Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If the motor is happy revving there then I dont see why not. The torque and power character of the setup would influence the load on the motor, there is no denying that. It just might be as happy spinning to 8 as a different setup would be spinning to 7.

The forces created by an identical stroke/bore motor revving to those speeds is identical if all the same parts are used, the torque is obviously different though.

I guess what I was getting at is 8.5k is getting very close to the limit where stock rod bolts etc let go if held there for extended periods of time.

Edited by Rolls

my r33 will be going back into trent(status) soon, hopefully before christmas. my t67-25g setup has been proving very good, no issues yet except for my gearbox. trent, if you read this :P the gearbox shit the tin 2 weeks after the dyno runs so im going to guess it was slipping when tuned, and also the converter is a bit spongy and needs a rebuild(checked by knox automatics). ive been told the solenoids are fkd, the clutch drum for 3rd/over drive is worn out, and the band needs replacing haha. Anyway, i have just bought myself a fully manualised ford c4 street strip box brand new from rocket to go into the car, along with a 3000 stall converter, and a b & m megashifter. i have changed i/c the pipework again since the last tune(only made 255rwkw) and planning on going 4" inlet and moving the afm into the intercooler pipe. ive also heat wrapped the exhaust, sorted out the manifold flex issue and bought a turbo blanket. hopefully this time round, upping the boost to around 20-22psi i can make the 300rwkw i was hoping for.

my r33 will be going back into trent(status) soon, hopefully before christmas. my t67-25g setup has been proving very good, no issues yet except for my gearbox. trent, if you read this :P the gearbox shit the tin 2 weeks after the dyno runs so im going to guess it was slipping when tuned, and also the converter is a bit spongy and needs a rebuild(checked by knox automatics). ive been told the solenoids are fkd, the clutch drum for 3rd/over drive is worn out, and the band needs replacing haha. Anyway, i have just bought myself a fully manualised ford c4 street strip box brand new from rocket to go into the car, along with a 3000 stall converter, and a b & m megashifter. i have changed i/c the pipework again since the last tune(only made 255rwkw) and planning on going 4" inlet and moving the afm into the intercooler pipe. ive also heat wrapped the exhaust, sorted out the manifold flex issue and bought a turbo blanket. hopefully this time round, upping the boost to around 20-22psi i can make the 300rwkw i was hoping for.

looking forward to your results.

what other mods do you have?

inj/manifold/gate/ etc.

Goodluck with the C4 man!

My brother uses one in his Sigma but its a bit rough for my liking.. Not a brand new rebuilt job just a used one with a stally and shift kit.

Personally I would have gone for a 4L60 (turbo700) but thats just because im scared of hard shifts lol.

How much did the prebuilt C4 set you back and rekon it would be any good for circuit work or drag only? Shift quality I mean.

if you look back around pages 25-30 of this thread u can see my original build. but yeah, all suporting mods, 700cc inj, walbro 255lph pump, stock intake(this is for testing atm, no-one else has done a setup with the stock plenum and this turbo as far as i know), XSpower highmount - wouldnt suggest these, on a hot run, the manifold buckled and needed extra bracing, umm power fc,3" mandrel stainless exhuast all custom made, z32 afm, blitz suspower pod, 44mm gate, turbosmart plumback bov etc etc. i might change the injectors before a re-tune aswell, they are only flowed stock injectors and i dont know how good they are.

cant say how much i paid for the gearbox ;), but you wouldnt get change from 5k, but it depends on what version you buy, there is 3 of them.

i will put it back on the dyno with the manifold its got for now, the gearbox has kinda chewed up the funds i had ready for buying engine some nice spool internal engine parts, and replacing things i had problems with haha. but i will be changing to a 6boost in future, they are proven items and worth the extra cash. the external gate im not sure what brand, i bought it from the USA for about $150 aus + post, and surpriginly, ive had no boost creep and it holds shut until right on 17 psi, so its doing its job none the less, although im taking the 17 pound spring out, and putting in a 12 psi and going to run a dual stage controller so i can turn it down on the street.

Edited by OMY31T

Running that little boost will test out the wastegate's capabilities

certainly will, wether or not i run as low as 12psi im not sure of, being 44, it should be capable of running as little as 15psi, i just dont want to be running a min of 17 all the time and up to a max of say 22, id rather wind it back to a tidy 220rwkw for day to day driving if i can.

Is that on a stock JZ zeb??

my gate came with 7 different springs rated up to 25psi..

thinking I'll just get target my boost with springs and not worry about any controller..is this a good idea??

what are the disadvantages (if any) of not running a boost controller, apart from not being adjustable on the fly...

bah,, pansy...my BW setup will have a 2 bar spring in the gate lol

whats the point of having 2 bar on the street? roads are not made for racing, nor good handling, ill keep my 300+rwkw for the strip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...