Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TD06-25G is the big brother of the T67-25G

has the same comp cover and wheel with a bigger turbine

TD06-20G is smaller than a t67-25G by using the 20G comp wheel

then there is the TD06-20GL2 Which has the 20G comp and the same small turbine of the T67-25G

Hope you havent had too many beers when trying to work that out hahha

T67 is it what Simon has and no way will it fit low mount td06 is smaller

yeh I have a t67 on mine too, it goes like this in size from small to large:

td06l2-20g

td06(H,SH)-20g

t67-25g

td06-25g

Edited by battery

Well, my TD06-20G is not an L2. I had an L2 but gave it to a friend with my old manifold etc to try. There is an identical RB20 to mine running the same mani/gate and tuner - dyno but L2 and he made 0.5kw less then me on the same boost with almost the exact same response. Mine was actually a bit more responsive. So I dont think there is really a big difference between the TD06 and L2 version of the turbine. The L2 turbine is common with the T67. I am not sure about the TD06H, but i know my TD06-25G is actually a TD06SH-25G. Here are some pics of the TD06L2 vs the TD06SH

med_gallery_462_50_261066.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_26556.jpg

As you can see the TD06SH wheel is a lot bigger

If you need I can take some wheels of the T67-25G wheel on the weekend and also my TD06 wheel. My turbz are all Greddy/Trust jobbies but imagine they are all the same wheels, if not housings

Joel

Send your thanks to Roy

What is a little bigger than the td06sl2 20g and would fit low mount

The "non" L2 version might be able to flow a little more through the turbine, but as per Roys quote above there is SFA difference,

the issue with the T67 not fitting isnt the sheer size of them, but rather the much smaller turbine housing, a spacer plate could be made to suit, as the Comp cover is around GT3582 size, which does fit low mounted to a Rb25.

I would show you pics but some flamin mongrel stole my TD07 last year

isnt the problem that the stock manifold simply wont flow enough for a t67 to do its best...

Thats why i didnt bother with it..

Stao from hypergear said aftermarket manifolds reduced response and didn't increase power at all with his turbos around the 300kw mark.

maybe spend abit more and get a gt3076???

Thats what has to be weighed up, TD06 + ext gate and fabrication may cost more than an Internal gate GT3076 + dump

My case is different due to 1JZ needing a new manifold no matter what

isnt the problem that the stock manifold simply wont flow enough for a t67 to do its best...

Thats why i didnt bother with it..SL2 seemed like a better match..I can always hide a gate..

I tried to fit my t67 on the stock manifold just to see if it would fit but it was hitting engine mounts and A/C lines looked like alot of work and bordering on impossible.

Are you going to plumb the gate back into the exhaust?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...