Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hell yeah. When i drive this thing it brings a smile to my face which is why i built it. If it doesnt sound the way i want it to then its not right.

Flame on lol

Awww..... 'Yeahhhh, but race carrrr.. :blush: '

Damn i was gona go a HG next year but this thread is converting me.....aarghh right decision i hope.

Do it!!! i am, my car will be off the road for a good year to save the cash to do a turbo upgrade.

going to do it on the cheap side and hope things last and upgrade them as needed.

List so far is:

Ebay special high mount exhaust manifold.

Most likely T67 -25G turbo

44mm TIAL gate or turbosmart 38mm ultra gate

freddy inlet manifold ?? Maybe needed for highmount turbo

deatschwerks 1000cc injectors

E85 fuel as insurance on the stock engine.

everything else i have to run it but might sell the PFC and Z32AFM and buy a ECU with a MAP sensor

freddy plenum or any front facing plenum is not needed for high mount.

stick with 44mm tial gate as its proven already, no 38mm jobs so far but you never know, you may be the first to get it working and holding boost properly with the t67..

i wouldn't go ebay s/s high mount just yet, wait to see how long Jez's manifold lasts before jumping on ebay and getting one.

U dont need an inlet manifold, just shorten/ re-route ur pipes, someones done it on some thead, my shopping list for now:

Z32 -$150 and up

Siemens dekka 60lb top feed high impedance injectors-ebay only round $280, spacers and EV1 plug convertors separate

Turbosmart CompGate 40 - round $330

TD06SL2-20G 10cm kit - $750

Misc plumbing, gaskets, elbows, bits, pipes- $100..

Still comes out ok if u shop around and have a gud fabricator too..

But as of yet i can only sit n wish for another three months till i get my licence back from darlings NSW RTA..

38mm gate doesnt sound big enough? But then I dunno much about ext gate setups except that most r using 44mm so kinda surprised, as even trent said that 40mm is the min he will go

If you are running more boost you don't need it as big.

To whoevers interested, this is very cheap!

I have a tial wastegate for sale.. It is a 44mm and has a 1.1bar spring in it..

$280 posted anywhere in oz.. Cheers

Jez, what did you do with the turbo oil return? Did you use the standard rb25 one or did you use the one supplied in the kando kit?

If you are running more boost you don't need it as big.

Exactly.

So since i have a turbosmart t boost controller already and will be running say 22psi max, u guys r saying a 38mm gate will do?? Running Nistune btw

What is this? Turbo 101?

What about more boost implies a smaller gate will suffice? Remember that more boost will be more flow, more flow will mean it needs a gate that can flow it.

Just because running an undersized gate will overdrive the turbine and hold high boost while sucking at low boost doesnt mean its a good thing. Equally so running a bigger gate doesnt somehow suck at running lower boost, DOES IT? Don't be so feeble minded to think the extra flow will balance out with the added shaft speed needed for the boost, it aint that simple.

My gate cant bypass enough gas to hold steady boost. Oh yeah, duff man.

Get the f**king Tial MVR you tight asses, Im sure a $300 turbosmart progate is not genuine to begin with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...