so if you are just cruising around it felt like a standard stall converter so not slipping and doing bad things but then when you mashed the pedal all hell broke loose! Instant peak torque!

What does on boost at 3600rpm mean? When is it full boost?

Yeah get some wider wheels and some KU36s and then boost it up!!

[GTScotT]

Mitch, 260 @ 17psi seems fine.

These turbos seem to come alive above 20psi, consider that Simon is making roughly 360+ on an ethanol mix and 26psi.

If the drivability is where you want it than leave it as is yet obviously dont be scared to screw in more boost as thats hardly going to kill the motor any quicker (provided its tuned right).

Glad to hear its making the right numbers for what youve got atm, and also glad to see your doing it all through a sloppy auto! Shows your setup and the new turbo are working well!

[OMY31T]

yeah, its nice to drive which is the main thing, i mean yeah i want to get more power out of it yet, but there no point in pushing it just yet to breaking point when theres other small things that need improving. As for the auto, i should make more power with a new converter, a normal loss of power through an auto is 10%, 10% of 260... 26kw.. im losing 40 atm because the converter isnt doing its job properly. anyway, we will see i guess, time to start putting up some more pennies haha.

[XRATED]

Your going to loose more through an auto than 10%... 15- 18% is more like it- as compared to a regular manual gearbox.

J.

[chocco]

By all means you have seen some decent figures 31T but reading over these issues you are to fix it seems like you where in a hurry to get a tune over fix the things that will stand in your way first.

I mean a head stud, spongey converter, i/c pipe to close to heat, vac lines, oil return lines etc.

Wouldnt it be easier to have these issues sorted and running song rather then getting a tune now then fixing all the things that you knew where/could/did fail and go back again?

Iv always stuck with measure twice cut once and dont rush things with cars.

Again thats just MY 2 cents, you will prolly take it the wrong way as most people do over the internet but Im just putting it out there.

[OMY31T]

ok well, first of the head stud isnt the issue, the turbo had come loose from the heat so it just needed to be retensioned. the setup i used for the intercooler piping is actually the exact same setup that is used by XSPOWER overseas and it does infact work, when i say it heats up, we are talking about such a minial power loss that its not that critcal. as for the heated lines, it would have happend no matter what i did, the wastegate line was just positioned wrong, no biggy we fixed it in 5 mins, and as for the oil return, trent said even IF i used a braided line, it would have still blistered because of how little room there is to run it past the maifold, it didnt melt, it was just getting to hot and instead of wasting my time on a braided setup he sent me off to buy some heat proof and fire proof covering for it and all is good. the job wasnt rushed at all, it took a good 6 weeks or more to complete, oh and the converter... there was no way of knowing if it was going to be any good until it was on the dyno, it feels fine to drive to me, but under high load it fails, its not to bad, but its definatly somthing to look at where i could make some power gains.

anyway, im not taking it the wrong way, but alot of the time, you cant pick what is going to fail, hell for all i knew i could have went in there and had a leaky FMIC...

[GTScotT]

AS POSTED IN THE ALTERNATE TD06 THREAD:

A quick post to simplify the understanding of TD06 variations.. I now fully understand the options and variations, so if anyone would like further clarification please just ask. I will copy paste the response from Eiji Takada himself (Kando Dynamic).

"Hi,

Sorry for missing this mail.

TD06SL2-20G with 10cm turbine housing is perfect for 2.2~2.8L engine.

TD06SL2 and TD06H turbine wheel is based on MHI TD06 size with different wheel spec.

Basicly STD TD06 < TD06SL2 ( 11 blade) < TD06H (12 blade)

This 11 blade TD06SL2 wheel is common used on Greddy TD06SL2-20G turbo perfect for drift as it spools very fast.

TD06SL2 turbine wheel comes with same wheel as T67 turbine wheel, but the shaft diameter is different.

T67 shaft is based on MHI TD07 shaft.

But TD06SL2 is based on TD05/TD06 shaft.

As to the TD06SH wheel, that is called by Trust, Actually it should be “TE06H” turbine wheel on MHI’s product line.

This TE06H turbine wheel comes with same wheel as TD06H, But shaft is different as TE06H is based on TD07 size.

TD06H is based on TD05/TD06 shaft as the relation between TD06SL2 vs T67 as I just mentioned above..

Regards

Eiji Takada"

I know find this and the kando dynamic thread to be the definitive resource for TD06 information.

[STATUS]

yeah, got the car at home with me, all tuned up. i forgot to get some dyno graphs to show on here, ill have to pick them up this weekend. The car didnt get the figures i was chasing but none the less, after trent and i had a chat there is still heaps of room for improvement. It ended up making roughly 260rwkw on a hot run, and 270rwkw on a cold run @ 17psi. Taking these factors into consideration: the car is auto, and the converter is pretty spongey, so trent roughly estimated im losing about 40rwkw through the auto, im also only on bp98, if it was on E85, or an E85 mix, he said we could see around a 30rwkw gain. Then i can always take it out higher in the boost range, he suggested taking it to 19 psi, and we might see a pretty good imporvement in power and about 22psi max, but for now ive stuck with 17psi because im frying tyres already and i didnt build the car to fry tyres and go slower, i want it quick on the street. so the money i saved ill be trying to get some wider wheels for it. the limiter is also set to only 7400 rpm and it was still making plenty of power, so it could easily see power through 8000rpm, he made a pretty safe tune all round for the time being until i get a few things fixed.

so all in all, im happy, it hauls ass for an auto, and ill be making some changes and taking it back for more boost, and maybe on an e85 mix to see it past 300rwkw with he auto.

ahh yeah i saw the graphs on the dyno about 30mins after you left can email if you want?

Thing has heap more in it, even as it is now its evil on tyres the power does not really portray how this thing drives... with some micky t's i would not be surprised if it pulled some VERY respectable times.... with a new converter you may even be sent home early...

[ARTZ]

I may have missed something in here but has anyone actually tried this..

Turbocharger NISSAN RB25DET TD06H 60-1 w/ 3" Cover 12cm

http://cgi.ebay.com/Turbocharger-NISSAN-RB25DET-TD06H-60-1-w-3-Cover-12cm-/120735666065?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1c680f91