Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This kid is so hektik I bet he could fry the rears on a huandai excel. :worship:

PSHH you think thats all this guy can do? I heard he can do burnouts on the front wheel of his push bike. Even Chuck Norris couldn't do that

ok i'm going to do a semi sensible post, directed at a few people, but i'm too lazy to be specific in who i direct it at other than the OP.

OP, what tyre pressure are you running? if the pressure is too high mixed with poor camber then you will have terrible traction as only a small patch of rubber is actually touching the ground. get a wheel alignment done, get the camber sorted, get some new suspension (don't go stiff coilovers as this will make wheelspin worse, not better)

yes you can get camber adjustable coilovers, however generally it is only the front that is camber adjustable.

For what its worth, I lose traction @ about 4000 rpm with 230rwkw with 255/35/R18's with 140 treadwear rating.. that arent near the indicators yet.

That said they are about 3+ years old. :P

  • 2 weeks later...

looks like i came to the partay too late... ah well...

fwiw i run a 285rwkw rb25 which hits 20psi by 3400rpm. i run greddy coilovers, camber and pineapple bushes on the rear and a 1.5way locker. ( i also run the car @ 320mm)

in the dry i can plant all gears except 1st right through to my 7400 redline without a hint of wheelspin

you are running a less powerful, less responsive setup and have trouble getting traction, so what are the differences?

i run a locked diff, better tyres, less camber, better shocks, and pineapple bushes. i also have correctly matched shock/springs which i'm guessing you dont due to the comment about camber with stock shocks

fix all these and you should have no worries.

on ethanol i run 325rwkw and lose traction in second, but it's easily controlled with my right foot and dosn't bother me

also coilovers will not allow adjustment of castor or camber (with 180sx/s13 front camber adjust being an exception) for this you will need bushes or adjustable upper/lower arms

you need to get your car to a suspension workshop (not pedders)

You are an assett to SAU JJJJS.

I fixed the wheelspin with correct camber adjustment on the rears and coils.

For what its worth, I lose traction @ about 4000 rpm with 230rwkw with 255/35/R18's with 140 treadwear rating.. that arent near the indicators yet.

That said they are about 3+ years old. :P

Neg camber on rears was my demon.

Sounds as if yours could be the result of tyre hardening.

Why is it bad to lose traction anyways? Thats what happens when you have a decent amount of power, i can even lose traction with 150rwkw in the dry.

Seriously though buy decent tyres, i had ku36's on my r34 and that helped heaps with traction, before with pirellis it was a handfull even in the dry. With 'normal' street tyres you cant expect flawless acceleration especially not with over 200rwkw.

Why is it bad to lose traction anyways? Thats what happens when you have a decent amount of power, i can even lose traction with 150rwkw in the dry.

Seriously though buy decent tyres, i had ku36's on my r34 and that helped heaps with traction, before with pirellis it was a handfull even in the dry. With 'normal' street tyres you cant expect flawless acceleration especially not with over 200rwkw.

When you loose it in every gear in a straight line it can get pretty annoying.

I have floorless acceleration with 230rwkw now the camber is fixed. I run turanzas btw.

Turanzas:

Safety, comfort and performance, elegantly blended in a tyre that represents the pinnacle of driving luxury. Ideal for the city commuter or dedicated distance driver, Turanza is engineered to deliver an exceptionally smooth and quiet ride in any condition.

Turanzas:

Safety, comfort and performance, elegantly blended in a tyre that represents the pinnacle of driving luxury. Ideal for the city commuter or dedicated distance driver, Turanza is engineered to deliver an exceptionally smooth and quiet ride in any condition.

I bet it wasn't quiet when he was skidding

  • Like 1

When you loose it in every gear in a straight line it can get pretty annoying.

I have floorless acceleration with 230rwkw now the camber is fixed. I run turanzas btw.

you really lost traction in "every gear"?

3. Loosing traction in 2nd gear is normal for a modified skyline. You need to not use full throttle - that peddle is analogue, you don't have to go ALL the way like using the buttons on an xbox. This is called throttle modulation.

+1

  • 2 weeks later...

lol this just keeps geting better, but im almost out of pop corn... anyone for a top up?

SOMEONE DELETE THIS THREAD.

I APOLOGISE FOR EVER STARTING IT AND THE OTHER TERRIBLE POSTS AROUND THE SAME TIME.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...