Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It depends on how often and how hard the car's been driven and how much boost they run.

Those products was not developed through R&D and perfected through time, instead a copy of a matured product. just like their response to a better performing HTA item was "send one in and we make a copy." In which they are missing the foundation, that is the information of engine and turbo behavior at given condition and situations, of any turbochargers should be developed on. Just like some of their huge 700HP Precision copy compressor with TD06L2 turbines, then anti surge that compressor. Well that is just very wrong.

The most commonly seen turbochargers sent in for repair are the T67, and new billet wheeled T67 in 8 / 10cm on Rb25dets. Very few 8cm T67 in SR, and 1x TD05 16G from SR. All same problem as photo graphed earlier.

The common denominator seems to be turbo:engine match, and also compressor:turbine match.

Stao you indicated that your 360 degree thrust bearing cures the issues, but is the T67 10cm unit on RB25 in your view just a mismatch of the above factors?

The photo shown earlier is Kando's 360 degree thrust bearing setup which is again an identical copy of Greddy's large shoulder thrust collar.

The collar and bearing that I make for the L2 turbine ended is larger overall and different. By enlarging collar and improving oil delivery within can only do so far, The best solution is having matched flow between both turbo ends. A good example would be the SLSS2 turbocharger, yet running a 73mm compressor maxed out more power then the 78mm 25G, with much better response and reliability.

Ok, so I'm about to purchase a T67 from kando and have seen these comments saying there failure rate has gone up.

Can someone recommend an option I could take if I purchase one of these, such as sending it too hypergear for Stao to fix up or should I find an alternative turbo?

I really want to run one of these t67's so hopefully I can take preventative measures to stop it from failing.

Cheers guys

Ok, so I'm about to purchase a T67 from kando and have seen these comments saying there failure rate has gone up.

Can someone recommend an option I could take if I purchase one of these, such as sending it too hypergear for Stao to fix up or should I find an alternative turbo?

I really want to run one of these t67's so hopefully I can take preventative measures to stop it from failing.

Cheers guys

For the same power range I recommend our ATR43 SS2 The externally gated version is $150 more then what the T67 is, Extremely reliable with 0 failure up to date and faster response.

Or buy their new massive billet T67 , I can upgrade the rear end and make it flow about 430rwkws mark reliably.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

So had a heated discussion with kando and they sent me a brand new turbo no extra charge which is fantastic and have stated a fresh warranty

So if anyone wants a t67 non antisurge billet 10cm rear v band made 377rwkw on unopened rb25 on e85 I'm selling selling this brand new one

I get to work on them often, the shaft and bearing below came off a Kando T67 sent in last week, like I've mentioned earlier. This issue happens to T67 or those larger billet L2 based cores working with Rb25det engines on high boost. When compressor out flows turbine creating way too much back pressure.

bearings.JPG

any chance this could just be caused by incorrect oil choices ?

If it is oil related, the bush bearing would be worn before the thrust. The bushes are fine, there are no bearing take off on the shaft. This is caused by back pressure.

The 25G's wheel size is about same size as the SS4 wheel that made 435rwkws, This compressor end should have no issues making 400rwkws+ on a larger turbine.

I have another T67 sending in to be looked at next week, will post some more photos. if the customer's happy to pay for repair, I will replace the TD06L2 turbine with a SS4 turbine wheel. That will be good enough to sort out this back pressure issue and make the most of what the 25G compressor is capable of making.

ahh ok I see....I was just curious after reading a thing on low grade oils damaging thrust bearings on high HP applications..

My old turbo has ended up on an Rb20 drifter anyway...hopefully it holds up good for him and back pressure isn't an issue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...