Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah was a t28! lol

but thats my point its good to see how it ramps on/power curve with certain peoples setups etc etc etc

My cars torque was OVER NINE THOUSDANDDDDDDDD

Just wanted to belong :wave:

Hypergear has mentioned in the past that testing on port covers proved that the a minor amount of response was lost and it required more boost to make the same power.

Surge point was obviously shifted and his recommendation was to only run a surge housing when required.

Yeah i did mention maybe its just the difference between the two dyno's making them appear to be delivering differing reults.

Im not complaining in anyway, once i can get back to the dyno and put 20psi in it i should reach my goal of 400rwhp.

hmm so meth made 330 ish rwkw on 24 psi with e85 ? i got 311 on 19 with 98 would like to see number with e85 and boostin it up just for coupple power runs see see if i can get close to the number being ran on the hubs

switched over to normal .7 front housing this morning :) completey different 2 drive now, even faster spool, 1.2bar boost ( gate pressure atm ) by 4000rpm in 4th rolling at 80kmph.

330kw on pump 98 is easy done, i use to run 28psi thru a 3582r on bp98 tune before this turbo and made 480rwhp, was a very safe tune.

also realised vct wasnt switched on, got new map sent over email earlier and now vct is on, this thing is responsive :)

Edited by methz

no surge noticed yet, with anti surge housing i noticed it slightly in 3rd at low rpm ramping onto boost.. going 4 a drive tnite 2 see how surge goes, time 2 wind the boost back into it.

new cover + vct setup correctly, its like a dif setup, comes on boost so much better and harder.

Edited by methz

Just a quick question, have been reading this thread but havn't exactly found what im looking for.

Basically, im wanting to buy a TD06 20G for my R33 skyline, im not sure if i should go anti surge front housing or non anti surge? i have heard the anti surge makes less power and not as responsive etc whereas the non anti surge makes more HP and is still a proven performer if tuned right etc?

specs on car if wanted:

Stock RB25 engine

s/s highmount

38mm tial gate, 1 bar spring

740cc injectors

freddy plenum

80mmThrottle body

exhaust

greddy digital boost controller

fmic

looking forward to your replies!!

A Freddy plenum isn't really going to help much either..the stock one can handle anything a td06 20g can throw at it....probably make better torque too..also if you get the right ecu you won't need a boost controller ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...