Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With the 12cm a bit more energy was put into trying to get it to hold boost. Didn't exhaust ourselves as I dont want to spend too much $ fiddling around when the setups are going to get swapped. Main thing is we get to see the character and idea of response and numbers. But curious that it wasn't anywhere as simple as getting the other combos to hold boost.

This is similar to what I found with the 1.06 tial. Nothing in the Turbosmart instructions worked so I had to design my own setup using the 5 port. Buggered if I would be paying a workshop to diagnose all the issues I have had so far...

Anyway, good luck with the HTA, should be a good thing on the 25.

This is similar to what I found with the 1.06 tial. Nothing in the Turbosmart instructions worked so I had to design my own setup using the 5 port. Buggered if I would be paying a workshop to diagnose all the issues I have had so far...

Anyway, good luck with the HTA, should be a good thing on the 25.

This :whistling:

Well after some head scratching found a problem with the Turbosmart gate. Will be surprised if its the cause of the boost problem but either way the thing needs fixing as the bottom of the alloy housing is pissing air through the valve stem due to a failed o-ring. Seems to be made of rubber which has naturally hardened and failed. So in theory that would make the thing spike or run higher boost than expected but will see.

just got my rb25 tuned the other day with the td06sl2 10cm, greddy copy, 440cc injectors, aftermarket throttle body, custom low mount steampipe manifold, full 3 inch exhaust.

Car made 268 hp on 15 psi and it started to lean out on full throttle.. and this is my problem now D:

wasn't your tuner able to diagnose this on the dyno?

I can have a guess and say it was your............... wheelnuts? I mean it was on the dyno... why couldn't the tuner work it out? Its almost impossible to guess what did it without getting you to check nearly everything including the wheel nuts, but it would have taken said tuner under an hour MAX.

Argh this R32 seems very resistant to do what it should do. How was the 73HTA behaving in terms of spool compared to the other setups? It's a shame to hear it sounds like it might now get its chance in the sun due to external factors.

Argh this R32 seems very resistant to do what it should do. How was the 73HTA behaving in terms of spool compared to the other setups? It's a shame to hear it sounds like it might now get its chance in the sun due to external factors.

Very keen on this also :yes:

Nothing amazing. Nbew fuel system is about finished. Turbosmart parts arrive today. So hopefully over the weekedn get things sorted and get theh thing fully tuned on Monday. Only the 73HTA is already off :) I looked in the mirror and deep down inside I knew I wanted to run the TD06H-25G...ie a Man's Turbo :)

The 73HTA had near identical spool and looked as though it would tune up ok but ran out of fuel. I canned it as wanted to see how the gruntier 25G was going to go response wise with the smaller 10cm housing. Also want to make sure that I have the biggest dirtiest turbo I have on there to check the engien as there is possible there is a restriction somewhere in my setup that is capping power as nothing tried to date has allowed the thing to make the power of the RB20 :(

So need to rule out the fact that my kinder surprise engine isnt somehow a bit ordinary at making power. Its got good bits, Good compression, pressure. No blow by. Tunes up right...we did run out of fuel but it doesnt really make any more power at 20psi then it does at 15psi so ?!?!?!

^ ditto, but I can see where you are coming from. Shame about the resulting what-ifs, but if it spooled well and we know that it is only a few lb/min lower flowing than the 25G (~54lb/min vs ~58lb/min?) then it isn't a bad indicator.

Will see how the 10cm housing goes. If it is somewhere between teh 8cm and 12 cm (makes sense) than I will grab 40-40rwkws through the midrange which given the 25G wheel gives me the sort of power that I am after ...well not being able to put a 10cm housing on the 20G or 73HTA is a killer.

just got my rb25 tuned the other day with the td06sl2 10cm, greddy copy, 440cc injectors, aftermarket throttle body, custom low mount steampipe manifold, full 3 inch exhaust.

Car made 268 hp on 15 psi and it started to lean out on full throttle.. and this is my problem now D:

:blink: i made 267kws on pulp @ 15psi...you should be pissing in around 350hp atws...

You need more fuel? E85 Walbro pump, Bosch 1000's and ethanol in the tank... Win.

I think he has bigger issues at hand man...e85 is your answer to everything...:laugh:

stock GTR injectors yeah....invest in IDs...Nissan will love you :D

from my experience, unlike bigger turbos the SL2 doesn't get a huge improvement from e85 anyway...its great on Pulp too...18psi should see you around 280kw ish...

I agree with the above. The L2 20G is a fairly efficient item where it gets close to its maximum flow without the need of E85. Dont need to convert to ethanol to get the right power out of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...