Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've owned both. Had a C34 (s2) for 2 years and now have owned a M35 for just over 2 years. Nothing wrong with either really, so neither is a bad car or anything like that. I say that because I was perfectly happy with my C34 while I owned it. Its just that after driving an M35 I really couldn't go back. The M35 does have its flaws as well and there are 1 or 2 things I'd prefer from the C34 - eg. the cable throttle (as mentioned the M35 is drive-by-wire and the computer tends to restrict the throttle opening under 3000rpm - probably to protect the drivetrain and also give better economy).

But on the whole the M35 is a better car in almost every way. The appearance is the main differentiator between whether people prefer the M35 or C34. For someone new to stageas you may think both are a bit ugly, but in either case I say the looks do grow on you. I used to think M35's were ugly but its not until you see one "in the flesh" that you can really appreciate how nice they look. At the end of the day, its all about preference.

M35 will cost you a little more to own, but these cars are reliable enough that the extra cost of parts will rarely be felt (hopefully never). Over the 2 years I've owned mine, I've had to replace a few things, and of those, the only thing that would've been cheaper on the C34 was a wheel bearing - otherwise, its not as big a deal as everyone says. Servicing costs no different. Insurance is also not much different (for me it was the same).

Still, the C34 was a nice car too. My opinion is that if you want more of a skyline/sports feel (eg. less comfort, more aftermarket options), go the C34, but if you want a more refined and luxurious ride, look at the M35. Despite the extra refinement and luxury, the M35 is faster, and rides/handles better than the C34.

Drive both, then decide :)

How does the stock auto take to being modified..? And how weak is the rest of the driveline..?

What would need to be upgraded if someone was to drop a 500+kw 26/30 in a C34..?

Is there a bolt in cage available for a stag

I think you will find the alloy subframe is stronger and stiffer but sometimes fatigue (just like the steel ones), probably due to a design/manufacture flaw. Glad I have an AC tig handy for if mine ever develops a crack.

I would suggest driving in each before deciding.

im glad you have an AC tig too!ninja.gif

Thanks for all your replies, especially VQ25DET's very informative post.

On spec, I think the better choice would be actually to go with the M35. I saw one with EIGHT airbags compared to two in the C34, plus it has cruise control. Those two things will win the better half over, and for me, it's quicker in stock form so that's another bonus. And a recurring theme is that everyone thinks they look way better in the flesh than in photos.

I will look into it a bit more.... will need to save up for another few months to stretch the extra 3k for a decent one I think.

my biggest regret was getting a stagea without twin sunroofs

whichever one you get consider it. i went for a stock s2 over a days s1 because of power and looks, but i miss the sunroofs above anything else

my biggest regret was getting a stagea without twin sunroofs

whichever one you get consider it. i went for a stock s2 over a days s1 because of power and looks, but i miss the sunroofs above anything else

i have 2 in my m35.. just dont forget to close and lock it when you have drunk people in the back. you tend to get pulled over because they're screaming at the top of their lungs through it.

Thanks for all your replies, especially VQ25DET's very informative post.

On spec, I think the better choice would be actually to go with the M35. I saw one with EIGHT airbags compared to two in the C34, plus it has cruise control. Those two things will win the better half over, and for me, it's quicker in stock form so that's another bonus. And a recurring theme is that everyone thinks they look way better in the flesh than in photos.

I will look into it a bit more.... will need to save up for another few months to stretch the extra 3k for a decent one I think.

Just remember to factor in a couple of grand for when the turbo lets go. Regardless of whether you keep it stock or mod it, it will die.

my biggest regret was getting a stagea without twin sunroofs

+11ty. But being that there were only 2 available when I got mine (the other had cloth trim and no navi), I had no choice ;)

my biggest regret was getting a stagea without twin sunroofs

that was one of my many requirements.... I was totally devastated when I found out you can't get manual with leather though :(

I think I was quite lucky to find a nicely kitted C34 S2 Black Manual w/ twin sunrooves :D (I guess I could swap leather in if I could REALLY be bothered)

Autech S2 = No Sunroofs, No leather

Manual S2 = Sunroofs, No Leather

Auto S2= Sunroofs, Leather

performance Vs luxury I guess??

its really down to personal preference and I like the look of the kitted C34 over the M35... in all honesty, they both look pretty damn average as a stocky.

I have seen some quite nice M35's kitted up though :) but still,.. I won't go to an M35 cos I don't see the point in having a performance car in Auto :D

thats my 3$ whistling.gif

I won't go to an M35 cos I don't see the point in having a performance car in Auto :D

we dont loose boost between gears?? haha I would love it if mine came in manual too though. :miner:

Stagea a "performance car"? lol

They're a quick lunchbox, but they will never be a skyline.

performance "wagon" :) sometimes you gotta work with what you can...

I'm definitely not fitting 2 guitars, a Quad box and a Amp in a Skyline!! it barely fits in my stag ;)

Edited by atomaly

performance "wagon" :) sometimes you gotta work with what you can...

I'm definitely not fitting 2 guitars, a Quad box and a Amp in a Skyline!! it barely fits in my stag ;)

+300

im a sound engineerwhistling.gif and for our smaller gigs it definitely helps having a m35 over a skyline. EQ Racks and 24 channel mixers would tend to be a problem in a skyline lol

I have seen some quite nice M35's kitted up though :) but still,.. I won't go to an M35 cos I don't see the point in having a performance car in Auto :D

thats my 3$ whistling.gif

Well, the stag would be a second car for shopping/family/road trips/peak hour driving, so I actually prefer it to be auto. If I feel the need I still have the GTR for myself :happy:

Only reason why I wanted that engine was for overtaking power. Nothing worse than being stuck behind a slow car on a country road cuz your car isn't powerful enough to overtake before the next oncoming car. That's why I decided against a 2nd hand Nissan Patrol or a new GWM X240.

LOL no I posted a topic about this last year cuz I was getting so many questions about it. For some reason the original post is not there anymore.

It's not my ride. I believe it's a car in Malaysia with a massive wide body kit made by Monster Garage.

This is the second car I've seen the kit on. The videos of the original (grey one in my avatar pic) seem to have been taken down from youtube.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...