Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wonder what td06's they were on the above kit....................but found this one looks like it push out a 1000hp anyone know what td06 are these sl2's or h's

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry3929064

Edited by stocker
  • 2 weeks later...

Artz, any updates on your car getting tuned?

Just sold my twin turbo setup so will be jumping in a kando td06sl2-20g in jan. but looking forward to your tune results first as if it doesn't hit 280ish then I might have to go the 25g wheel or even t67.

Would a 38mm gate be too small for the sl2-20g?

If so, then would a 40mm or 44mm be the better choice?

44mm would be best.

I should be tuning my td06 sl2 early next week when the new shop is up and running. It has a 38mm ebay gate and manifold. Just fueled it up with some e-flex which tested at E70. So everything is almost ready. I might take it for a little drive up and down my long driveway today.

Update on my tubro and motor... Did 2 full days of track work at Track Battle in Perth

Ran 20psi and revved anywhere from 7500-8000rpm and it's still loving life!

For anyone counting I also managed a 66.7sec long track which I think is fairly respectable :)

Definitely respectable, considering the 'V8 Supercars' they offer rides in around Barbs run a 68.

*EDIT* Late reply I know, I haven't checked this thread for awhile :P

Edited by Hanaldo

I found results on a rb25 with a gtpumps sl2-20g and it only pulled around 235rwkw on 98. That's a pretty poor result tbh.

Its a lot easier to find results on SR20s, and they dont struggle to see 300kw. They are about as potent as a 3076R for power but more responsive.

The 8cm housing on an RB25 would make it fall over very quick and have limited tune resolution. 10cm would be a different case.

I have also seen TD06SL2 18g driving videos and can say they look VERY good.

FYI trust sell a TD06S-20g kit for the 1JZ with a 12cm housing.

Sorry i havent read the whole thread, just bits n pieces but cannot find the info i am looking for. I need to know if these Kandos come with a T3 flange AND internal gate with actuator, basically a hypergear/3076R equivalent which is what im lookin for as they r quite cheap compared to the Hypergear..I understand they will basically require the same amount of stuffing around as with bolting a Hypergear, correct?? Custom intake, oil/ water lines- or will the stock ones do?? I have a new JJR bellmouth dump/ front, dunno if theres an adaptor to make that fit on the Kando.

As far as i know most pple r doing the 6boost manifold n external gate but thats not what i want. Im keeping stock manifold, internally gated and low mount.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-RB20DET-RB25DET-2-4-Cover-8cm-T3-V-Band-TD06SL2-20G-/290635791774?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ab3e3d9e#ht_2625wt_1396

Would be great as a response weapon... Probably not the greatest for top end with a 8cm rear

Its a lot easier to find results on SR20s, and they dont struggle to see 300kw.

Personally I am yet to see any dyno sheet of a TD06-20G (be is TD06S or TD06L2) make +300rwkws on 98 pump fuel. I would love to see some, especially SR20 plots as those that I have found and compared to my RB20 plot have been found to be wanting....

And has anyone ran one of those internal gate housings? They look horrible for effeciency?

Thanks for the link SimonR32, thats so cheap for a kit that includes everything(dosent say wastegate included), thats half the price of a Hypergear ss series turbo which includes less. But that v band adaptor wont go on my jjr dump which has the stock bellmouth shape. Can someone also point me to a dyno chart with this turbo on a RB25?? Just wana compare the response, area under curve n power with a 3076R and hypergear

As far as i know most pple r doing the 6boost manifold n external gate but thats not what i want. Im keeping stock manifold, internally gated and low mount.

The internal gates have been proven to be junk, go read the Kando thread on nissan silvia. Some guy just recently tried the TD06SL2-20g internal gate on an sr20 and couldn't get it past 240kw due to boost control issues...

Edited by battery

Artz, any updates on your car getting tuned?

Just sold my twin turbo setup so will be jumping in a kando td06sl2-20g in jan. but looking forward to your tune results first as if it doesn't hit 280ish then I might have to go the 25g wheel or even t67.

Would a 38mm gate be too small for the sl2-20g?

If so, then would a 40mm or 44mm be the better choice?

umm no, I was waiting to get my exhaust done but i got bored and sold some stuff,

then bought some new stuff, so now Im also waiting on getting my 740 injectors flow tested (might help if I take them out of the glovebox) and also awaiting an adaptronic (Hurry up Stao) :D

Then i will be waiting on a busy tuner cause as it is i cant tune for shit...I may decide to try learn which will then take even longer..

Oh and yeah still have an exhaust to manufacture..

looks like Jez will beat me to the line...wonder if he will beat me on the dyno too, Im sure he ahs a few tricks up his sleeve that I dont.. :unsure:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...