Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock airbox could lose you 5-10kw nothing to significant, i am thinking of adding a pod out the bottom of it as well through the unused intercooler hole .But the power delivery I find is different, it comes on smoother so full boost doesn't hit quite so hard, its a little more transient.. Also Trent set the gate up to ease onto boost which smoothed it out some more.. Change this and stick a pod on and I have no doubt boost would hit like a hammer.. Depends which you prefer I guess and this is the way i wanted it

My timing belt has about 60k on it now I will do cam gears when I change it..might give the Brae manifold a go to then too..For now i just want to enjoy driving it for a while. :D

ahhhhhhh cheers for the heads up. Yours really is close to the manifold. I'm pretty sure I can get my gate up a fair bit closer to the manifold. if not whats your feeling on me replacing the 40mm pipe with say a 50mm pipe while still using a 40mm gate.

I would have thought that a 40mm gate was too small for the application. I have a 44mm one with a smaller turbo and engine and it's probably only just up to the task. I would be looking at least at a 44mm or 50/60mm plus a larger pipe feeding it as you suggested.

hey urtwhistle, FWIW my 6boost has the gate just inches off the collector and points maybe 2 or 3 degrees northward (i suspect they do that to promote flow going towards the gate).

yours is both long and looks like it doesnt point up at all, just straight down. id say work on that, but i dont feel the comp 40 will hold you back at this stage

can u fit the td05 in the stock turbo position?

and ive got one of those china split dump screamers (havnt used it yet) could i just run an internal gate td05 with this so i dont even need a wastegate?

ill re phrase that for you, the TD05 can bolt up to the stock manifold (with a small spacer) they are the same flange type (T3 open).

the existing dump will be useless regardless of what Kando option you decide on... you will need to make a new dump and if you want the best results you will also want to use an external gate.

if you are thinking you want to keep things as bolt on as possible, you should really be looking at the hypergear thread. he also gets excellent results from his turbo, and picking one of these over his is usually only an interest factor. you could get out of it a lot cheaper if you just stick to hypergear.

maybe consider sending your stock turbo to him and having it rebuilt to suit the exact power you want.

if you are thinking you want to keep things as bolt on as possible, you should really be looking at the hypergear thread. he also gets excellent results from his turbo, and picking one of these over his is usually only an interest factor. you could get out of it a lot cheaper if you just stick to hypergear.

maybe consider sending your stock turbo to him and having it rebuilt to suit the exact power you want.

I dont need it to stay stock, was just seeing what i can get away with. I don't mind going high mount if need be, ill just evaluate it when the time comes. cheers for all you're help.

:)

Nice work Artz! would be interesting to take a ride in each others cars one day.

My gate pipe comes off the 6boost and turns like 130-140 degrees, the pipe is 300-400mm long, gate sits next to the PS rack. Definitely not an ideal setup if you go off all the recommendations in here but it controls boost perfectly..

Nice work Artz! would be interesting to take a ride in each others cars one day.

My gate pipe comes off the 6boost and turns like 130-140 degrees, the pipe is 300-400mm long, gate sits next to the PS rack. Definitely not an ideal setup if you go off all the recommendations in here but it controls boost perfectly..

Who cares... Just tune your billet wheel :whistling:

Ok guys, for those that are interested I got my Kelway manifold today so here are a few pics.

He makes his own collector, he doesn't buy the pre made one.

Nice looking manifold. I wouldnt be fussed whether he makes his own collector or buys them, I just want someone to make one out of tube. Then we see how well they are fabricated and welded and it will be half the weight :)

Who cares... Just tune your billet wheel :whistling:

Nope

By tube I assume you mean the material like used in s/steel manifolds? If so I'd rather the weight of steam pipe any day for its strength and ability to hold in more heat in comparison.

Think hes more referring to the thickness??? steam pipe is forgiving cause if your fab work is second rate you can just hammer it with the die grinder a luxury you don't get when working with 1.6/2mm tube... what wall thickness are the greddy manifolds Roy?

anyone know why my idle keeps bouncing between 1500-2000 whenever i pull up at the lights :unsure:

it will settle after a bit (2-3 minutes maybe) but its got me stuffed, Trents been stuffing with it tune half the day but it still there, figure it must be something mechanical..AAC valve or a leak maybe..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...